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Hi Everyone,

I'm a newby so please be kind. I just received my new Saiga 7.62X39 and I'm considering the conversion. I have seen the sites available with step by step instructions and, as a maintenance dude by trade, believe I could do the conversion without any major problems. My questions are-

 

1) I have heard many of you talk about the benefits of the change. Are they simply the "cool-factor" look, the feel after the geometry changes, or is the function somehow better? I understand you must have a slight difference when you alter the trigger linkage by moving everything forward... does that make a big difference. Also, with an adjustable stock (Tapco AR style) you can alter the shoulder to trigger distance, so I don't get the benefit there. I agree the conversions look better, but I'm not sold on the benefits since I haven't held or shot one after conversion. Please enlighten me if you wouldn't mind.

 

2) If I should decide to convert, can someone make a recommendation as to a good, smooth trigger group to get and also what kind of paint or covering to use if bare metal is left exposed after grinding or drilling?

 

Thanks a ton!

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Read this thread, this board, and this board.

 

"Converting" your Saiga rifle is about more than just looks. You're restoring it to the configuration it was meant to have, that of an AK-103, (minus selective fire, of course). The rifle was meant to be built that way, our idiotic, unconstitutional "gun control" laws are what force the Russians to neuter Saiga rifles to the "sporter" configuration you have now.

 

Once you convert your rifle back to the way it's supposed to be, it's better in every way, from a vastly improved and simplified trigger group, to a shorter overall weapon, to greater ergonomics and handling.

 

Imo there is no debate. Convert that rifle. It's not difficult or expensive to do and you'll be very happy once you do.

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Hi Everyone,

I'm a newby so please be kind. I just received my new Saiga 7.62X39 and I'm considering the conversion. I have seen the sites available with step by step instructions and, as a maintenance dude by trade, believe I could do the conversion without any major problems. My questions are-

 

1) I have heard many of you talk about the benefits of the change. Are they simply the "cool-factor" look, the feel after the geometry changes, or is the function somehow better? I understand you must have a slight difference when you alter the trigger linkage by moving everything forward... does that make a big difference. Also, with an adjustable stock (Tapco AR style) you can alter the shoulder to trigger distance, so I don't get the benefit there. I agree the conversions look better, but I'm not sold on the benefits since I haven't held or shot one after conversion. Please enlighten me if you wouldn't mind.

This question has been asked twice, since Sunday. Please take some time to read the stickies and current popular threads.
2) If I should decide to convert, can someone make a recommendation as to a good, smooth trigger group to get and also what kind of paint or covering to use if bare metal is left exposed after grinding or drilling?
If you think about it, you won't be grinding or drilling on any permanent part of your rifle.

 

I'm scared to think where you got the idea that "grinding and drilling" on the "good" parts of the Saiga was necessary. . .

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As I said, I'm a newbie, so I was probably wrong about the exposure of any drilled or ground material. I assume from your post that any changes, provided they were performed carefully, will leave the rifle without the need for paint or other coverups following conversion, right?

Hi Everyone,

I'm a newby so please be kind. I just received my new Saiga 7.62X39 and I'm considering the conversion. I have seen the sites available with step by step instructions and, as a maintenance dude by trade, believe I could do the conversion without any major problems. My questions are-

 

1) I have heard many of you talk about the benefits of the change. Are they simply the "cool-factor" look, the feel after the geometry changes, or is the function somehow better? I understand you must have a slight difference when you alter the trigger linkage by moving everything forward... does that make a big difference. Also, with an adjustable stock (Tapco AR style) you can alter the shoulder to trigger distance, so I don't get the benefit there. I agree the conversions look better, but I'm not sold on the benefits since I haven't held or shot one after conversion. Please enlighten me if you wouldn't mind.

This question has been asked twice, since Sunday. Please take some time to read the stickies and current popular threads.
2) If I should decide to convert, can someone make a recommendation as to a good, smooth trigger group to get and also what kind of paint or covering to use if bare metal is left exposed after grinding or drilling?
If you think about it, you won't be grinding or drilling on any permanent part of your rifle.

 

I'm scared to think where you got the idea that "grinding and drilling" on the "good" parts of the Saiga was necessary. . .

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I recently converted, using info in here and some videos on the net. The balance of the pistol grip make weapon easier to handle and the trigger is night and day in feel while firing. It is worth the investment. This is if want the looks and firing benefits. I was worried about doing it myself, but it actually turned out to be very easy. Here is the link to the post I made after converted. I do list the parts and vendors so, maybe that will help you out. If you want exact part #'s let me know.

 

-Bryan

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Thank you, sir, the pics and the parts list were very welcome additions to my info gathering. Your gun looks great.

Charlie

I recently converted, using info in here and some videos on the net. The balance of the pistol grip make weapon easier to handle and the trigger is night and day in feel while firing. It is worth the investment. This is if want the looks and firing benefits. I was worried about doing it myself, but it actually turned out to be very easy. Here is the link to the post I made after converted. I do list the parts and vendors so, maybe that will help you out. If you want exact part #'s let me know.

 

-Bryan

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Thanks for not crushing me under a pile of "My God, man, we've been answering this same question for 42 years now, read the F'ing threads." I appreciate your referral to the aforementioned threads and such. Peace Out.

Read this thread, this board, and this board.

 

"Converting" your Saiga rifle is about more than just looks. You're restoring it to the configuration it was meant to have, that of an AK-103, (minus selective fire, of course). The rifle was meant to be built that way, our idiotic, unconstitutional "gun control" laws are what force the Russians to neuter Saiga rifles to the "sporter" configuration you have now.

 

Once you convert your rifle back to the way it's supposed to be, it's better in every way, from a vastly improved and simplified trigger group, to a shorter overall weapon, to greater ergonomics and handling.

 

Imo there is no debate. Convert that rifle. It's not difficult or expensive to do and you'll be very happy once you do.

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Thanks for not crushing me under a pile of "My God, man, we've been answering this same question for 42 years now, read the F'ing threads." I appreciate your referral to the aforementioned threads and such. Peace Out.
Read this thread, this board, and this board.

 

"Converting" your Saiga rifle is about more than just looks. You're restoring it to the configuration it was meant to have, that of an AK-103, (minus selective fire, of course). The rifle was meant to be built that way, our idiotic, unconstitutional "gun control" laws are what force the Russians to neuter Saiga rifles to the "sporter" configuration you have now.

 

Once you convert your rifle back to the way it's supposed to be, it's better in every way, from a vastly improved and simplified trigger group, to a shorter overall weapon, to greater ergonomics and handling.

 

Imo there is no debate. Convert that rifle. It's not difficult or expensive to do and you'll be very happy once you do.

 

I've got maintenance experience so I'm here to tell you you've done far harder. hardest part about doing it is just drilling through some tough metal. once you gut it, you'll see how easy it is. trigger is so far superior to the factory one, gun shoots smoother, handles better with the weight distribution and doing the conversion allows for some real fun stuff to be added like milsurp mags and a good pistol grip.

 

welcome to the forum, from one maintenance guy to another, it's a picnic compared to a lot of crap at work

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Plus you get to know about everything there is to know about your new rifle. I'd recommend it to almost anyone, nothing like a fun learning experience you can do in your own home. Good luck, just beware it's addicting :)

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As I said, I'm a newbie, so I was probably wrong about the exposure of any drilled or ground material. I assume from your post that any changes, provided they were performed carefully, will leave the rifle without the need for paint or other coverups following conversion, right?

Painting will be required. There will be exposed bare metal once you remove the Klinton plate.

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As I said, I'm a newbie, so I was probably wrong about the exposure of any drilled or ground material. I assume from your post that any changes, provided they were performed carefully, will leave the rifle without the need for paint or other coverups following conversion, right?

Painting will be required. There will be exposed bare metal once you remove the Klinton plate.

Only if you have a grinder "oopsie" or drill oversize holes trying to get your pins / rivets out (drilling the pins is totally unnecessary, imho)..

 

Saiga metal is parkerized and then painted.

Edited by nalioth
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As I said, I'm a newbie, so I was probably wrong about the exposure of any drilled or ground material. I assume from your post that any changes, provided they were performed carefully, will leave the rifle without the need for paint or other coverups following conversion, right?

Painting will be required. There will be exposed bare metal once you remove the Klinton plate.

Only if you have a grinder "oopsie" or drill oversize holes trying to get your pins / rivets out (drilling the pins is totally unnecessary, imho)..

 

Saiga metal is parkerized and then painted.

 

I also had what I'm pretty sure was bare metal under that plate. Unless they painted it with clearcoat.

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As I said, I'm a newbie, so I was probably wrong about the exposure of any drilled or ground material. I assume from your post that any changes, provided they were performed carefully, will leave the rifle without the need for paint or other coverups following conversion, right?

Painting will be required. There will be exposed bare metal once you remove the Klinton plate.

Only if you have a grinder "oopsie" or drill oversize holes trying to get your pins / rivets out (drilling the pins is totally unnecessary, imho)..

 

Saiga metal is parkerized and then painted.

 

I also had what I'm pretty sure was bare metal under that plate. Unless they painted it with clearcoat.

No, they parkerize the rifle, and then paint it.

 

When you pull the Klinton plate off, you remove the painted portion (the Klinton plate) exposing the parkerized steel underneath.

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