Bonesaw 1 Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 So I just got back from my first shoot where my s12 was wearing its Ultimak rail (M-11L). As some of you know, the position of the screw hole on the gas block was made incorrectly for the newer s-12's. The only solution was to drill and tap your gun. well I didn't want to do that, so I roughed up the gas block and the underside of the ultimak with emery cloth, and slapped sone JB weld in there instead. I was told this was a really bad idea. 200 rounds later (all heavy slugs and buckshot) and everything is great. no movement at all. I love JB Weld! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gpqueen 545 Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 I would still drill and tap if it were mine. Murphy's law usually only happens at matches, not practice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
IPSC_GUY 3 Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 I would still drill and tap if it were mine. Murphy's law usually only happens at matches, not practice. HERE HERE ! ! ! Murphy scrupulously avoids my practice sessions ! ! ! Only to show up to my matches like clock work ! ! ! I hate that guy. JB weld is a very strong epoxy however I doubt it will stand up to the repeated stress of the 12 gauge for a very long time. Sucks I know. IPSC_GUY SIERRA II ALPHA Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Modiano 5 Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 my thoughts on the ultimak rail are: "i wish they didn't cost so damned much" when the jb weld eventually comes loose you should be able to find a gunsmith to drill and tap it for less than $50. might get some cold blue or something to protect the bare metal even if the rail covers the work. you can mail it to gander mountain if you need to. they're site says they'll drill and tap for a single bead for $30. http://www.gandermountain.com/gunsmithing/shotgun.asp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bonesaw 1 Posted June 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 my thoughts on the ultimak rail are: "i wish they didn't cost so damned much" when the jb weld eventually comes loose you should be able to find a gunsmith to drill and tap it for less than $50. might get some cold blue or something to protect the bare metal even if the rail covers the work. you can mail it to gander mountain if you need to. they're site says they'll drill and tap for a single bead for $30. http://www.gandermountain.com/gunsmithing/shotgun.asp gander mountain won't work on AK style guns due to corporate policy. They won't touch, transfer, or sell them either. believe me i've tried. Yeah its probably a good idea to get it drilled and tapped, but I'm just glad/amazed that it held tight during that long shooting session. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wakal 10 Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 Ah, good, I thought I just had a bad pair of rails. Drilling and tapping was easy; it took longer to cut down the bolt (and the new bolt for the dovetail; the ones supplied with the kit were carefully crafted from a lump of stale clay...but not quite as strong...) Alex Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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