Painting my frame???

[RGVBadBoy 9]

Hello everyone, this is my first post, I have been using the search function mostly, but I couldnt find any topics that advised the preferable paint to paint the frame of my Saiga 12. I recently bought my Saiga and conducted my own pistol grip conversion aswell and cut the rear tang to install an M4 style stock. There are pieces of bare metal from where the original trigger guard was aswell as where I cut the tang.

 

Could you recommend a good spray paint I could use to cover these areas? I plan on keeping it blk bye the way.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Edited July 18, 2010 by RGVBadBoy

[danklab 57]

you'll hear a lot of different suggestions from different folks. i think most will agree that if you just need something to cover the bare metal that duplicolor high temp engine enamel FLAT black will work just fine. Just degrease the area first and maybe hit the exposed metal with some 600 grit sandpaper before spraying and let it fully cure before re-assembling the gun.

That's what I used and it has held up to use just fine... but be warned that strong cleaners... brake cleaner... etc will take that stuff right off.

[L5K 162]

I always use Alumahyde II, in the aerosol cans on my stuff. Holds up great. It's only available from Brownells, as they are the ones who make it.

[danklab 57]

I always use Alumahyde II, in the aerosol cans on my stuff. Holds up great. It's only available from Brownells, as they are the ones who make it.

 

 

 

Glad to hear something positive about Alumahyde II. I'm about to refinish my s-12 in park grey alumahyde. From what I read, it's no better than no-bake duracoat.. and the price is much more reasonable.

 

Any tips for application? Did you just leave it alone for 3 or 4 weeks for curing time?

[patriot 7,197]

I use AlumaHyde II on my personal builds. On the last AK I built from a flat I abrasive blasted all parts, degreased everything, then painted. Use THIN coats and follow the directions on the can. Since it's summer, a good long sit in the sun won't hurt and it'll speed curing. Heat really helps with curing. I let mine cure about 2-3 weeks before reassembly and use. If you do it right, t turns out nice and is very tough.

 

A good way to get a nice hard cure is to put the painted parts in a metal box (or a wooden one lined with foil) with a couple of light bulbs inside. Sort of an Easy Bake oven for AKs.

[RGVBadBoy 9]

Thanks for all the replies, I looked at the Duracoat Durabake product, but looks like I'll be using Aluma Hyde II instead, it seems like its a better overall product and has great reviews.