gregomega 929 Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 (edited) Thanks alot for taking the time to check this out. I need a lil bit of help. I took the FSB off have put on the new fsb w/24 threads on. Now im not sure how far to go down with the FSB. I have the end of it flush with the barrel but there is still metal showing from the old one. Heres a few pics: Do I need to go hammer it down to where the shiny metal is not showing or is flush with the tip of the barrel correct and I just need to apply some paint? Now does anyone know a good way to properly index the FSB so I know its centered? After I have it indexed ive read that im supposed to drill 2 holes in the lower part of the FSB near the bayonet lug. When drilling, will I drill into the barrel, obviously not through it but just enough so that the pins will hold it in place? or am I not supposed to touch the barrel at all? I have a 3/32 Drill bit that came with the FSBs. And just one more question. On the bottom of the FSB where the threads are ive noticed a hole, what is this for? Thanks AZG Edited August 9, 2010 by AZG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
paprotective 362 Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 Suggest checking Klassy C. thread, or PM'ing him.. Hes done this before. Al Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nalioth 405 Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 Do I need to go hammer it down to where the shiny metal is not showing or is flush with the tip of the barrel correct and I just need to apply some paint? Flush with the end of the barrel. Don't measure by the neutered piece of junk you removed. Now does anyone know a good way to properly index the FSB so I know its centered? The Mk1 Eyeball does a good job. Remember the front sight is both windage and elevation adjustable, so as long as you get it straight to the eye, it'll be fine. After I have it indexed ive read that im supposed to drill 2 holes in the lower part of the FSB near the bayonet lug. When drilling, will I drill into the barrel, obviously not through it but just enough so that the pins will hold it in place? or am I not supposed to touch the barrel at all? You'll be drilling some shallow divots in the barrel. And just one more question. On the bottom of the FSB where the threads are ive noticed a hole, what is this for? Where did you get the FSB? Some of the cheap American made ones have that hole for whatever reason. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted August 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 Do I need to go hammer it down to where the shiny metal is not showing or is flush with the tip of the barrel correct and I just need to apply some paint? Flush with the end of the barrel. Don't measure by the neutered piece of junk you removed. Now does anyone know a good way to properly index the FSB so I know its centered? The Mk1 Eyeball does a good job. Remember the front sight is both windage and elevation adjustable, so as long as you get it straight to the eye, it'll be fine. After I have it indexed ive read that im supposed to drill 2 holes in the lower part of the FSB near the bayonet lug. When drilling, will I drill into the barrel, obviously not through it but just enough so that the pins will hold it in place? or am I not supposed to touch the barrel at all? You'll be drilling some shallow divots in the barrel. And just one more question. On the bottom of the FSB where the threads are ive noticed a hole, what is this for? Where did you get the FSB? Some of the cheap American made ones have that hole for whatever reason. Dinzag Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 (edited) Do I need to go hammer it down to where the shiny metal is not showing or is flush with the tip of the barrel correct and I just need to apply some paint? Now does anyone know a good way to properly index the FSB so I know its centered? After I have it indexed ive read that im supposed to drill 2 holes in the lower part of the FSB near the bayonet lug. When drilling, will I drill into the barrel, obviously not through it but just enough so that the pins will hold it in place? or am I not supposed to touch the barrel at all? I have a 3/32 Drill bit that came with the FSBs. And just one more question. On the bottom of the FSB where the threads are ive noticed a hole, what is this for? It won't matter, if the end of the barrel and block are flush but metal is showing, just keep it there and touch up the little metal spot with some paint. I use dental floss tied to the buttstock, notched into the rear sight, and then pulled to the tip of the front sight, then I eyeball it a few times, then take it to the range for a real sight in. I would recommend making sure that it is sighted in perfectly and then scratch a mark, take it home and then do the drilling. Yes, the drill bits will go through the block, and a little bit of the barrel making a groove, and that will make your pins hold it on. I am not sure why it has that hole, I am thinking it is to screw a set screw in to hold it in place on the gun temporarily for when you sight it in and then drill, to keep it from flying off? Or it is possibly for a set screw or pin, for permanent brake attachment in ban states. Or maybe both. EDIT: Mine had that same hole, I got it from AKPartsKits. Edited August 9, 2010 by Classy Kalashnikov 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted August 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 Do I need to go hammer it down to where the shiny metal is not showing or is flush with the tip of the barrel correct and I just need to apply some paint? Now does anyone know a good way to properly index the FSB so I know its centered? After I have it indexed ive read that im supposed to drill 2 holes in the lower part of the FSB near the bayonet lug. When drilling, will I drill into the barrel, obviously not through it but just enough so that the pins will hold it in place? or am I not supposed to touch the barrel at all? I have a 3/32 Drill bit that came with the FSBs. And just one more question. On the bottom of the FSB where the threads are ive noticed a hole, what is this for? It won't matter, if the end of the barrel and block are flush but metal is showing, just keep it there and touch up the little metal spot with some paint. I use dental floss tied to the buttstock, notched into the rear sight, and then pulled to the tip of the front sight, then I eyeball it a few times, then take it to the range for a real sight in. I would recommend making sure that it is sighted in perfectly and then scratch a mark, take it home and then do the drilling. Yes, the drill bits will go through the block, and a little bit of the barrel making a groove, and that will make your pins hold it on. I am not sure why it has that hole, I am thinking it is to screw a set screw in to hold it in place on the gun temporarily for when you sight it in and then drill, to keep it from flying off? Or it is possibly for a set screw or pin, for permanent brake attachment in ban states. Or maybe both. EDIT: Mine had that same hole, I got it from AKPartsKits. Righton! thanks alot! will do. I appreciate it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SaigaNoobie 66 Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 Ok. First I center my Front sight Post for windage. THen I take it to the range and shoot. (50 yards is far enough to see if it's straight). If it shoots straight (Left-Right) I leave it alone. IF it's shooting one way or the other I move the FRONT SIGHT BLOCK left or right around the barrel until it shoots straight. I'd rather have a Front sight that was canted a bit to the left or right than a Front post that's not centered in the "ears". But that's just me. Once I'm satisfied with its location, I drill a small divot in the barrel where that "Hole" is in the bottom and use the shortest set-screw I can find at Lowes (10-32 is the thread pattern iirc). Drill the hole, knock the sight back off coat the barrel with some red loctite (Provides a moisture barrier as well as a hold.) and knock it back on and align it with the divot you drilled for the Set-Screw. Screw in the set screw. Screw will NOT come out when you have a brake on. I do blue loctite the setscrew though. I have the same FSB on my 5.45 and 7.62x39. Happy shootin! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted August 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 (edited) Ok. First I center my Front sight Post for windage. THen I take it to the range and shoot. (50 yards is far enough to see if it's straight). If it shoots straight (Left-Right) I leave it alone. IF it's shooting one way or the other I move the FRONT SIGHT BLOCK left or right around the barrel until it shoots straight. I'd rather have a Front sight that was canted a bit to the left or right than a Front post that's not centered in the "ears". But that's just me. Once I'm satisfied with its location, I drill a small divot in the barrel where that "Hole" is in the bottom and use the shortest set-screw I can find at Lowes (10-32 is the thread pattern iirc). Drill the hole, knock the sight back off coat the barrel with some red loctite (Provides a moisture barrier as well as a hold.) and knock it back on and align it with the divot you drilled for the Set-Screw. Screw in the set screw. Screw will NOT come out when you have a brake on. I do blue loctite the setscrew though. I have the same FSB on my 5.45 and 7.62x39. Happy shootin! Thanks alot, the more info from experienced people the more I learn. I appreciate it! Edited August 9, 2010 by AZG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
re-model 11 Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 basically everything was covered in above posts... FSB flush with the muzzle....make sure it's straight...I use a 3mm bit to drill the FSB pins. if your sight did not come with pins I may a few. My install also had a bit if un finished barrel showing behind the FSB...this was OK as I was dura coating the entire gun anyway. I bet yopu coulkd just airbrush the FSB area and not have to do the whole thing. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted August 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 basically everything was covered in above posts... FSB flush with the muzzle....make sure it's straight...I use a 3mm bit to drill the FSB pins. if your sight did not come with pins I may a few. My install also had a bit if un finished barrel showing behind the FSB...this was OK as I was dura coating the entire gun anyway. I bet yopu coulkd just airbrush the FSB area and not have to do the whole thing. Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted August 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2010 (edited) Do I need to go hammer it down to where the shiny metal is not showing or is flush with the tip of the barrel correct and I just need to apply some paint? Now does anyone know a good way to properly index the FSB so I know its centered? After I have it indexed ive read that im supposed to drill 2 holes in the lower part of the FSB near the bayonet lug. When drilling, will I drill into the barrel, obviously not through it but just enough so that the pins will hold it in place? or am I not supposed to touch the barrel at all? I have a 3/32 Drill bit that came with the FSBs. And just one more question. On the bottom of the FSB where the threads are ive noticed a hole, what is this for? It won't matter, if the end of the barrel and block are flush but metal is showing, just keep it there and touch up the little metal spot with some paint. I use dental floss tied to the buttstock, notched into the rear sight, and then pulled to the tip of the front sight, then I eyeball it a few times, then take it to the range for a real sight in. I would recommend making sure that it is sighted in perfectly and then scratch a mark, take it home and then do the drilling. Yes, the drill bits will go through the block, and a little bit of the barrel making a groove, and that will make your pins hold it on. I am not sure why it has that hole, I am thinking it is to screw a set screw in to hold it in place on the gun temporarily for when you sight it in and then drill, to keep it from flying off? Or it is possibly for a set screw or pin, for permanent brake attachment in ban states. Or maybe both. EDIT: Mine had that same hole, I got it from AKPartsKits. I got a cleaning rod with my saiga when I bought it but when I tried to put it in the bayonet lug hole for the cleaning rod and its pretty tight. Tight enough to where I would have to hit it with a hammer for it to go in. Is this normal? should it be that tight of a fit? is there a fix for it? Do I need a different cleaning rod? Edited August 12, 2010 by AZG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted August 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 (edited) Ok, im makeing alil progress here and there. I do have another question if anyone would be so kind as to give me their advice:rolleyes: I have two cleaning rods that I just purchased to go with my two FSB that I bought . The rods do not fit into the cleaning rod hole. I was wondering what I should do. Not use the cleaning rods at all? Drill out the holes just a bit so they fit? or last resort: find cleaning rods that fit without modification? And the rods are 15.75" long which from what I can tell should go into the receiver just a bit, is this correct? Thanks to anyone who helps. Greg Edited August 19, 2010 by AZG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Klassy Kalashnikov 1,393 Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 AZG sorry I did not see your post until now. I am not sure why it is not fitting into the vleaning rod hole but unfortunately I am of no help. I had to cut that entire thing off on mine because the cleaning rod hole also has the accessory lug on it which would be illegal in my state. It would have been possible to just cut the "ears" off but I go by the words "better safe that sorry" so I just grind the whole thing off. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gregomega 929 Posted August 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 AZG sorry I did not see your post until now. I am not sure why it is not fitting into the vleaning rod hole but unfortunately I am of no help. I had to cut that entire thing off on mine because the cleaning rod hole also has the accessory lug on it which would be illegal in my state. It would have been possible to just cut the "ears" off but I go by the words "better safe that sorry" so I just grind the whole thing off. Thats ok, I understand, no problem. I appreciate it and value your time anyways. Having someone try to help is better than no one helping at all. Thanks again man. Greg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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