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How far should I thread?


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I recently threaded my barrel to take on 14x1mm LH muzzle brake attachments and I wanted to know how far should I thread? First, does it make a difference? I threaded about halfway between the end of the muzzle brake and front sight block. I was considering doing more, but did not see any advantage to do so. I am currently using a NCstar ak-74 brake which is an exact copy of the Tapco muzzle brake without the "matte" finish. The big concern is that I am purchasing a muzzle brake adapter and want to know if I should thread more to accommodate the adapter.

 

If any one has an adapter on a threaded Saiga, how far did you go?

 

Plus I attached pics of the die I used which had a huge malfunction. Has anyone seen this type of fracture?

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Did you use any sort of cutting oil when you were using the die cutter? Any kind of lubricant works wonders when you are threading metal, I'll bet even motor oil would work.

 

It looks like it started to go off track and cracked/flaked off. How'd the threads come out?

 

Edit to Add: I'd go far enough to have all the threads engage on the muzzle brake. Otherwise, you'll have to clean gunk from the unused threads.

Edited by Graniteer
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Did you use any sort of cutting oil when you were using the die cutter? Any kind of lubricant works wonders when you are threading metal, I'll bet even motor oil would work.

 

It looks like it started to go off track and cracked/flaked off. How'd the threads come out?

 

Edit to Add: I'd go far enough to have all the threads engage on the muzzle brake. Otherwise, you'll have to clean gunk from the unused threads.

 

Graniteer,

 

Thanks for the reply. The brake I have now is a crappy Tapco knockoff, NCstar. The threads allow for the brake to screw all the way to the FSB, so I guess Ill keep cutting. Also, I noticed that my brake screws on "wobbly". It also looks like the brake isnt necessarily "square". I'm taking it to the range today and hopefully I make it back okay. Looks like Ill thread more before I go. The pics show the before threading.

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I'd be nervous about shooting it if it isn't absolutely square.

 

+1. Make sure your brake goes on straight and won't allow the bullet passing through it to contact the edges or you're going to have a bad day.

 

If the threads aren't straight would you consider getting a threaded FSB and stick a real brake on? Used chrome-lined one's aren't any more than $25 or so and have been machined correctly.

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Everything go OK at the range?

 

You did use a TAT when threading the barrel? The break I put on my 7.62 created and optical illusion which made me nervous until the first time out. I looked at it and checked it a bunch of times, figured it would be OK cause I used the TAT. It was fine.

 

You can always put a threaded FSB like Kalashniklown suggested over your cut threads.

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Everything go OK at the range?

 

You did use a TAT when threading the barrel? The break I put on my 7.62 created and optical illusion which made me nervous until the first time out. I looked at it and checked it a bunch of times, figured it would be OK cause I used the TAT. It was fine.

 

You can always put a threaded FSB like Kalashniklown suggested over your cut threads.

 

Unfortunately as the state that dubs itself "The Sportsman's Paradise", I wasnt able to drive 20 miles to the indoor range to shoot my Saiga lol. The access to rifle ranges near me, in New Olreans, is down right aweful! I plan to go either tomorrow when the range opens or wait till next week. I did use a TAT, but for some reason, when I screw my brake on, it goes lob sided and then straightens itself out. I think this might be due to a slight pitch when I started threading. I don't think that the rifle is dangerous because the brake is rated for 7.62, but like you said, their is an optical illusion that makes the muzzle path look awfully close to the brake.

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I'd be nervous about shooting it if it isn't absolutely square.

 

+1. Make sure your brake goes on straight and won't allow the bullet passing through it to contact the edges or you're going to have a bad day.

 

If the threads aren't straight would you consider getting a threaded FSB and stick a real brake on? Used chrome-lined one's aren't any more than $25 or so and have been machined correctly.

 

Putting a whole new FSB does seem too difficult, but I am more concerned with sighting the rifle in correctly after installation. Currently, my rifle was sighted correctly coming straight from Izhmash. Also, is the accepted method to removing and installing a new FSB the same as the one posted atop the Saiga 5.45 thread?

 

BTW... Where can I find a chrome lined used brake for $25? I have an adapter coming soon for 24x1.5mm.

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You can pick up the brakes for as little as $40 on Gunbroker if you watch. I need to keep an eye out again. I saw some really nice East German ones for $40 a few weeks ago. I kinda wished I got one then.

 

Let me know too :rolleyes:

 

BTW I am selling the die posted on top of the thread. I will ask 20 (includes shipping) if anyone is interested. It still works, but obviously on one side of the die...

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Where are you seeing the FSB for $25?

 

Just be resourcefull. Join AKfiles(daht)com and browse through the marketplace thread. There's a ton of builders on there and they sell inexpensive used parts. I got 2 Bulgy brakes for $50 and my threaded FSB for $45 and have sold bunches of miscellaneous parts myself.

 

Putting a whole new FSB does seem too difficult, but I am more concerned with sighting the rifle in correctly after installation.[/i
]

 

Plumb it up and align it with a string, then use a front sight tool for fine-tuning, if it even needs it.

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