Jump to content

next project, 16" conversion


Recommended Posts

Here is the "teaser" photoshop pic of the next project... already have the ACE stock, SAMCO grip on it, and the G2 FCG installed.

Also have the FSB removed, and the AK74 style brake welded on.

 

post-3216-1164219803_thumb.jpg

 

Now for the goodies, which my better half was kind enough to lay out and snap a couple pics of..

 

G3 sights and FBMG mags...

 

I also have a plan to install a Weaver rail on the top cover for a Kobra, IF I can get it stable enough...

 

More when it is all done.

 

post-3216-1166803582_thumb.jpg

post-3216-1166803873_thumb.jpg

Edited by texlurch
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Well, here she is. Now to get to the range, once it stops raining..

 

Upper rail is screwed to an extra piece of metal, which extends to cover the sight opening, and helps lock the top cover in place. All in all it is pretty stable. We'll see how it does at the range.

post-3216-1167955390_thumb.jpg

post-3216-1167955402_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
Nice work.

 

Thanks Ironhead!

 

I was a bit worried as to how centered the rear sight was, just didn't look quite level. Turns out it was dead nuts on.

 

Took it to the range today, the new FBMG mags functioned fine, as did the G3 and Kobra sight. For those who are worried about the top cover moving around, here is the last target with the Kobra sight on.

 

50 yds, SA surplus ammo, 4-shots fairly rapid, maybe 2 seconds between shots. Recoil is almost as mild as my G3, so the brake is working fine with the 308. The other two holes to the right were sighting in prior...

post-3216-1168365926_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

I really like the idea of the top cover mount. I understand a setscrew holds it in place when it's on the gun, but what happens when you have to take it off to clean? Do you have to re-zero your irons and your red dot everytime? My PSL makes a shitty hunting rifle cause it always takes a one-shot zero after re-mounting the scope, so you can shoot and re-zero it the day before a hunt. (if you don't use corrosive ammo!) Or you can not re-zero it and cross your fingers as you take a 200 yd shot. It's a serious pain in the ass, and I'd hate to have the same problem with my 308. How do you know it's still zero'd when you throw the top cover back on?

 

Shane

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine doesn't have a set screw, so time will tell. I have an AK with the set screw style, and it works fine with a red dot.

I wouldn't expect it to be perfect at 200, but a red dot is for closer, "larger" targets, so I think it will be fine.

The side rail mount should re-zero, if it is set tight. My 21" does.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Mine doesn't have a set screw, so time will tell. I have an AK with the set screw style, and it works fine with a red dot.

I wouldn't expect it to be perfect at 200, but a red dot is for closer, "larger" targets, so I think it will be fine.

The side rail mount should re-zero, if it is set tight. My 21" does.

 

Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. My scope will not stop on the rail fore and aft, so I have a notch that I visually line it up on, but it doesn't always work. As far as tightness goes, I have it as tight as I can have it and still be able to latch it. You have a pretty good point with it not needing to be match accuracy, but I like the idea of boar hunting with a 16" assault rifle!

 

Does anyone know of a tutorial post on this board of how to do hk sights? I couldn't find one, and "search" won't let you do two-letter words aka "hk, g3, etc.". If anyone has a link, can you send it? Thanks.

 

edit: BTW, sweet ass rifle!

Edited by shaneman153a
Link to post
Share on other sites

I couldn't find a tutorial, but I studied a few pics..

The rear is beyond simple. Get all the G3 sight parts, including the weld on base. The curve fits the top cover perfect. Center up, and weld. I cut the front of the base off, not required.

 

The front you have two options.

 

Option one, press off the FSB and gas block, slide the G3 triple frame over, reinstall gasblock and weld.

 

Option two, cut the G3 triple frame approx. in half, grind and trim to fit the gas black, and weld to the block. In order to get mine the way I wanted, I had to do some filing/relieving to the bottom of the G3 cleaning tube plug, to get it to seat all the way.

 

All the G3 parts came to $60 from RobertRTG parts.....

 

So far as the picatinny rail, I decided to add a piece of metal to the top cover; it extends all the way to the front of the opening that was covered by the stock AK rear sight, and helps to center and lock down the front of the cover. Gave a nice flat spot to mount the rail to.

Edited by texlurch
Link to post
Share on other sites
Cool, I guess that doesn't sound too tough. I wish there was an easy way to make that piece of metal you welded on hinged into the back of the RSB!

 

What part of TX are you from Texlurch?

 

You don't want to hinge it, it helps to lock the top cover down and keep it centered and repeatable.

 

I am in Houston.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. My scope will not stop on the rail fore and aft, so I have a notch that I visually line it up on, but it doesn't always work. As far as tightness goes, I have it as tight as I can have it and still be able to latch it.

edit: BTW, sweet ass rifle!

 

Sounds like you have an SVD or a SKS mount; the one that came with my 21" was a SKS, and would not lock on correctly. You can get the lower half from Kalinka...

Link to post
Share on other sites
yes, the gun has an svd/sks mount, and the scope is for that mount. Doesn't the AK mount have a stop on it?

 

Yes, it does have a stop.

 

If it is the factory Saiga rail, it should be the AK style. Which the SVD or SKS won't lock up correctly on.

Link to post
Share on other sites
yes, the gun has an svd/sks mount, and the scope is for that mount. Doesn't the AK mount have a stop on it?

 

Yes, it does have a stop.

 

If it is the factory Saiga rail, it should be the AK style. Which the SVD or SKS won't lock up correctly on.

 

This isn't on a Saiga, it's on my PSL. I'm thinking about dabbing a little bit of JB weld on there to make a stop.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Chatbox

    Load More
    You don't have permission to chat.
×
×
  • Create New...