Gunsmith says NO - internal and external threading

[Diggler 0]

I called my gunsmith/machinist and he doesn't do internal choke threading. However, I asked him if it should be OK if I got it threaded for internal chokes, and also externally for a flash hider. He was pretty adamant that it shouldn't be done because there likely wouldn't be enough barrel left to adequately support the choke and hider.

 

SO, I guess I will have to weld the flash hider on and make a choke wrench with an extension so that I can install the chokes with the flash hider on the gun. If I'm going to weld the flash hider on, I might as well chop the barrel to be 18 ½" long with the flash hider. I'd like to save as much money as possible, which means cutting the barrel myself and welding the flash hider on myself. To do this I will have to remove the barrel so that I won't be delivering a 17 or 17 ½" barrelled shotgun to a gunsmith.

 

Is the barrel easily removed on the Saiga-12? I am guessing that it is the same as the AK's... drive out the barrel pin and press it out. Is this right? Also, is there any concern about headspacing when reinstalling the barrel, or do you just press it in until the hole lines up, put the barrel pin back in and forget about it?

 

Thanks...

[ForGreatJustice 1]

TAking a barrel off an AK is a b***. You'd be better off having the gunsmith do the cut and weld. IF you really want to save money, just thread and add the extra length to your barrel. One inch isn't going to kill you.

[G O B 3,516]

Have the barell threaded for win-chokes and put the flashhider on an extended choke. Best of both worlds, you can still use any choke that you want.

 

G O B

[TonyRumore 1,332]

I took some measurements in order to confirm that your gunsmith is correct. You can't always trust your gunsmith, trust me.... ;-)

 

Taking a standard 1100 remchoke setup, if you were to install them in the Saiga barrel, the ID would need to be opened up to .820". After externally threading the barrel to 7/8-28tpi, the bottom of the thread is at .821", which leaves about zero wall thickness between the two. This would not work. You need at least .020" wall remaining to be safe in my opinion.

Edited January 16, 2005 by TonyRumore

[ForGreatJustice 1]

What about your Red loctite method Tony? That'd be easier than welding. Dunno if its permanant enough to skirt the NFA, but from a practical standpoint, he could do that....

[USP40 1]

I took some measurements in order to confirm that your gunsmith is correct. You can't always trust your gunsmith, trust me.... ;-)

 

Taking a standard 1100 remchoke setup, if you were to install them in the Saiga barrel, the ID would need to be opened up to .820". After externally threading the barrel to 7/8-28tpi, the bottom of the thread is at .821", which leaves about zero wall thickness between the two. This would not work. You need at least .020" wall remaining to be safe in my opinion.

Tony what about Poly-choke??

[Diggler 0]

OK, at least I know for sure.

 

So since I will be permanently attaching it I might as well go with the minimum length. I have a 20 ton press, and had no problem removing the barrel pin and pressing out the barrel of an AMD-65. Is the Saiga-12 the same? I am also worried about whether there are headspacing issues with shotguns like there is in rifles... I don't THINK there should be, but I wanted to check before removing the barrel.

 

Tony, thanks for taking the measurements.

Edited January 16, 2005 by Diggler

[TonyRumore 1,332]

Hell ya, a Poly choke would work. I have one on the first gun my dad ever gave me at age 7. It's an Ithaca 37 20ga, with a shortened stock and a poly choke.

 

I imagine I could Tig Weld a flash hider to the external part that spins in order to give you a choke and a flash hider, no problem.

[USP40 1]

Thanks Tony