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JT Engineering Competiton brake


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I did some searching here, but came up short except just couple threads about it.

 

Is anyone using it here? I was thinking about cutting my barrel and bringing the OAL to 18 with the JT break permanently attached...

 

I don't 'need' it but it would be nice to get something that would help me control the the shotgun, and make it look mean :)

 

I did see their magwell video with the brake attached, and it seemed to do a good job, but I'd like to know someone that used it and how much quicker it was to reacquire targets...

 

If it's not worth it and it's a little improvement, I'll probably just spend that money on a polychoke II or buy more ammo and keep the regular nut on it :)

 

Thanks!

 

ps. this isn't a compeition gun, or anything like that. it's a SHTF and a fun gun to take to the range :)

 

Oh, and what's the length of this brake?

Edited by taseal
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I did some searching here, but came up short except just couple threads about it.

 

Is anyone using it here? I was thinking about cutting my barrel and bringing the OAL to 18 with the JT break permanently attached...

 

I don't 'need' it but it would be nice to get something that would help me control the the shotgun, and make it look mean :)

 

I did see their magwell video with the brake attached, and it seemed to do a good job, but I'd like to know someone that used it and how much quicker it was to reacquire targets...

 

If it's not worth it and it's a little improvement, I'll probably just spend that money on a polychoke II or buy more ammo and keep the regular nut on it :)

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

ps. this isn't a compeition gun, or anything like that. it's a SHTF and a fun gun to take to the range :)

 

Oh, and what's the length of this brake?

 

Get with Greg at Carolina Shooters Supply.

 

Jack

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I did some searching here, but came up short except just couple threads about it.

 

Is anyone using it here? I was thinking about cutting my barrel and bringing the OAL to 18 with the JT break permanently attached...

 

I don't 'need' it but it would be nice to get something that would help me control the the shotgun, and make it look mean :)

 

 

 

The brake works. Seems to work better w/ slugs than with buckshot.. I'd guesstimate there is 25 or 30% reduction with slugs, and a 10% reduction w/ buck.

 

I don't use mine.. makes things too long. If/when I get the barrel cut down, I'll get it fixed in place. Or maybe use a Tromix monster brake.

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Well mine is getting cut so the OAL will be 18.2 with whatever brake that goes on it...

 

I've looked at the Tromix monster and that thing looks HUGE. it's 6 inches inches long, so my barrel will be 12 inches. Is that too short? (the gas port will be adjusted properly) I know alot of guys sun SBS, but i'm thinking if it's a 12 inch barrel, I might loose alot of velocity/energy at around 100 yards? with the JTE, it'll be at around 15 inches still... This is a HD/SHTF gun, so I doubt I'll be taking 100 yards with a shotgun, but 100 yards should be pretty acceptable

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Well mine is getting cut so the OAL will be 18.2 with whatever brake that goes on it...

 

I've looked at the Tromix monster and that thing looks HUGE. it's 6 inches inches long, so my barrel will be 12 inches. Is that too short? (the gas port will be adjusted properly) I know alot of guys sun SBS, but i'm thinking if it's a 12 inch barrel, I might loose alot of velocity/energy at around 100 yards? with the JTE, it'll be at around 15 inches still... This is a HD/SHTF gun, so I doubt I'll be taking 100 yards with a shotgun, but 100 yards should be pretty acceptable

 

post-19378-0-70029200-1290743479_thumb.jpg

 

I'd say 3.8"'s, 3 7/8"

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Indeed, but it'll also increase barrel wobble while trying to acquire a target after some time. :)

 

Man, it's such a hard decision LOL... I've seen pics and both look really good. I wonder how much diff would be there between Monster and JTE

 

Remember you are shooting a smooth bore semi auto 12 guage shotgun. Barrel wobble doesnt mean anything if what your aquiring is within 30 yards. Slap a vertical grip on the summa bitch and make sure as to point your finger down the handguard/foregrip and that will help big time on any "barrel wobble" which will be almost non existant. It's not a gym weight your attaching to your barrel, it's an effective muzzle brake, and most of the SHTF "tacticool" s12's aren't really/nessecarily "meant" to be light weights.

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it does look effin badass. I guess it's worth the extra 80 dollars lol, once I get it, there is no changing to something else, this thing will be ON that sumbitch lol

 

not gonna lie, i'm looking for something effective and badass. both are effective, one has to be more badass than the other lol

Edited by taseal
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Did some reading on the monster... This is what Tony says...<br /><br />

Back on the subject.......I took out a few guns today and test fired the two new brakes. The Competition brake worked well...about 15% recoil reduction (my guess) and no blast in the face with a 19" gun. No wad strikes in the comp either. However, the shark brake has about the same recoil reduction to it, albeit, you'll get some wad strikes with some shells.

 

The MONSTER Comp surprised me a bit. The recoil reduction was about 20% and the blast off the 19" barrel was very noticable. It felt like shooting an 8" gun with the Shark on it. Clearly, the longer brake was really putting the gas back, much more then the shorter brakes......and there were no wad strikes on it either.Tony RumoreTromix Corp<br />

<br /><br />With a 12 inch barrel I'm not sure if this is the brake I'm looking for lol...

 

Btw, what's a wad strike?

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Btw, what's a wad strike?

 

Its when the wad/shotcup strikes the inside of the brake on its way out the barrel. Some early versions of the Shark Brake had this problem and had a nasty habit of pelting innocent bystanders with hot plastic shavings :cryss:. Tony has since corrected this issue by slightly increasing the internal diameter of the brake.

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Well mine is getting cut so the OAL will be 18.2 with whatever brake that goes on it...

 

I've looked at the Tromix monster and that thing looks HUGE. it's 6 inches inches long, so my barrel will be 12 inches. Is that too short? (the gas port will be adjusted properly) I know alot of guys sun SBS, but i'm thinking if it's a 12 inch barrel, I might loose alot of velocity/energy at around 100 yards? with the JTE, it'll be at around 15 inches still... This is a HD/SHTF gun, so I doubt I'll be taking 100 yards with a shotgun, but 100 yards should be pretty acceptable

 

With respect, this way of thinking doesn't make much sense to me when talking about a shotgun.

 

The absolute max useful range on a smoothbore shotgun is 100 yds.. and that is pushing it. Sure, plenty of guys HUNT at that range and maybe a bit beyond with sluggers, and thats fine. But deer don't shoot back, and you can take your time lining up a shot on Bambi as she takes a drink of water.

 

For HD, you don't need a 100yd shot. For close range/close quarters work, you want a short weapon with plenty of spread. You want a SBS, preferrably without a brake - but legal issues being what they are, the brake may be needed.

 

For a SHTF scenario where your targets are shooting back, if you're looking at 100 yd engagement range, a shotgun is a poor choice if you can only have one weapon. A deer will stand out in the open, and give you a huge chest cavity as a target. A human will be hiding behind cover, laying down prone, shooting back, and presenting small targets.

 

If you want ONE weapon for HD, and SHTF use @ 100 yds or beyond, I would say to get a 16" carbine. For HD in most common rifle calibers you can get frangible ammo for safety/wall penetration issues; and of course outdoors you can use hunting ammo to devastating effect out to 200yds, or much more depending on the gun and caliber. You are MUCH more likely to make a headshot @ 100yds on the bad guy peeking out by using a rifle; especially when your nerves are a wreck.

 

I chose a 16" M1A SOCOM for this role; mostly for parts/mag compatibility with my full-size match-grade M1A. I would not hesitate to choose a 16" Saiga rifle either. Any caliber offered is fine for 100yd shooting.

 

Of course, the "one gun" theory is the problem here. At less than 50yds, the shotgun is a huge advantage because you can use actual SHOT. It starts becoming a liability out past 75yds, and then you have to start slinging slugs; which it won't do with all that much accuracy or velocity, and you have the weight/capacity penalty. At 100 yds, you are trying to use your shotgun like a rifle, and anyone using a rifle will have a huge advantage over you. An enemy using .223 will be more agile, able to get back on target for follow-up shots FAR faster than you with 12ga slugs, and is less likely to miss to begin with.

 

The shotgun is a special-purpose tool - build your shotgun for HD at ranges of 0-50yds. Get a carbine for 50-300 yds. Get a sub-MOA full-size rifle for 300yds and up.

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Well mine is getting cut so the OAL will be 18.2 with whatever brake that goes on it...

 

I've looked at the Tromix monster and that thing looks HUGE. it's 6 inches inches long, so my barrel will be 12 inches. Is that too short? (the gas port will be adjusted properly) I know alot of guys sun SBS, but i'm thinking if it's a 12 inch barrel, I might loose alot of velocity/energy at around 100 yards? with the JTE, it'll be at around 15 inches still... This is a HD/SHTF gun, so I doubt I'll be taking 100 yards with a shotgun, but 100 yards should be pretty acceptable

 

With respect, this way of thinking doesn't make much sense to me when talking about a shotgun.

 

The absolute max useful range on a smoothbore shotgun is 100 yds.. and that is pushing it. Sure, plenty of guys HUNT at that range and maybe a bit beyond with sluggers, and thats fine. But deer don't shoot back, and you can take your time lining up a shot on Bambi as she takes a drink of water.

 

For HD, you don't need a 100yd shot. For close range/close quarters work, you want a short weapon with plenty of spread. You want a SBS, preferrably without a brake - but legal issues being what they are, the brake may be needed.

 

For a SHTF scenario where your targets are shooting back, if you're looking at 100 yd engagement range, a shotgun is a poor choice if you can only have one weapon. A deer will stand out in the open, and give you a huge chest cavity as a target. A human will be hiding behind cover, laying down prone, shooting back, and presenting small targets.

 

If you want ONE weapon for HD, and SHTF use @ 100 yds or beyond, I would say to get a 16" carbine. For HD in most common rifle calibers you can get frangible ammo for safety/wall penetration issues; and of course outdoors you can use hunting ammo to devastating effect out to 200yds, or much more depending on the gun and caliber. You are MUCH more likely to make a headshot @ 100yds on the bad guy peeking out by using a rifle; especially when your nerves are a wreck.

 

I chose a 16" M1A SOCOM for this role; mostly for parts/mag compatibility with my full-size match-grade M1A. I would not hesitate to choose a 16" Saiga rifle either. Any caliber offered is fine for 100yd shooting.

 

Of course, the "one gun" theory is the problem here. At less than 50yds, the shotgun is a huge advantage because you can use actual SHOT. It starts becoming a liability out past 75yds, and then you have to start slinging slugs; which it won't do with all that much accuracy or velocity, and you have the weight/capacity penalty. At 100 yds, you are trying to use your shotgun like a rifle, and anyone using a rifle will have a huge advantage over you. An enemy using .223 will be more agile, able to get back on target for follow-up shots FAR faster than you with 12ga slugs, and is less likely to miss to begin with.

 

The shotgun is a special-purpose tool - build your shotgun for HD at ranges of 0-50yds. Get a carbine for 50-300 yds. Get a sub-MOA full-size rifle for 300yds and up.

 

You're right, I already have a pretty slick AR15 that I can use for anything out to 300+ with. I just figured it'd be nice to have a shotgun capable of such long shots. perhaps the rifle look of this thing got me steered in that direction...

 

I decided I'm gonna go with the JTE one. The monster is just too big for my tastes, maybe if it was the same price as a JTE, i might have gone with it.... I think the JTE will be a good in between a warthog and a monster brake. just what I want...

 

Thanks guys

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You're right, I already have a pretty slick AR15 that I can use for anything out to 300+ with. I just figured it'd be nice to have a shotgun capable of such long shots. perhaps the rifle look of this thing got me steered in that direction...

 

I decided I'm gonna go with the JTE one. The monster is just too big for my tastes, maybe if it was the same price as a JTE, i might have gone with it.... I think the JTE will be a good in between a warthog and a monster brake. just what I want...

 

Thanks guys

 

Oh, well if you already have an AR, then you're set. I can see how you'd want the Saiga to fill as many roles as possible - its just too sweet to ever want to put it down :) .. but realistically, for 100yds out, grab the AR so that you can live to pick the Saiga back up.

 

When I get my Saiga cut down, I'll be debating the JTE/Monster set up just like you. I have a JTE already; so I'll likely go that route just because of the bread .. but a shorter barrel w/ the monster would be best, as it will give the most spread.

 

OTOH, I may just skip the whole thing and just get a SBS made and pay the tax.

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I don't feel like dealing with all the hassles of the stupid NFA paperwork... I gotta find a CLEO to sign it off and stuff, and I don't wanna spend extra money on a NFA trust fun. it's just too much PITA.

 

Shorter barrel with the monster was what I was going to do, but from what I've read you can actually feel the backblast (a puff of air I guess) when you shoot the thing because all that gas is coming backwards to the side and rear... plus, it's very expensive. it does look badass though. I think between a normal tromix brake, and the monster, the JTE is the perfect brake.

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I don't feel like dealing with all the hassles of the stupid NFA paperwork... I gotta find a CLEO to sign it off and stuff, and I don't wanna spend extra money on a NFA trust fun. it's just too much PITA.

 

Shorter barrel with the monster was what I was going to do, but from what I've read you can actually feel the backblast (a puff of air I guess) when you shoot the thing because all that gas is coming backwards to the side and rear... plus, it's very expensive. it does look badass though. I think between a normal tromix brake, and the monster, the JTE is the perfect brake.

 

Well, the trust would only have to be set up once.. after that, and you just have to pay the taxes. I hear ya about it being a PITA - but that just makes want NFA items all the more. I don't do well with folks telling me what to do, not do, etc. But I have a naturally defiant personality.

 

Backblast isn't that big of a deal.. just think of it as a kiss from your sexy Russian beauty :) .. in all honesty, I would think you might get some backblast from the JTE as well. Any brake that works is going to give you some backblast if the barrel is shortened up enough.. maybe just cutting off the few inches that the JTE needs wouldn't make it that noticable? I'm not really sure.

 

But as for the price.. I wouldn't let that sway you. You're looking at $150 or so charge from a gunsmith to get the work done.. plus the $90 for the JTE. You're now in for $240 (not counting any shipping charges). At that point, I'd rather just go the full $300 and get the best recoil reduction there is.

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I don't feel like dealing with all the hassles of the stupid NFA paperwork... I gotta find a CLEO to sign it off and stuff, and I don't wanna spend extra money on a NFA trust fun. it's just too much PITA.

 

Shorter barrel with the monster was what I was going to do, but from what I've read you can actually feel the backblast (a puff of air I guess) when you shoot the thing because all that gas is coming backwards to the side and rear... plus, it's very expensive. it does look badass though. I think between a normal tromix brake, and the monster, the JTE is the perfect brake.

 

Well, the trust would only have to be set up once.. after that, and you just have to pay the taxes. I hear ya about it being a PITA - but that just makes want NFA items all the more. I don't do well with folks telling me what to do, not do, etc. But I have a naturally defiant personality.

 

Backblast isn't that big of a deal.. just think of it as a kiss from your sexy Russian beauty :) .. in all honesty, I would think you might get some backblast from the JTE as well. Any brake that works is going to give you some backblast if the barrel is shortened up enough.. maybe just cutting off the few inches that the JTE needs wouldn't make it that noticable? I'm not really sure.

 

But as for the price.. I wouldn't let that sway you. You're looking at $150 or so charge from a gunsmith to get the work done.. plus the $90 for the JTE. You're now in for $240 (not counting any shipping charges). At that point, I'd rather just go the full $300 and get the best recoil reduction there is.

 

 

hmmm.... I have until tomorrow to decide.

 

so far everyone has said 'if you're going to do this once, or 'If I had to do it again' I would put on the Monster brake on there

 

I should have made a poll lol... maybe I'll start a thread about that now lol.

 

This isn't a compeittion gun, it will be HD mainly, but how many times will I use it for HD? it'll still be my only shotgun that I'll take to the range and probably shoot couple hundred rounds through it that day along with friends shooting it and looking at it in awe.

 

let me start a poll I can't fucking decide. I keep leaning over to the monster brake but the damn price and the size of the thing :lolol:

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let me start a poll I can't fucking decide. I keep leaning over to the monster brake but the damn price and the size of the thing :lolol:

 

lol. I know you how feel dude. I'm in a similar boat with my M1A SOCOM. The sights on that gun just don't work for me.. front blade is far too thick (huge tritium vile in it); I just can't get a repeatable sight picture. Trouble is, the front sight on the SOCOM isn't the same height as the other M1A models. On top of that the gas lock/sight base/muzzle brake on the SOCOM is all one piece. So, to switch to a different front sight, I have to buy a new gas lock with a higher sight base which is threaded for a separate brake. But then I need a 5/8x24 brake or flash suppressor, and of course the new sight. Depending on how I do it, I'm looking at a cost of about $200 if I do it "cheap" to as much as $300 if I want a thinner tritium front sight.

 

For that money, I could get another FFII.

 

I keep going back and forth. I like the FFII - I did put it on my SOCOM briefly and it tightened my groups right up; but I really want to keep the SOCOM set to run with no batteries required, and that means a decent front sight.

 

I have a feeling I'll end up waiting until I have a bit more cash ready to burn, and I'll get the SOCOM sight kit, along with a threaded base for my Loaded M1A as well. That way I can start a whole collection of 5/8x24 brakes and flash suppressors that I can swap around between them. :) .. hmm, the advantage there is that in a few weeks I'll be living in FL. Pretty sure sound suppressors are legal there.. perfect chance to get an NFA trust going for the SBS Saiga AND a silencer for the M1A's!

 

Christ.. I'm gonna be broke in 2011 guys!!

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I have the JTE Comp. Brake #1 attached with the barrel chopped to 18.5" and l have to say it is a mean looking gun. Most people think its some kind of assault rifle when they see it for the 1st time. All my parts came from Greg at C.S.S. except the rear pistol grip. Overall l'm happy with the JTE brake, my gun shoots smoother, but that probably has more to do with all the added weight, and less to do with the brake.

post-27191-0-14835700-1291128586_thumb.jpg

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