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Thinking of Putting Magpul PRS on My S308


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sorry im so late getting back to you, havent been on here in a while. I have all the same parts as you, infact mine is even LESS secure screw wise and thought the same thing you do. i bought the CSS block, but i also modified my rifle for an AR trigger guard which mounts differently and doesnt allow a pistol grip nut like on normal conversions...the pistol grip instead attaches directly to the trigger guard. When i asked greg he had told me putting my pistol grip nut on top of the block along with the top mounting screw is plenty secure if i dont have the holes drilled.

 

I might be secure enough for most stocks, but the PRS is a friggin' beast heft-wise! When the recoil kicks it back, it just wants to pop that thing out. What made it come out a few mm for me, was probably when I dumped a mag off the hip at the end of my shooting session. As I mentioned, I really tightened the hell out of everything and did use LocTite. Doesn't seem to be enough, at least not for off the hip shooting. Well, there is one way I could get in on tighter... The way that the MD Arms Molot grip is designed, the screw head starts going right through the plastic base on the bottom if you screw it in too tight. I've ruined the plastic base on one of them before, by tightening the screw until it went all the way through the plastic! LOL. Mike was nice enough to send me another base. I am thinking that, in this case, if I used some kind of a spacer/washer, to more evenly distribute the pressure on that plastic base, I could get the grip screw tighter, without going through the base.

 

However there is no way i was relying on the top screw alone. my solution, i JB welded the shit out of it. covered the whole reciever block with the JB weld, stuck it in there and tightened the top screw as tight as it will go. i had some wobbling before, but after that there is absolutely no movement anywhere. Of course, it is now likely permanently attached, so im not sure if thats what you want, but i dont plan on ever changing out the stock. i havent put it under any excessive punishment or shooting, but ive put a few rounds through it with no problems...and i wouldnt expect the top screw along with excessive help from JB weld to fail.

 

Yeah, the top screw alone is definitely not enough, especially considering how it goes through that free-floating washer, instead of a tapped hole. The JB Weld solution is a bit too messy and permanent for my tastes. I would rather just drill a couple of holes on the side of the receiver here. I think that's what I am going to do here, once my buddy with a drill press gets back in town.

 

By the way, I considered a folding mechanism, but decided against it. It adds another point of failure for the PRS' heft to work its "magic" on, while it swings on there. Plus, I plan on always keeping something attached to the optics side mount, preventing the stock from folding all the way. I actually just went ahead and ordered this part:

http://www.mississip...tock-p-814.html

 

Glad to hear you cut off the tang. im not a fan of external blocks. i have an external block with Tapco T6 stock on my 7.62 (not the one with built in PG), and i like it, but like you said, it doesnt feel comfortable. ill probably eventually take that thing off and cut the tang on that one too.

 

You know, I am having regrets about cutting that tang. I kind of wish I just kept that Choate drag stock on there. Without the tang, I also lost the option of using a Beryl mount in the future.

 

As far as external blocks, I have one built into my K-Var triangle folder that's on my SGL21. That stock actually ends up being the perfect length for me and offers good ergonomics and cheek-weld. The only problem I have with it is the "looks". The external block definitely made the PRS sit too far back though, but then again, it could only be because my PRS is the AR10 version, with the cheek rest sitting further back...

I used this block and have put about 900 rounds down range with it. I did sink a screw through the block to the buffer tube to make sure it didnt twist or move.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TUSJZM/ref=oss_product

DSC_0132-1.jpg

Edited by deadon
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sorry im so late getting back to you, havent been on here in a while. I have all the same parts as you, infact mine is even LESS secure screw wise and thought the same thing you do. i bought the CSS block, but i also modified my rifle for an AR trigger guard which mounts differently and doesnt allow a pistol grip nut like on normal conversions...the pistol grip instead attaches directly to the trigger guard. When i asked greg he had told me putting my pistol grip nut on top of the block along with the top mounting screw is plenty secure if i dont have the holes drilled.

 

I might be secure enough for most stocks, but the PRS is a friggin' beast heft-wise! When the recoil kicks it back, it just wants to pop that thing out. What made it come out a few mm for me, was probably when I dumped a mag off the hip at the end of my shooting session. As I mentioned, I really tightened the hell out of everything and did use LocTite. Doesn't seem to be enough, at least not for off the hip shooting. Well, there is one way I could get in on tighter... The way that the MD Arms Molot grip is designed, the screw head starts going right through the plastic base on the bottom if you screw it in too tight. I've ruined the plastic base on one of them before, by tightening the screw until it went all the way through the plastic! LOL. Mike was nice enough to send me another base. I am thinking that, in this case, if I used some kind of a spacer/washer, to more evenly distribute the pressure on that plastic base, I could get the grip screw tighter, without going through the base.

 

However there is no way i was relying on the top screw alone. my solution, i JB welded the shit out of it. covered the whole reciever block with the JB weld, stuck it in there and tightened the top screw as tight as it will go. i had some wobbling before, but after that there is absolutely no movement anywhere. Of course, it is now likely permanently attached, so im not sure if thats what you want, but i dont plan on ever changing out the stock. i havent put it under any excessive punishment or shooting, but ive put a few rounds through it with no problems...and i wouldnt expect the top screw along with excessive help from JB weld to fail.

 

Yeah, the top screw alone is definitely not enough, especially considering how it goes through that free-floating washer, instead of a tapped hole. The JB Weld solution is a bit too messy and permanent for my tastes. I would rather just drill a couple of holes on the side of the receiver here. I think that's what I am going to do here, once my buddy with a drill press gets back in town.

 

By the way, I considered a folding mechanism, but decided against it. It adds another point of failure for the PRS' heft to work its "magic" on, while it swings on there. Plus, I plan on always keeping something attached to the optics side mount, preventing the stock from folding all the way. I actually just went ahead and ordered this part:

http://www.mississippiautoarms.com/saiga-internal-stock-adapter-for-ar-stock-p-814.html

 

Glad to hear you cut off the tang. im not a fan of external blocks. i have an external block with Tapco T6 stock on my 7.62 (not the one with built in PG), and i like it, but like you said, it doesnt feel comfortable. ill probably eventually take that thing off and cut the tang on that one too.

 

You know, I am having regrets about cutting that tang. I kind of wish I just kept that Choate drag stock on there. Without the tang, I also lost the option of using a Beryl mount in the future.

 

As far as external blocks, I have one built into my K-Var triangle folder that's on my SGL21. That stock actually ends up being the perfect length for me and offers good ergonomics and cheek-weld. The only problem I have with it is the "looks". The external block definitely made the PRS sit too far back though, but then again, it could only be because my PRS is the AR10 version, with the cheek rest sitting further back...

 

Yep, i figured the permanent thing might be a problem with the JB weld. Some people like to change their rifles, i just tend to modify them and leave them that way. To each his own. To me, the JB weld was the simplest idea and very secure. i just hate drilling holes through my rifle, and as sketchy as this AR/AK/ACR conversion went....i really just dont want to make any more waves if you know what i mean. But some people also voted for Periello, but i think he's a dick. So once again, to each his own. (being the day after elections, i had to put a joke in there, sorry.)

 

I believe mine is an AR10 version too. im not too sure, i swapped from site to site so much i kept losing track of which it was. I started out modeling this rifle after a NTW 20 sniper rifle. Now, realistically, your not going to make a Saiga even remotely resemble a NTW, but it was the inspiration anyway. from there i just decided that my best option to get closest was to make it look as close to an AR as possible. so that took a turn. The PRS was an attempt at the NTW stock. From that point i decided to step away from the irrational NTW and aim towards the Barret 50. that worked out a lot better...then i just started trying to make my AR incorporate a lot of different rifles i like's ideas. The ACR folding stock for example. The only thing that didnt work out is a tubular forearm...which i am still hunting for, but the rail system i put on it will get me through hunting season. The thing that made me make such an abomination of an AK was all the PSL's i see. EVERYONE makes a PSL, and i got bored of it and wanted something no one else has. Just personal preference, and i suppose i succeeded because almost everyone that sees it says it looks like a Barrett (or it's little brother). So i was aiming at uniqueness with my rifle, so that pretty much explains the weird mods i made to mine.

 

P.S. I was bummed about the beryl too. Classic AK mounts are fine, but i just wanted to avoid it.

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