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Trigger Guard Screws and Nuts


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For bolting the trigger guard in place, the Cross-Conn conversion website recommends 6-32x1/4" or 8-32x1/4" pan head screws and nuts. Can I find these at Home Depot or Lowe's? If not where can I find them? Also, do you bolt them with the nut on the inside or the outside of the receiver? After fitting do you need to file down the screw flat with the nut? Should I use any threadlocker?

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Yup, you can get them at any hardware store. As far as which side to put the nut, i put it on the outside so that i can trim off any excess screw. As far as threadlocker goes, i used red loctite. Make sure you're sure everything is where it needs to be before using it tho, bc once it's on it ain't coming off

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the pistol grip hides one and the other will be in/under the mag release you wont see any screw heads,I used the #6 with a allen head got mine at ace hardware,or a nut and bolt store or industrail supply store should have them

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The Cross-Conn site is rather dated and is the opinion of ONE man (iow, there is more than one way to skin a cat).

 

The use of 8x32 cap head screws works well and doesn't require any finishing (unless you just want to). Don't forget the lock washer, either.

 

Outside the trigger guard (buttstock end)

saiga556_660.JPG

 

Inside the trigger guard (buttstock end)

saiga556_659.JPG

 

He shows you how to drill a hole under the mag release assembly, but that is not necessary when converting .223 or 7.62x39 Saigas (maybe others). Just stick the trigger guard underneath the mag release tower, screw the other end down and the tension will hold it nicely in position.

Edited by nalioth
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For bolting the trigger guard in place, the Cross-Conn conversion website recommends 6-32x1/4" or 8-32x1/4" pan head screws and nuts. Can I find these at Home Depot or Lowe's? If not where can I find them? Also, do you bolt them with the nut on the inside or the outside of the receiver? After fitting do you need to file down the screw flat with the nut? Should I use any threadlocker?

 

I have my nuts on the inside ( :rolleyes: ). I installed a Red Star Arms FCG and I had to do some filing of the trigger guard nut under the mag. release because the hammer didn't clear it otherwise. I had to do a little filing of the FCG to clear the other nut.

 

So if you can install them with your nuts on the outside( :lolol: ) that might be better because as another replier pointed out they both end up hidden. I wish I had thought of the allen/cap head idea. Get stainless steel at any hardware store. 6 x 32 also works. I used 6 x 32 on one end of my trigger guard because it gave me room to center (I drilled my holes by hand (no drill press - one was not well centered).

 

I used blue threadlocker because it can be removed with tools. Using threadlocker you might not need to use a lockwasher and save the space it takes up which is the way I went.

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So if you put the nuts on the inside of the receiver you have to file the ends down to clear the FCG. Sounds like I will put the nuts on the outside for the rear trigger guard hole, since the pistol grip will cover it anyway. But what about if I wanted to secure the front trigger guard hole under the mag release. Can you easily get a 6-32/8-32 screw and/or nut fastened in that small space? Also should I use any specific type of nut or just any kind that will fit the screws I get?

Edited by SanSacto
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So if you put the nuts on the inside of the receiver you have to file the ends down to clear the FCG. Sounds like I will put the nuts on the outside for the rear trigger guard hole, since the pistol grip will cover it anyway. But what about if I wanted to secure the front trigger guard hole under the mag release. Can you easily get a 6-32/8-32 screw and/or nut fastened in that small space? Also should I use any specific type of nut or just any kind that will fit the screws I get?
1) If you don't buy 3/4" long screws, no fitting is needed. 8/32x1/4" or 8/32x1/3" should work fine.

 

Dozens of us have used these nuts and bolts (with the nuts on the inside) w/o any clearance problems.

 

As mentioned before, the trigger guard is not a load bearing part, and doesn't need to be attached at either end. Stuffing it under the mag catch assembley and attaching it at the pistol grip provides a very stable fitting. You will bend your trigger guard up purty good pulling it out (which you also would if you tried it with both ends attached, as well).

 

If you desire to attach both ends, the 8/32 screws will work fine for both ends, and the nuts can go inside the receiver (there is lots of room to work in there).

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I actually just got back from Lowe's tonight and couldn't find any screws 6-32 or 8-32 x 1/4", but I found both in 3/8" length. From what you say the 3/8" should provide plenty of room inside the receiver. I bought both the 6-32 and 8-32 x 3/8" just in case I need the smaller so compensate for being off on my hole. They have a combo round head and include nuts. I also purchased #6 and #8 lock washers. This should be what I need, right?

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I actually just got back from Lowe's tonight and couldn't find any screws 6-32 or 8-32 x 1/4", but I found both in 3/8" length. From what you say the 3/8" should provide plenty of room inside the receiver. I bought both the 6-32 and 8-32 x 3/8" just in case I need the smaller so compensate for being off on my hole. They have a combo round head and include nuts. I also purchased #6 and #8 lock washers. This should be what I need, right?
I think you're worrying about nothing. The hole you'll need will be in the proper place after you remove the factory rivets.

 

Your swag should work fine. Use the 8/32 as the shafts fill the holes in the trigger guard to a greater degree.

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I think you're worrying about nothing. The hole you'll need will be in the proper place after you remove the factory rivets.

 

Your swag should work fine. Use the 8/32 as the shafts fill the holes in the trigger guard to a greater degree.

 

I wouldn't say I am "worrying", I am just too anxious about my conversion! I won't even have the rifle in my hands until probably next month and I am killing the time until then by thinking about how exactly I am going to get the conversion done. Since I am a rookie with no metal experience under my belt I want to make sure I have the advice of you kind Saiga guys! Thanks so much everybody for the help so far, I'm sure I will have tons of more rookie questions to come.......

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Cool...then you still have time to think about using rivets instead of screws and nuts..... :smoke:

 

Hmmmm......something to look into. I remember seeing somewhere that sold an AK rivet crusher that was made from bolt cutters. Will this work? I am going to do some research on the rivet thing and what it takes.

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If you have the basic electrical crimpers that come with a connector set, The crimper has a real good bolt cutter in the handle...

I welded my trigger gaurd to the reciever with a cheap tig torch.

Rivet gun and rivets would be your cheapest and best looking configuration.

You might want to look at a 16 " barrel if you are going to put a lighter (folder) stock on for weight balance issues

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