ernestmayhand 10 Posted October 2, 2008 Report Share Posted October 2, 2008 (edited) I'm going to be refinishing my 7.62 to match my 12. Tony converted and refinished the 12 (beautifully which goes without saying when you're talking Tromix) and I'd like to use the same color Moly Resin on my 7.62. Not sure if it's flat black or semi-gloss Moly Resin but I'm sure it's one of those two, I'm leaning towards semi-gloss because I would think flat black would be more obviously flat. Anybody know what he typically uses? And how much does it usually take to refinish one of these bad muthas? A quart? 8oz's? Pictures never do show the finish like it looks in person: Edited October 2, 2008 by ernestmayhand Quote Link to post Share on other sites
belt fed frog 56 Posted October 2, 2008 Report Share Posted October 2, 2008 it`s the semi gloss and 8 Oz will do 5-7 AK /Saigas Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ernestmayhand 10 Posted October 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2008 it`s the semi gloss and 8 Oz will do 5-7 AK /Saigas Damn I'd hate to have extra Moly Resin laying around, I'll have to buy 3-5 more Saigas I guess! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
6500rpm 670 Posted October 2, 2008 Report Share Posted October 2, 2008 I'd check with Tony (or one of his close buds on that one). If I'm not mistaken Tony's posted that he uses SOCOM (flat) black, or atleast he did. I use MolyResin almost exclusively on all my builds and the flat isn't nearly as flat as you'd think-it really depends on if you add any additional MEK, the temp your part is when sprayed, and how wet you lay it on. I had a brake that I got from Tony a few years ago and it looked like the SOCOM/Flat to me but things could have changed. The Semi has a slight metalic sheen to it that I attribute to the powdered stainless in it. As for the coverage, in real life I think your looking at 2-3 guns/8oz depending on if you blast first and how many parts you spray-I usually give 2-3 coats with extra banding on hard edges. Unless your really jonesing to get it done, I'd find out from Tony for sure as the difference is significant between the two. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ernestmayhand 10 Posted October 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2008 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aubie515 2 Posted October 3, 2008 Report Share Posted October 3, 2008 Looking at my S17 from Tony, I'd say it's the black flat. I have a bottle of the black flat and it's a perfect match. Either color will do...I'd even go as far as suggesting using KG instead of Norrells. I have used both products and like KG better because it doesn't smell as bad when you are baking it. I would also suggest using K phos prior to using the KG or Norrells. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ernestmayhand 10 Posted October 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2008 I would also suggest using K phos prior to using the KG or Norrells. What does K phos do? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rustynuts 3 Posted October 4, 2008 Report Share Posted October 4, 2008 Kind of a cold parkerizing. The phosphoric acid will microscopically etch the metal, adhere and form a great base coat for the "paint" (moly resin is technically a coating) to stick. The phos also acts like Naval Jelly and eradicates any flash rust you get after blasting and cleaning prior to spraying. Flash rust is a given here in Florida! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike12345 18 Posted October 4, 2008 Report Share Posted October 4, 2008 (edited) I'd bead blast it, heat, spray, heat. Edited October 4, 2008 by mike123456 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted October 4, 2008 Report Share Posted October 4, 2008 I'd bead blast it, heat, spray, heat. This is what Tony does. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
belt fed frog 56 Posted October 4, 2008 Report Share Posted October 4, 2008 I'd bead blast it, heat, spray, heat. same here Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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