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Does anyone have the AR Style trigger guard?


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I'm wondering if it's a decent product. The AK isn't known for ergonomics, but I question if an AR grip would be right for the gun. I'm debating which trigger guard to get and I like the idea of that one with an MOE AR grip.

 

I've only been looking at billet and machined trigger guards because I like the idea of a more solid base / less potential to twist. Although I do know that it's bolting up to flat sheet metal so if it wants to twist/flex it will.

 

Is anyone unhappy with this?

http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/-strse-375/Saiga-12-AR-Trigger/Detail

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I'm wondering if it's a decent product. The AK isn't known for ergonomics, but I question if an AR grip would be right for the gun. I'm debating which trigger guard to get and I like the idea of that one with an MOE AR grip.

 

I've only been looking at billet and machined trigger guards because I like the idea of a more solid base / less potential to twist. Although I do know that it's bolting up to flat sheet metal so if it wants to twist/flex it will.

 

Is anyone unhappy with this?

http://store.carolin...-Trigger/Detail

 

I'll give you a free bump as I'm basically in the same boat as you and can't decide which grip/trigger guard combo I want.

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How meat is on that little block that is riveted into the receiver which holds the magazine release?

 

Is there enought to drill and tap it, so that a small socket head cap screw could be used as a safety stop, or to bolt on a safety stop, or would you need to back it with a nut?

Edited by deanald2pt0
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How meat is on that little block that is riveted into the receiver which holds the magazine release?

 

Is there enought to drill and tap it, so that a small socket head cap screw could be used as a safety stop, or to bolt on a safety stop, or would you need to back it with a nut?

 

No rivets, there's no way to get a press on the inside of the receiver where they go through. They're cap screws w/ permanent loctite, then the heads are filled, sanded and then painted (my little custom work :rolleyes: ).

 

you can't put a screw on the side either to act as a safety stop due to the BHO lever on the inside of the receiver. There are some companies that weld a stud to the side, that's the only way I've seen it done.

 

Here's a pic of the rear receiver plate installed:

DSCN1863.JPG

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How meat is on that little block that is riveted into the receiver which holds the magazine release?

 

Is there enought to drill and tap it, so that a small socket head cap screw could be used as a safety stop, or to bolt on a safety stop, or would you need to back it with a nut?

 

No rivets, there's no way to get a press on the inside of the receiver where they go through. They're cap screws w/ permanent loctite, then the heads are filled, sanded and then painted (my little custom work :rolleyes: ).

 

you can't put a screw on the side either to act as a safety stop due to the BHO lever on the inside of the receiver. There are some companies that weld a stud to the side, that's the only way I've seen it done.

 

Here's a pic of the rear receiver plate installed:

DSCN1863.JPG

 

OK, let me clarify. The are two rivets (or pins) that run parallel to the axis pins through the receiver that hold a block that is used to attached the magazine catch. This is the portion I was wondering how much material is there. It's hard to see.

 

Did you tap the receiver, or did you use washers on the inside of your receiver?

 

If there is enough material to tap, this is why I thought it might be possible to drill and tap hole for a socket headed cap screw on the side, which would function similar to a welded on stop.

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OK, let me clarify. The are two rivets (or pins) that run parallel to the axis pins through the receiver that hold a block that is used to attached the magazine catch. This is the portion I was wondering how much material is there. It's hard to see.

 

Did you tap the receiver, or did you use washers on the inside of your receiver?

 

If there is enough material to tap, this is why I thought it might be possible to drill and tap hole for a socket headed cap screw on the side, which would function similar to a welded on stop.

 

I'll see if I can measure the thickness for you. You might get away with tapping it with a fine machine thread to get enough grab on the screw (and then put some permanent loctite in it). There's not a ton of load placed on the selector stop so it might work.

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I bought the Carolina SS trigger guard, cut the rear most portion off which includes the attached grip nut, then just cut a hole in the receiver of my S-12 and used a grip nut. Couldn't be happier with the sturdiness. If you want I can post a picture of what it looks like.

 

I also highly recommend the Hogue Monogrip.

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Yes, a small cap screw can be used as a stop. Secure with red/green loctite, small weld, or if you build AK's you can give it a slight squish with a rivit tool. In any case, after it's set you cut off the excess thread that's inside the receiver and grind flat. Making a small diviot with a "very small" ball endmill gives it a good positive stop set.

post-1866-0-77011500-1296874758_thumb.jpg

Edited by 6500rpm
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