Barrel Cutting Question

[jtf979 0]

I just completed the conversion of my Saiga-12 and I noticed that the barrel is extremely long. I bought the 22" full choke version that seems to measure 23" long. I want to cut it down to 18" and put a flash hider on the end. I also thought of cutting it a little shorter and then welding a FH in place to bring me back to a little over 18".

 

How are you guys cutting your barrels? What tools are used? (Hacksaw, pipe cutter, etc.) Any special precautions so I don't shoot my eye out?

 

Maybe Tromix and the other gunsmithing gurus could give me some tips before I screw up my baby.

Edited January 11, 2005 by jtf979

[CrazyJ 0]

I suggest leaving it at 18.2 before putting the FH on. No point giving the baby-burners an excuse to kill your wife and child or burn your house down with you in it.

[swiftvision 0]

Maybe Tromix and the other gunsmithing gurus could give me some tips before I screw up my baby.

 

 

Take it to a gun smith...........$25 well spent.

[Bvamp 604]

the best way to mark it is with a pipe cutter turned down onto the steel VERY lightly. then cut REAL carefully with a hacksaw and either grind or file the crown onto the muzzle end. I have no idea what it will do to the paint on the russian saigas, though. (if it will flake)

 

25$ is well spent at the gunshop to have it cut and crowned, however.

[CrazyJ 0]

Chopping the barrel will make you lose your choke... the patterns won't be as tight, so you'll have a shorter effective range with shot. You'll be able to use slugs, but... it's a shotgun.

Edited January 11, 2005 by CrazyJ

[Bvamp 604]

good point, J. my 19" s12 was originally made and marked a full choke, so i assume it was 22" cut at a distributer or shop or importer. my choke is now an improved cylinder, which is better than nothing, but still enough to spin slugs out the barrel.

[CrazyJ 0]

Did you add in a new choke, or was the "improved" size what was left over from the original choke?

[Bvamp 604]

it was what was left to the choke taper on the factory barrel. I had another s12 I put win chokes on then sold for an elevated price, seriously considering doing it to this gun too.

[Bvamp 604]

it was what was left to the choke taper on the factory barrel. I had another s12 I put win chokes on then sold for an elevated price, seriously considering doing it to this gun too.

[CrazyJ 0]

Hmm... how much of a difference did that make on your patterns at 20-30 yds?

[Bvamp 604]

quite a lot, if I recall. the old saiga I had was cut back to 18.25" and had screw in chokes cut into the bore. I sold that one for almost twice what I had into it, and bought the one I have now a month or two later, spent the rest on piles of ammo.I guess I should really get around to doing this one with win chokes huh....not sure how full choke would affect recoil/gas piston pressure over how it is now, but Im sure it would be noticeable with 3" buckshot out of a full choke.

[TonyRumore 1,332]

The way I cut the barrels down on the Tromix guns, is to chuck the muzzle end in the three jaw chuck, install a steady rest down stream on the bed, bearing on the barrel directly where it enters the receiver. That way the whole thing is spun straight and I just come in with a carbide cutter and part it off.

 

Of course without a lathe, that is not an option. So just hacksaw it off, and file it flat. It may not look perfect, but it will work just fine.

 

The barrel is awefully thick, and reasonably hard, to where I don't think a standard pipe cutting hand tool would handle it.

 

I plan to build some 15.5" guns with 2.5" permanent flash hiders, but I was going to forgo the conventional gas system, and use the Tromix shorty gas set-up. I am not sure you could get it to run at 15.5" with the gas port(s) in the stock position. Maybe, I am just not sure.

Edited January 11, 2005 by TonyRumore

[getitat 609]

I plan to build some 15.5" guns with 2.5" permanent flash hiders, but I was going to forgo the conventional gas system, and use the Tromix shorty gas set-up. I am not sure you could get it to run at 15.5" with the gas port(s) in the stock position. Maybe, I am just not sure.

 

Hello, Tony

 

I assume these would not require any special registration? Do you know if they functioned with the stock gas ports?

 

If I forwarded you a IZ-109 in September, or whenever you will be taking orders again, would you be able to complete it this year?

 

Thanks in advance,

Guido2 in Houston

[dinzag 31]

Mine was a 22 7/8" barrel - full choke.

 

I cut it down with an abrasive chop saw then filed smooth. Crowning tool is the best route.

Also I started with a pipe cutter, but it crumbled. So did the second one. Hard stuff.

 

The taper in the barrel pice only occupied the last 1" or so of the barrel end on mine.

[6500rpm 670]

Same here. Cut with a chop saw, got things squared up with a crowning tool (fabricated from a counter bore by Tony) in a hand drill, then used a fine cone shaped die grinder to break the sharp edge on the inside and a fine file around the outer edge.

 

Link to picture of crowning tool and S12 barrel t.a.t.

http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?automo...=si&img=464

Edited August 2, 2007 by 6500rpm