BlenderWizard 12 Posted December 30, 2004 Report Share Posted December 30, 2004 (edited) I'm familiar with the conversion(or trigger relocation)of the 7.62x39 as done on this page: http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/. However, being the noob that I am, I am wondering how hard it is to move the trigger on the .308 model. Is the procedure the same? I've noticed some of you guys who have moved the trigger group on your .308 don't have the little binding posts at the back of the reciever to fill the holes. Is there a better way to do this? Thanks! Edited December 30, 2004 by BlenderWizard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
possenti 0 Posted December 30, 2004 Report Share Posted December 30, 2004 I'm not familiar with any Saigas other than the .308, but it's rumored that the .308 is the easiest to convert. I've been told there are some steps on that site that you can skip completely. Not sure what you mean about "binding posts", but I don't think the .308 has them. Maybe those are the steps you can omit? Of course, I'm assuming you intend to install an AK-type aftermarket trigger, instead of modifying the stock trigger? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brian33x51 1 Posted December 31, 2004 Report Share Posted December 31, 2004 (edited) Just did my 308 on Monday. The stock trigger is actually quite different on the 308 from the other saiga types. They don't use extra "levers" but just stick an extension onto the "trigger" portion of their FCG. It's a lot simpler than the other saiga rifles but it makes for a very strange pull. Instead of having 3 rivets to hold the trigger plate down they have front and back rivets and two tiny spot welds close to where the middle rivet was. That requires that you must drill your own rear trigger guard hole and you have to break the additional two spot welds. I first drilled through the front and back rivets and freed them up. I also drilled out and removed the trigger guard. After that I used a 3/8" drill bit and cut away as much material as I could where the two welds are, folded up the ends of the trigger plate with a screwdriver and just worked it until the welds broke. After that I used a dremel disk to grind down the welds. Additionally with the 308 the post in front of the hammer is moved back a bit, which requires that you grind down that pointy portion of the G2 hammer that sticks out the front of the pivot point. I think the whole deal took me about 5 hours or so for the 308. I did the 7.62x39 over several days so I honestly don't know how long that took. I know it was definitely much faster going with my second conversion. I'm tempted to axe the binding posts on the 7.62x39 I have and use some black plastic caps to close the holes instead. I think it would look nicer and I dont' think those binding posts really do anything. Edited December 31, 2004 by brian33x51 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stokstad 4 Posted December 31, 2004 Report Share Posted December 31, 2004 I'm tempted to axe the binding posts on the 7.62x39 I have and use some black plastic caps to close the holes instead. I think it would look nicer and I dont' think those binding posts really do anything. I believe in the original instructions given by Skeik He put the binding posts in to hold the retainer spring for the FCG pins. I think most people are using the plates from tapco or redstar arms in place of the original retainer spring. So if thats the case yes the binding posts serve no purpose except maybe structural rigidity. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlenderWizard 12 Posted December 31, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2004 So, when I get my saiga, can I cout on you guys should i need help in the conversion? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RooK 0 Posted December 31, 2004 Report Share Posted December 31, 2004 I guess you can. I posted several photos of my .308 going through the change in the .308 forum some time back. It's still not finished (just put in my order for a Tapco folder/galil forend), but the conversion work on the receiver is done. Say, anyone own a Romanian AK and can get measurements of the barrel diameter immediately forward of the lower handguard retainer? I'm needing to order one for my .308, but I need to know what retainer fits, or has the closest dimensions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlenderWizard 12 Posted December 31, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2004 Ok, I just ordered one from CDNN, and the total after the FFL transfer and everything is $290. I decided to go ahead and order one because they're not importing any (at the moment) since EAA got bought up by Remington. Now, is the conversion pretty much the same on the .308 as on the smaller calibers? Do I need a double or single hook FCG? I saw that Rook had a double hook, but which works best? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RooK 0 Posted December 31, 2004 Report Share Posted December 31, 2004 Single or double hook work, but the double requires cutting a new slot in the lower of the receiver mirroring the single hook cut. It's easily done with a carbide cutter in a dremel (my choice) or drilling the end and cutting the sides with a jig saw or dremel cutting disk. I don't think there's any benefit using one or the other, but I like the looks of the double hook. Also, buy a quality FCG: Tapco G2 or Red Star Arms. You can get the former for about $35 shipped from Scott Gulledge on AR15.com Equipment Exchange forum. That's where I ordered mine and where I just place my order for the stock and forend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlenderWizard 12 Posted December 31, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2004 Single or double hook work, but the double requires cutting a new slot in the lower of the receiver mirroring the single hook cut. It's easily done with a carbide cutter in a dremel (my choice) or drilling the end and cutting the sides with a jig saw or dremel cutting disk. I don't think there's any benefit using one or the other, but I like the looks of the double hook. Also, buy a quality FCG: Tapco G2 or Red Star Arms. You can get the former for about $35 shipped from Scott Gulledge on AR15.com Equipment Exchange forum. That's where I ordered mine and where I just place my order for the stock and forend. Anything I can get from Tapco, I will. I live only a few miles from them and can go pick the stuff up the same day. I hate to wait. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KySoldier 2 Posted December 31, 2004 Report Share Posted December 31, 2004 BlenderWizard: That's cool you live near TAPCO, I live near Centerfire. I'd get the single hook trigger, I've had no problems so far. Rook: The portion of the barrel the retainer fits on is slightly wider than the barrel itself. Here's the two measurements as best as I can tell. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2ND GUNMAN 0 Posted January 1, 2005 Report Share Posted January 1, 2005 (edited) zzz Edited January 30, 2005 by 2ND GUNMAN Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RooK 0 Posted January 1, 2005 Report Share Posted January 1, 2005 (edited) Gunman, I wasn't planning on removing the gas block for this (front sight has been removed already). I was just going to section the retainer at the top, slide it pass everything, then use a screw to pull the sections together and tighten it to the barrel. Best way I can think doing it without buying a press. Edited January 1, 2005 by RooK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2ND GUNMAN 0 Posted January 1, 2005 Report Share Posted January 1, 2005 (edited) zzz Edited January 30, 2005 by 2ND GUNMAN Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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