shadowboxer 0 Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 (edited) 1) I bought a cheapo blaster from HF for $30 to blast with aluminum oxide the finish off our new S12 we're converting as a group project. I do need to do this right? I can't paint over it? 2) After I blast, I'm going to wipe down the gun with MEK to prep for heating then spraying. 3) After I spray and pull out of oven, what type of oil should I wipe it down with? 4) Any other tips you can share to help this come out great? We bought a Badger 350 airbrush to use. Thanks for your help! Edited February 10, 2009 by Shadowboxer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gibbles 23 Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Not a bad idea to blast it. I used brownells alumahyde 2 on mine, I decided the factory paint seemed to be good enough to allow me to paint over the top, so I did.. so far so good, and it seems to be sticking very well, but the stuff takes a very long time to dry. I think I have another week or so before it's fully cured. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TonyRumore 1,332 Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Aluminum Oxide 120 grit blast is mandatory. Don't use glass beads or the finish will come right off. Preheat to 150F, not 100F. If there are springs in the gun, like the mag latch spring, cook for 2 hours at 200 degrees, not 1 hour at 300. Springs start to sack out at about 250F. Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shadowboxer 0 Posted February 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 (edited) Thanks guys. After trying to clean the gun and seeing how much oil 'bleeds' from it, I can see why you need to blast it. Two more questions: Several light coats THEN cure in the oven OR bake in between light coats? What type of oil to put on the gun when I take it out of the oven? Thanks again for your help! Aluminum Oxide 120 grit blast is mandatory. Don't use glass beads or the finish will come right off. Preheat to 150F, not 100F. If there are springs in the gun, like the mag latch spring, cook for 2 hours at 200 degrees, not 1 hour at 300. Springs start to sack out at about 250F. Tony Edited February 11, 2009 by Shadowboxer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shadowboxer 0 Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Bump for answers to my two other questions. Thanks guys. After trying to clean the gun and seeing how much oil 'bleeds' from it, I can see why you need to blast it. Two more questions: Several light coats THEN cure in the oven OR bake in between light coats? What type of oil to put on the gun when I take it out of the oven? Thanks again for your help! Aluminum Oxide 120 grit blast is mandatory. Don't use glass beads or the finish will come right off. Preheat to 150F, not 100F. If there are springs in the gun, like the mag latch spring, cook for 2 hours at 200 degrees, not 1 hour at 300. Springs start to sack out at about 250F. Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
corbin 621 Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 I've used GunKote, so I can only comment on that, but I've done light coats, covering what I could before it cooled down too much. Then I'd put it back in for 10 minutes or so to heat back up and I'd get the areas I missed. If you can get a whole coat, then fine....but I couldn't. I wasn't using a professional sprayer though. Corbin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
belt fed frog 56 Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 thick film = several thin coats and only heat to spray temp between THEN bake after all paint is on, as for oil what oil, Moly resin doesnt need oil it is the protective coating and as the name suggests it contains Moly Disulfide (never seize) and really doesnt need any oil since Moly is slicker than any oil However you will need oil for non coated parts and any brand or type is OK , MOLY resists an amazing list of chemicals and it totally uneffected by plain old oil why do you think it is Tony`s coating of choice Quote Link to post Share on other sites
6500rpm 670 Posted February 13, 2009 Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 Also, try to blast and clean w/ MEK pretty close to when your going to spray it unless you can keep it away from humidity. Just blasting takes a bit before rust starts showing, but after you wash it down with MEK I've seen parts flash rust pretty quick if humidity is high. Don't worry, blasting and a good wash down is the right way to do it and your really going to like the results. Keep the coats thin unless you like it glossy. I usually don't oil things down for atleast a day after curing but once cured, nothings going to hurt this stuff (even MEK). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shadowboxer 0 Posted February 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 Also, try to blast and clean w/ MEK pretty close to when your going to spray it unless you can keep it away from humidity. Just blasting takes a bit before rust starts showing, but after you wash it down with MEK I've seen parts flash rust pretty quick if humidity is high. Don't worry, blasting and a good wash down is the right way to do it and your really going to like the results. Keep the coats thin unless you like it glossy. I usually don't oil things down for atleast a day after curing but once cured, nothings going to hurt this stuff (even MEK). This is where I am confused; the mfg states "Parts should be coated in light oil immediately after cured and cooled". That's why I was asking what type of oil to use if it made a difference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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