High Temp materials

[Teaser 0]

Hey all,

 

Just an FYI. I put 200 rounds down range this past week end. The barrel as we know gets pretty hot. I was thinking of a solution for this problem, on the way home. I did a search for High temp materials when I got home. I came up with this - High temp. material

 

I order a yard of CH Grade Silica fabric material ($14) just a few minutes ago. It should be here by this week end. I plan to line the forearm/hand guard with this to see how it will work out. I will only shoot 100 rounds pretty quick to see if this will work(hate to waste the rounds even in the name of science ). I have looked at other hand guards with heat shields and I may end up going that way, but for now, I'm outside the box.

Edited July 16, 2009 by Teaser

[n102788 6]

do you still have the stock handguard? i wanted to line my handguard too, i was thinking heating duct metal. I feel stupid asking this because i fiqure it is so simple and no one has said anything about this when this subject is brought up, so here goes, what about tinfoil that shit is like magic when cooking so would it work to keep your handguard cool if you lined the inside of it. tell us how that CH grade silica works out.

[evi1joe 1]

I've wondered about that as well--I can't wait to hear how the silica fabric works out. Also, it does seem like if you could create a double-pane effect with two layers of tin-foil separated by a very thin layer of something that (a) is porous and ( doesn't burn at high temps, you could make a very thin insulation wall to keep the handguard from heating up. I plan to experiment with silica, etc., IF my surefire tri-rail gives me any trouble by overheating.

 

The silica cloth is probably more effective, but you could try sandwiching flame retardant cloth (see below) in tinfoil.

Flame retardant fabrics for cheap:

http://www.herbalremedies.com/fire-resistant-cloth.html

http://www.utilitysafeguard.com/Safety/Wel...elding-Sleeves/

[SOPMOD 254]

Let us know how this works because even gloves are not enough after dumping a full 360rds down range.That sucker get's hot and with the Ultimak I don't dare shift my grip or I run into the sizzling hot aluminum above the handguards.

[Hemlock 1]

When I was converting my .308, I tried to vent the hand guard. I had already done it on my 7.62 just fine. I drilled a little lower on the front end of the .308 handgaurd, and to my suprise, I couldn't get through it. I ruined a few drill bits trying. It had a metal liner. So before you do too much experimenting, maybe check to see if the stock hand guard already has a liner/heat shield. Maybe use a magnet.

It seems like if you put a heat conducting material (duct metal) inside your handguard, you're just adding one more object to collect heat.

On the other hand, if you could do a fiberglass style mold with your silica heat cloth maybe that would work. Let us know.

[Teaser 0]

I will update this post with info. and pictures. I am just as curious as everyone else. This is the stock handguard that I will be working with. I may which out to the TAPCO Intrafuse handguard, If this tests out well.

[Teaser 0]

Hey all,

 

Here is the update on the High Temp. insulating material. It was at my house when I got home Fri. evening. I would say it feels medium weight in your hand. Nothing special to look at. I cut down a piece to fit the hand guard. It lays in the hand guard like a nice suit. Nice U shape.

 

I went to the range this morning to run some tests. 100 rounds Wolf Performance (2-30 rd.mags, 4-10 rd.mags). It took about 5 min. (I shot with stock folded and shot at about 35-40yds. testing setup of gun). I am pleased with the way things went. The hand guard was slightly warm at the end of fire. Like a dummy, I touch the barrel . Over the next 10 minutes the hand guard got gradually warmer until it became low level hot to the touch(just above warm, TO ME ). Not enough to make you put it down. You could shoot some more(maybe another 100 rds. in 5 min.) After that you would need a glove for sure. Lets just say that it wasn't as hot as last week end when I shot 200 rounds, yet. On The forward area of the hand guard, a frayed piece of material did melt on both sides. Other than that, the insulating material held up well. It will work well for Range shooting. But if you are going "Rambo" for a short period of time, You will still need a glove or something in the end, no matter what you use. The gun performed marvelously by the way. Pics. -

 

 

 

 

 

 

[JCP281 2]

Hey all,

 

Here is the update on the High Temp. insulating material. It was at my house when I got home Fri. evening. I would say it feels medium weight in your hand. Nothing special to look at. I cut down a piece to fit the hand guard. It lays in the hand guard like a nice suit. Nice U shape.

 

I went to the range this morning to run some tests. 100 rounds Wolf Performance (2-30 rd.mags, 4-10 rd.mags). It took about 5 min. (I shot with stock folded and shot at about 35-40yds. testing setup of gun). I am pleased with the way things went. The hand guard was slightly warm at the end of fire. Like a dummy, I touch the barrel . Over the next 10 minutes the hand guard got gradually warmer until it became low level hot to the touch(just above warm, TO ME ). Not enough to make you put it down. You could shoot some more(maybe another 100 rds. in 5 min.) After that you would need a glove for sure. Lets just say that it wasn't as hot as last week end when I shot 200 rounds, yet. On The forward area of the hand guard, a frayed piece of material did melt on both sides. Other than that, the insulating material held up well. It will work well for Range shooting. But if you are going "Rambo" for a short period of time, You will still need a glove or something in the end, no matter what you use. The gun performed marvelously by the way. Pics. -

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That is a great Idea. I would trim the material a bit more(im super anal about details) so you cant tell its there. Great Idea, I will surely be ordering a yard or 2 for my guns.

[evi1joe 1]

Do you think you could double it over in there and have two layers (maybe with some tinfoil between them even) or is it too thick for that? ;o)

[JCP281 2]

Do you think you could double it over in there and have two layers (maybe with some tinfoil between them even) or is it too thick for that? ;o)

 

I dont see why you couldnt. You could most likely tripple layer it. That would take a lot of the heat away. If you vent the hand guard and apply a few layer to the bottom I would venture to guess you would dissipate a tremendous amount of heat.

[skifast 2]

Is there any concern about the increase in barrel heating?

[Azrial 1,091]

Interesting idea, I may try it myself.

[Teaser 0]

Do you think you could double it over in there and have two layers (maybe with some tinfoil between them even) or is it too thick for that? ;o)

 

I dont see why you couldnt. You could most likely tripple layer it. That would take a lot of the heat away. If you vent the hand guard and apply a few layer to the bottom I would venture to guess you would dissipate a tremendous amount of heat.

 

 

Correct JCP281,

 

When I tested the original hand guard, I used one layer due to how snug it was around the piston and barrel. I believe that is one reason why the original hand guard heats up so quickly, along with the lack of venting holes. 100 rounds 5 min., hand guard was still cool. 6-10 min., hand guard very warm but you could still hold it. It started to cool down around 20 min. I switched out original hand guard for the Tapco intrafuse handguard. I double line it and put it on. I also added the UTG 5-position folding front fore grip. This is the way to go if you want to put a couple hundred rounds down range pretty quick(10-20 min.) I burned another 100 rounds in 5 min. with this setup and no heat problems to be concerned about. I have 500 rounds of "Tiger" that will be here Thursday. We will see what 200 rounds in 10-20 min. will be like this week end. I don't think there will be a heat issue unless I touch the barrel again . Needless to say, I have given samples to some buds and range associates to try.

 

 

 

[leadslinger 37]

Teaser and everyone,

 

did you get a final verdict on the the heat material? I am getting my 7.62 conversion finished and would really like to keep the OEM handguard.

 

Lets hear what everyone came up with. Did anyone try to put some of the heat material on the contact points (ie where the screws attache to the barrel lugs?) did that make a difference?

[Teaser 0]

Teaser and everyone,

 

did you get a final verdict on the the heat material? I am getting my 7.62 conversion finished and would really like to keep the OEM handguard.

 

Lets hear what everyone came up with. Did anyone try to put some of the heat material on the contact points (ie where the screws attache to the barrel lugs?) did that make a difference?

 

Hey leadslinger,

 

The Tapco intrafuse handguard is the way to go. I use the heat material double over to line the bottom and the sides. It is a U shape. The heat dissipates well. I never tried the Tapco intrafuse handguard without it. The way it is design, it probably will work well without heat material too. It is a better design for heat dissipation than the original handguard. If you do not shoot alot of rounds in a short period of time, the original handguard will work OK. It all depends on how you use your weapon. Hunting = OK , light range work = OK. Rapid fire = Not OK , continuous fire = not OK.

 

This is my SHTF gun. I need to know how it will behave at all times. My observation so far is that this sagia 7.62X39 rifle will function well and be quite accurate out to 70 to 80 yds. within 2 to 3 inches after rapid or continuous fire. It is not a target rifle. I get 4 to 6 inch groups at 100 yds. Your mileage may vary, you need to know what it is .

[leadslinger 37]

teaser,

 

Thanks for the feedback. This is exactly what i needed to make final decision on handgaurd.