New .308, Parts Count and Saiga .308 Conversion

[Salmonaxe 0]

So, I went out and picked up a Saiga .308 16" for $300 OTD. Went and shot it today at my local range that only allows for 1 round at a time (Those bastards!!! ) I had a PSOP 8X scope laying around, so I popped that on and zeroed it in. The best groups I got were around 3MOA shooting at 100yards. I was using some of that surplus AUS .308. I don't know how accurate that stuff is, but it seems that it was inconsistantly loaded to me. Some times I'd shoot a 5 round pack and it would be consistently high, and then my group would move down. I dunno, I bet it was just me, anticipating the recoil or something...

 

Still, the groups were decent enough for me to deem this worthy of a project gun, so I had some questions:

 

1. What is the Parts Count needed to do a PG conversion on this bad boy?

....I might think about putting a Non US made folder on it, if I can substitute parts someplace else...

 

2. What's the recoil like when you changed out the Monte Carlo type stock, for a military type stock?

.....I know that the military stocks have substantially less surface area meeting your shoulder. For me, in the Saiga .308's factory configuration, recoil was a real pussycat. I just didn't like the cheek weld, and how far I had to reach to get my finger on the trigger. (not to mention the wonky trigger pull)

 

3. Do you have to break the spotwelds on the plate that covers the original trigger hole?

.....I was thinking that I might just cut right behind the trigger hole and leave the rest of the plate on. I seem to remember seeing conversions were people specifically made a plate for this area to add extra strength to where the PGrip is. (or did I just hallucinate it?)

 

4.My Saiga .308 doesn't have the Grip nut hole cut into the receiver, but I've seen pics of people whose did.... is it common to have the grip nut hole? or is mine just an oddball? (I hated cutting that hole in my Saiga 12.... now I have to do it again..... )

 

5. Since I've done a Saiga 12 PG conversion, is there any major difference between this conversion and that one?

....it looks like the trigger will be a lot easier, because there's no rear trigger pins to drill out.

 

6.I saw somewhere that someone was saying they chopped some part off of the bolt hold open.... What's that all about? I want to keep my BHO.

 

7. I've also heard some talk about the sear spring(disconnector).... what's that all about?

 

8. Will an AK-74 FSB fit on this? I seem to have seen people with threaded FSB's... or at least with cool muzzle breaks and flash hiders... How'd you guys go about that?

 

Thanks!

(and sorry for the huge post)

[RooK 0]

So, I went out and picked up a Saiga .308 16" for $300 OTD.

 

Welcome to the club!

 

1. What is the Parts Count needed to do a PG conversion on this bad boy?

You need to replace four parts, the trigger, hammer, disconnector and stock are the most common.

 

2. What's the recoil like when you changed out the Monte Carlo type stock, for a military type stock?

 

I personally found the recoil with my Tapco folder to be less than that of the factory stock. Cheek weld and fit was right on, same can't be said for the factory stock.

 

3. Do you have to break the spotwelds on the plate that covers the original trigger hole?

I guess you could leave it, but it will interfere with the pistol grip's fit and possibly some other parts. The receiver does not need reinforcing.

 

4.My Saiga .308 doesn't have the Grip nut hole cut into the receiver, but I've seen pics of people whose did.... is it common to have the grip nut hole?

 

It seems to be a hit or miss thing. Some have them some don't, no idea on whether it's a random practice, or they quit adding them or started adding them.

 

5. Since I've done a Saiga 12 PG conversion, is there any major difference between this conversion and that one?

I haven't done a 12 conversion, but there are 2 rivets, 2 spot welds, knock the plate off and reattach the triggerguard by drilling a hole where the 3rd rivet would be on a 7.62x39 version and attaching it with a screw. You'll also need to grind down your hammer.

 

6.I saw somewhere that someone was saying they chopped some part off of the bolt hold open.... What's that all about?  I want to keep my BHO.

 

When doing the conversion, the BHO sticks down right next to your trigger finger and you can inadvertantly bump it, activating it. Some people trim a bit off the protruding piece to prevent accidental engagement.

 

7. I've also heard some talk about the sear spring(disconnector).... what's that all about?

The disconnector that is in the stock FCG is too large in diameter and length for a normal FCG. You can either buy a regular spring or drill the disconnector/trigger recess and trim the spring a little.

 

8. Will an AK-74 FSB fit on this?  I seem to have seen people with threaded FSB's... or at least with cool muzzle breaks and flash hiders...  How'd you guys go about that?

 

Most people have something custom fitted. I believe the muzzle with the FSB removed is too large without modifcation for general addons.

 

I highly advise you look up my thread in this forum on my conversion. It has lots of info/pics on what is needed and should give you some ideas.

Edited January 24, 2005 by RooK

[Salmonaxe 0]

The disconnector that is in the stock FCG is too large in diameter and length for a normal FCG. You can either buy a regular spring or drill the disconnector/trigger recess and trim the spring a little.

 

Why use the old disconnector when that's a part you would have to replace? I'd feel a little weird using parts from different FCGs.... Or are you saying that most FCG's don't come with the disconnector spring and that's the old part you're using?

 

Thanks a lot for the info! I'm going to check out you thread now.

[txn 0]

Rook meant to say the disconnector spring.

 

From what I've read, the Tapco (Gordon) G2 FCG does not include the disconnector spring. People have tried to reuse the Saiga spring, but it is a larger diameter than the normal AK disconnector spring.

 

There are several ways to deal with this.

1. Get a standard AK disconnector spring. Wolff has them.

2. Drill out your new disconnector to accept the Saiga spring.

3. Get an RSA FCG, which you may want if you are planning on using this in matches like you mentioned in another thread.

[vulcan762 0]

Hell, I was just going to suggest he search and read the forums. Especially the 7.62x39 threads as they frequently cover the pistol grip conversion which is essentially the same on the .308.

 

These conversions have been covered pretty well and many include detailed information and photographs. Lots of different ideas, solutions, and variations.

[nx468 0]

Im new to the forums as well and I just got a 16" .308 Saiga. Not wanting to change the buffer yet. Maybe depends on the price. Im looking for Pistol Grip and Changing the stock. Ive heard the AK stocks and Pistol Grips will work is this true ? If guys could guide me to some nice pieces most appericated.

[AKhunter 0]

If the US made hicap thing goes through, then that's 3 parts right there. That and a fcg would put you well within the legal limit.

 

AK

[Salmonaxe 0]

Rook meant to say the disconnector spring.

 

From what I've read, the Tapco (Gordon) G2 FCG does not include the disconnector spring. People have tried to reuse the Saiga spring, but it is a larger diameter than the normal AK disconnector spring.

 

There are several ways to deal with this.

1. Get a standard AK disconnector spring. Wolff has them.

2. Drill out your new disconnector to accept the Saiga spring.

3. Get an RSA FCG, which you may want if you are planning on using this in matches like you mentioned in another thread.

There are a bunch of different RSA FCG's to choose from on RSA's website! They're all different based off of caliber and model.... so, should I get the .308 Vepr one? or should I get a standard one? Is there one that requires the least amount of modification?

 

Thanks for all the great info.

[txn 0]

I used the AK7.62 model, and it was a drop-in fit. Ken posted somewhere before a reason why not to use his VEPR.308 model, but I cannot find it at the moment. Trust me, you will like this trigger.

[BlenderWizard 12]

I used a double hook g2, and it works quite nicely. The hammer has to be ground like Rook said, and the "tube" of the stock hammer is narrower (or shorter, depending on how you are looking at it), so if you want to keep your BHO, then you should grind the end off of it to match the original (I did). I did all my grinding with a dremel.

Edited February 2, 2005 by BlenderWizard