Selector stop replacement...

[JK-47 33]

The selector stop on a normal AK looks like this: , it is in between the reciever bottom and the mag release/ trigger guard part. It is held in place by 4 rivets. On the saiga however- instead of a having that rectangular cut taken out of it, it is completely square- the presence of this extra 1mm of metal prevents the rear lug of unmodified millitary mags from locking in. This is why many conversions require you to file the rear magazine lugs. I don't plan to alter my mags, so I was looking into how to remove those rivets and replace them with somthing else, either new rivets, a weld or some screws. Found this page- has all the info on how to do it with rivets or screws: Trigger Guard

The traditional method discussed on this site is to just mill out the offending portion of the selector stop with the whole apparatus still in place and intact. I do not have a means to mill this material away except with a dremmel, and I can't imagine how to go about it accurately or neatly with just a dremel. Does anyone have experience with this process, or any recomendations about how to go about it.

[MD_Willington 11]

Easiest way to describe it is to watch this video.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YG-OndUlj28

Edited May 7, 2007 by MD_Willington

[JK-47 33]

Neat video. I like when he says, "if you're not going to wear these (saftey goggles) tunr the video off right now because you're a retard." However, I don't have a rivet jig or a 12 ton press, nor do I really have somewhere to keep a 12 ton press. I guess what I really want is advice on how to do this with screws, or advice as to why thats is bad idea.

[MD_Willington 11]

Rivets aren't that bad, we learned to set them by hand in 9th grade metal shop. I'm sure if you used screws in a couple holes while you rivet the others it will not be a problem. Just need to get it square.

[JK-47 33]

The school I went to was "progressive " enough to sell off the shop equiptment to a vocational school or somthing like that. Plenty of funding, just no respect for the mechanical arts I guess. So would I get a rivet gun, or a hammer and some sort of backing plate, or one of those modified bolt cutters I've seen on AK-builder sites and forums? I apologise If I sound totally ignorant.

[MD_Willington 11]

Well I graduated in '94, so back in '91 we did this, so the terms for the tools I cannot remember, one was similar to the block the ak builder guy uses, the other was a kind of punch that went on the end that was not mushroomed already, the other tool was a ball peen hammer, put the rivet through the holes in the materail you were going to rivet, place it the mushroomed part in the block, put the punch on the other end of the rivet, and smash the crap out of it with the hammer.

 

No fineses involved.

 

You can also get threaded inserts that are like rivets, but contain a threaded center for screws or bolts.

 

The other guys probably know a better way to do this kind of thing.

 

MD

[6500rpm 670]

Trigger guard rivit jigs are pretty easy to build, the divits for the rivit head can be made w/ a 5/16 ball end mill, or a drill bit and a little finish up work with a Dremel grinding stone. Ideally, use a press and a bucking plate. The nice thing about the jig is that you can squeeze the receiver, plate, and trigger guard together with a clamp against the jig (with the rivits in place). By doing this you don't end up with gaps between the parts. On something like the trigger guard, I don't think small gaps are detrimental, but it looks professional when things are tight.

 

"T" bars in the pic and the bucking bar is all you need. If you don't have access to a welder, they can be bolted and still work fine.

Also, watch all the vids in the Youtube tutorial....he put out 9 or so and it's probably the best thing I've ever seen to help your builds.

[MD_Willington 11]

I think his vids are pretty damn good, really shows how they can crank out millions of these rifles with some basic know how and basic tools... no wonder kids in caves can build these things.. LOL

[dyi 0]

The notch faces the trigger so the mag is still resting on the stop metal on an OEM AKM.

 

The rivets are easy so set by hand. You need some some of supporting metal/anvil under the head and the just use some bar stock on the inside of the receiver and hit with a hammer til flattened sufficiently. I have a jig similar to the one 6500 posted that works on the standard trigger guards but I reused the guards on both saigas and didn't use it.

[TheGunHustler 3]

if you want to use screws like i have done on many trigger guards. it is easey. I used 10/32 machine cap screws. I bought a 10/32 tap and tap handle and threaded the receiver. then screwed them right in with red loctight. dont over tighten or it WILL strip. if you go with the 10/32 size besure to get the cap screws not round heads. or you can use 8/32 screws and nuts. both will work. but as far as trimmileing the mag catch it is super easey. just go slow and make light passes all the way accross the tit(for lack of a better word) untill it is flat with the back of the mag opening

take care

and post pics

[Red Jacket 329]

the selector stop thickness is used to set the depth of the rear of the mag in relation to the lower rail . The metal on the stop that you're talking about being removed [if I read it right] faces to the rear not toward the magwell . I've filled 3 bound books with Saiga's I've converted and don't remember ever having to mess with selector stop thickness on a x39 . However , the maglatch is [9 out of 10] usually to long by about a 16th . .223's , setting for Bulgarian mag's normally snap right in it's proper place in the latch [require fitting is in the trunnion ears] setting for Galil mag's normally takes a bit of thinning of the stop . Notice "normally , usually , frequently , somtime" , no two Saiga's are the same , don't assume what your buddy had to do will apply to you . Will