Specific Dremmel attatchments for just polishing...not grinding.

[charles4400 1]

So before grinding down things such as the bolt (which I wouldn;t do myselfbut send out to do it), I'd rather start by just polishng up certain parts as the rails , bolt and wahtever else seems to be causing friction indicated by paint rubbing off.

 

Question is wich dremmel attatchments are you using which will only polish but not grind to any significant degree...

 

I saw a video made by Zenmetsu (great vid by the way...very informative) (

) recommending a 425 Emery attatchment...but will I have to worry about grinding too much with that?

 

I would rather start with something 'Safe' as to not overgrind but mainly smooth up and take off paint where necessary.

 

Any true and tried recommendations?

Edited September 28, 2009 by charles4400

[Reverendfranz 160]

Sanding by hand is ALWAYS the best finish, then hit it with the dremel with a cloth buffing wheel and rouge or tripoly compound, that will get you a mirror finish if you take your time. Usually not needed for firearms, but can look nice. Be sure to back your paper, toungue depressors and paint stirrers work well.

 

Otherwise i use a nail or wooden dowel with a slot about 1.5in(or the width of whatever you are sanding) deep cut in the end, put that in the dremel and take a strip of sandpaper and wrap it around the nail or dowel, with one end of it in the slot, and go through each stage, medium to fine, and then polish the same as above. The paper at high speed at low pressure works pretty well at preventing the ripples most people get with dremel-ing.

[nalioth 405]

I would not grind or polish anything.

 

Firing the gun will do it for you - this is called "the break in period".

 

 

Folks who get to polishing what they think needs polishing, sometimes go overboard.

 

 

 

The 'bolt mod' isn't "polishing" per se, but relieving for easier operation. Polishing is a byproduct.

[Rustynuts 3]

Dremels with polishing wheels are notoriously hard to control. They will spin off the object even when you try hard not to and there will be contact with the spinning nut/post which WILL scratch the hell out of whatever you are trying to polish. Use Flitz and elbow grease. That is all. Also, if you reload, or feel the need to polish your loaded brass cartridges, DO NOT use Brasso or other ammonia containing polishes. It can em-brittle the brass. Not a big deal for a belt buckle or buttons, potentially a big deal for highly stressed brass! Yes, some people feel this is a big to-do about nothing, but chemically/metallurgically it is true. Better safe.

[Azrial 1,091]

For most jobs I like to use felt wheels with different grades of polishing compounds. Sometimes I use the hard rubber disks impregnated with abrasive for special jobs.

[zenmetsu 17]

dremel mandrels and screws are usually too soft to scratch the harder steel of the bolt and carrier. I slipped numerous times after getting to the final polishing stage of my carrier and did not even make a scratch on the surface when the mandrel or retaining screw hit the carrier. Your mileage may vary.

 

I used the #425 wheel for removing paint on the carrier. This removes paint and produces a decent pre-polish surface. You can use it to remove minor surface imperfections before going to the felt polishing wheels.

 

Use the black and the red polishing compounds with the felt wheels. I doubt that the white compound is going to do anything to this steel, and it is overkill anyways.

[charles4400 1]

Great thanks for the advice all, I think I'll make a couple of more trips to the range first so I get a better idea of where attention needs to be made by fricion marks....

 

hmmm which leads to a thought, when doing this maybe I shouldn't lubricate the internals as much so the wear areas show more....