wlnt 2 Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 I am getting a 74 year old mil-surp pistol that has enamel over phosphate for a surface treatment (originally made this way). As you can imagine the paint has chipped and worn making the pistol look much older than it is. Do you know how difficult or who might be able to tell me the difficulty of removing the enamel paint and then just re-phosphating the entire pistol. I would stop at the re-phosphating if it looks good (a dark gray phosphate finnish like many CZ52's I have seen. I need to know is this possible and feasible? Would the overall color match (after rephosphating) or would areas where the paint wore through, be shiner or a little different in the shade of color as opposed to the areas that were protected by the enamel? Thank you, louielouie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Azrial 1,091 Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 It will sandblast off. You will have to anyway, Parkerrizeing a part that has been parked already will not work. You have to get down below the surface level Oxidation left by the previous finish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted June 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 It will sandblast off. You will have to anyway, Parkerrizeing a part that has been parked already will not work. You have to get down below the surface level Oxidation left by the previous finish. 'Azrial', I have only worked with gun blue ,Duracoat and spray paint. I have no experience with parkerizing. What I have read tells me it is an etched surface. I cannot revert it to bluing or can I ? If I use bluing on a parkerized surface will it work? How difficult would it be? Any and all information is appreciated. louielouie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunnysmith 4 Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 try DOT 3 brake fliud, soak and use a tooth brush to remove the paint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 It will sandblast off. You will have to anyway, Parkerrizeing a part that has been parked already will not work. You have to get down below the surface level Oxidation left by the previous finish. 'Azrial', I have only worked with gun blue ,Duracoat and spray paint. I have no experience with parkerizing. What I have read tells me it is an etched surface. I cannot revert it to bluing or can I ? If I use bluing on a parkerized surface will it work? How difficult would it be? Any and all information is appreciated. louielouie Bluing and parkerizing are two different surface treatments. You can have one or the other. After you get it sandblasted clean, you can blue it or park it - your choice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glockmonger 18 Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 As a few of the guys here stated, One of the steps in prep of a parked gun is blasting it. If properly prepped, and then reparked, your gun should look new. Different hardnesses and some different carbon levels will park differently. Such as weld or hard spots, some shotgun lugs, nickel steel, etc. Silver solder will not park, nor will any non ferrous metals. If those marks or colors bug you then it can be coated after the park process. Do not get any impurities in/on the etch before coating. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wlnt 2 Posted June 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 It will sandblast off. You will have to anyway, Parkerrizeing a part that has been parked already will not work. You have to get down below the surface level Oxidation left by the previous finish. 'Azrial', I have only worked with gun blue ,Duracoat and spray paint. I have no experience with parkerizing. What I have read tells me it is an etched surface. I cannot revert it to bluing or can I ? If I use bluing on a parkerized surface will it work? How difficult would it be? Any and all information is appreciated. louielouie Bluing and parkerizing are two different surface treatments. You can have one or the other. After you get it sandblasted clean, you can blue it or park it - your choice. Nalioth, It is obvious that I don't know about parkerizing. After the surfaced is sandblasted, what must I do to it before cold-blueing? louielouie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 Nalioth, It is obvious that I don't know about parkerizing. After the surfaced is sandblasted, what must I do to it before cold-blueing? louielouie Parkerizing - Wikipedia Bluing - Wikipedia When I cold blue stuff ( I use Van's Instant Gun Blue ), I get my propane torch and heat the metal up. It helps the process along. You'll also want to make sure there is no oil or grease on the metal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
uzitiger 193 Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 (edited) try DOT 3 brake fluid, soak and use a tooth brush to remove the paint. That's one way to strip paint with the brake fluid soaking it overnight and the paint will peel off. A second option is to use a commercial paint stripper either with methylene chloride or one of the safety strippers. In the worst case use oven cleaner. Edited June 20, 2009 by uzitiger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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