opto_isolator 3 Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 I have a few cutoff wheels (ala dremel), however in the past when I've cut plastic, the cuts usually don't turn out that nice (due to melting of the plastic). What do you use to cut the plastic that produces a clean stock finish? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wally 2 Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 the best at home way is using a mill bit 5/16 in size in a drill press,if you use a dremel without some type of guide your cuts are going to look like shit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jaywalker 1 Posted October 21, 2008 Report Share Posted October 21, 2008 You can use your cut off wheels to rough-in a cut and come back with a file and dress your surface for a perfectly smooth factory appearance. Just be certain not to let the wheel dwell and use a light touch with a semi slow speed. This way the polymer will not get to hot and melt. Draw lines where you want your final profile to be and stay on the drop side of the line by about a sixteenth of an inch. Files are underrated for this type of work. They are somewhat slow, but extremely precise and clean cutting. Sandpaper rocks too. Exactly what are you trying to do? -Just out of curiosity... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
opto_isolator 3 Posted October 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 You can use your cut off wheels to rough-in a cut and come back with a file and dress your surface for a perfectly smooth factory appearance. Just be certain not to let the wheel dwell and use a light touch with a semi slow speed. This way the polymer will not get to hot and melt. Draw lines where you want your final profile to be and stay on the drop side of the line by about a sixteenth of an inch. Files are underrated for this type of work. They are somewhat slow, but extremely precise and clean cutting. Sandpaper rocks too. Exactly what are you trying to do? -Just out of curiosity... Just installed an ultimak, and need to mod the front forearm for it to fit. I plan on getting a different one eventually... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Thor's Hammer 33 Posted October 22, 2008 Report Share Posted October 22, 2008 Gilbertsguns.com is showing Surefire tri-rails as "in stock" today. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snooter 6 Posted October 26, 2008 Report Share Posted October 26, 2008 Gilbertsguns.com is showing Surefire tri-rails as "in stock" today. i used a 3/16 end mill..in my opinion anything bigger is well just too big.....it helps to have an extra set of hands to hold the piece down in the vice...i did use rubber to help hold the piece but the extra hands do help...i set up a stop guide and measured from the flat end over 8inches divided in half and made one inch 3/16 slots (i evenly spaced half inch either side of the 4 inch mark)....kinda sucks flipping the forearm over (remember to layout the other side from the same end) but if you measure good with good layout it comes out looking great..ive seen people want 35 bux to slot the forearm..took me 10minutes and looks great...next step is i ordered a convential stock from the person who sales wood stocks on this site....going to shape up that stock and add a hogue rubber butt pad....then buy a buffer...those 2 fixes should take no more then maybe a couple of hours...then i am going to polish the bolt carrier assembly to help eliminate jams...then i am going to add a tritium front shotgun sight by eliminting that crappy front sight..it would be easier for me to have a press fit front tritium sight but ive been unable to locate one...arbor press make short work of that but looks like i have to tap a hole...final step is camo painting the thing myself...down the road may move trigger but i am not conveived this gun needs a pistol grip...PG look cool and all but this is just a shotgun..oh well thats my preference just like chunky blondes..overall the saiga 12 is my first commie bloc shotgun, offers terrfifc value and the coolness factor is tops....but it is no where near my super 90's.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brd 1 Posted October 29, 2008 Report Share Posted October 29, 2008 (edited) Thanx a bunch guys!I see that I can get the NATO length in 2 different styles. AK-020BUSM AK-020BUS The decisions never stop.... Only one of those fits the Saiga, the 020BUS. The other one ending in M is for milled receivers. I didn't check, but I know how K-var numbers there stuff. I layed out where I wanted the slots ,then I center punched the end of each hole.Then I drilled a pilot hole using my air drill.Then enlarged the holes with my final bit.Then connected the holes with a cut off wheel on my dremel.You will need to clean the cut off disk well after the 2nd hole and then continually till done.Go on medium to slow speed and move the disk from one end of the hole to the other slowly.Then to clean it all up I put a sanding wheel on the dremmel drum attachment and sunk this in to the middle of the slot and then ran it back and forth .Consequently the slots are the same size as the sand drum..Sometime in the near future ,when I fell like it ill sand the slots out with finer paper to get the gloss back.May even try a polishing system on the dremel. Edited October 29, 2008 by brd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FenderFreek 0 Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 Thanx a bunch guys!I see that I can get the NATO length in 2 different styles. AK-020BUSM AK-020BUS The decisions never stop.... Only one of those fits the Saiga, the 020BUS. The other one ending in M is for milled receivers. I didn't check, but I know how K-var numbers there stuff. I layed out where I wanted the slots ,then I center punched the end of each hole.Then I drilled a pilot hole using my air drill.Then enlarged the holes with my final bit.Then connected the holes with a cut off wheel on my dremel.You will need to clean the cut off disk well after the 2nd hole and then continually till done.Go on medium to slow speed and move the disk from one end of the hole to the other slowly.Then to clean it all up I put a sanding wheel on the dremmel drum attachment and sunk this in to the middle of the slot and then ran it back and forth .Consequently the slots are the same size as the sand drum..Sometime in the near future ,when I fell like it ill sand the slots out with finer paper to get the gloss back.May even try a polishing system on the dremel. I used the same technique on my 7.62 HG, and it came out okay. From a distance it looks fine, but when you get up close to it it's more obvious that they aren't perfect. I may try it again with an endmill and a jig on my S12 HG. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nailbomb 10,221 Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 When i choped down my surefire I used a 4 1/2" cutting wheel, went to a sanding disk, and finished it up with a belt sander. I wasn't doing anything as small as you though, but just going to show that you can get good results by cutting(melting) and sanding to clean it up after. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.