mob 8 Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 hey guys, just ordered a tromix weldon backplate and DPH stock and waiting for them to come in. so i was wondering if a few of yall out there could take a few pictures of the welded in backplate that yall have. im having a friend at a FFL weld in the backplate for me with his tig. i also had questions as to if the plate was buttwelded against the reciever or inset into the reciever, internally or externally welded(ie showing a bead or not), and how the tang was cut, ie is it flush against the backplate or is there a few MM's clearance between the two Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 The way we do it at Tromix: 1) Cut the tang flush with the receiver. 1) Sand the end of the receiver so that it angles inward toward the bottom about 1.5 to 3 degrees; this is optional depending on your aethetic taste. Mock it up first to see. 3) You'll see how the plate fits against the receiver when you get it. Tony TIG welds them on with a full bead and then sands it off square. As long as you make it look clean and the welds are good, you're golden. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mob 8 Posted March 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 best way to acieve the 1.5-3 degrees as far as precise measurement? and do you have any pictures bob, im a visual type learner. and thanks a bunch for the info Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 You could use a protractor I guess, but I recommend you just lay the stuff out on a table and eyeball it. See if you think you want the angle or not. I don't have any pics that really show what you want, but the idea is that the stock will be angled slightly down toward the back; where it kinda follows the bottom edge of the receiver. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
skiboatsp 111 Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 Grind plate to allow rod to fill and get good penetration. Then when you dress there is plenty of weld left. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gunfixr 76 Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 If I remember right, at the height of the receiver, 3 degrees inward at the bottom is about .074". I usually slap the receiver in the milling machine, hit the bottom, go in about .060", about 1/16' to 1/8" down, and run across. It's just a depth setting. Then, take it over to the belt sander, and make it a smooth transition up to the top. Voila! Right about a 2 degree or so drop. Looks good every time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mob 8 Posted March 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 just to confirm ,the threaded bosses on the plate go on the inside so that its flush, and not on the outside protruding(thought possibly to lock on ACE folder mechanism from torsional twisting) ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mob 8 Posted March 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 bueller ? (or bob ash) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted March 24, 2010 Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 Sorry, thought this was resolved. YES...the pemserts go IN so the outside surface is flush. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BobAsh 582 Posted March 24, 2010 Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 Here's the closest pic that I have... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
skiboatsp 111 Posted March 24, 2010 Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 (edited) PEMS to the inside Edited March 24, 2010 by saigatechusa Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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