Buck Snaked 0 Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 Did a search and came up with less than optimal results. I just did a 308 conversion. G2 trigger (kit from CSS) All went in easily enough. Trigger felt like it was DRAGGING all the way through through the pull. I don't have a trigger gauge. There is NO take up. When I manually cock the hammer, there is only one click as the hammer is caught by the disconnector. There is no second click of the sear. When I pull the trigger, I can see the disconnector move but the sear never comes into play. The disconector just releases. This one also has the safety issue where the safety lever does not work after the conversion. I have an X39 that I converted with no problems. Bad fgc? When I take things apart, I take notes and pics to make sure things go back like they are supposed to but I've still buggered things up. Thank you all for your help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SOPMOD 254 Posted February 20, 2011 Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 Did a search and came up with less than optimal results. I just did a 308 conversion. G2 trigger (kit from CSS) All went in easily enough. Trigger felt like it was DRAGGING all the way through through the pull. I don't have a trigger gauge. There is NO take up. When I manually cock the hammer, there is only one click as the hammer is caught by the disconnector. There is no second click of the sear. When I pull the trigger, I can see the disconnector move but the sear never comes into play. The disconector just releases. This one also has the safety issue where the safety lever does not work after the conversion. I have an X39 that I converted with no problems. Bad fgc? When I take things apart, I take notes and pics to make sure things go back like they are supposed to but I've still buggered things up. Thank you all for your help. take some pics for us pull the trigger all the way back and hold it while cocking the hammer.Did the sear hold the hammer securely?Release the trigger from it's fully depressed condition and see if the trigger catches the hammer. You could have something under the hammer so it can't go fully into it's resting position where it catches the hammer after releasing from the sear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brokenfeather 2 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 I just completed my first 308 with a conversion kit from CSS. Do what SOPMOD suggested about the the trigger engagement. As far as the safety, check out the gallery for (MY 308) it shows a picture of the mod I had to do to my safety. According to Greg at CSS the safety on the 308 was cut shorter than the standard AK safety. The suggestion he made was get a standard AK safety or weld up the old one. I chose to weld up the old one because I had a welder available so that was the route I went. It resolved the problem. I hope this helps. Go luck Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SOPMOD 254 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 check under your trigger to make sure there is no rivet,screw or other impediment to the trigger coming to a full rest or full depression stroke. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CJS3 3 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 I just completed my first 308 with a conversion kit from CSS. Do what SOPMOD suggested about the the trigger engagement. As far as the safety, check out the gallery for (MY 308) it shows a picture of the mod I had to do to my safety. According to Greg at CSS the safety on the 308 was cut shorter than the standard AK safety. The suggestion he made was get a standard AK safety or weld up the old one. I chose to weld up the old one because I had a welder available so that was the route I went. It resolved the problem. I hope this helps. Go luck Don I just replaced the safety with a standard AK safety. I'm not too good with a welder. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brokenfeather 2 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 How much trigger travel do you have now with the standard safety? With the one I modified I have very little travel. Just courios as to what the difference is. Thanks Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Buck Snaked 0 Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 With the trigger pulled back, the sear catches the hammer. When trigger is released, the hammer snaps up to the disconnector. As I pull the trigger, before the sear contacts the hammer, the disconnector releases the hammer. There is a screw under the hammer for the cast triggerguard but it does not touch the hammer. With the hammer cocked, I can push down on the hammer so there is clearance. Here's the hammer cocked: uncocked: I put the original fcg back in and it looks like it does the same thing. Both are not using the sear! If I wedge the back of the fcg's up a little, the sear almost works. If I push the hammer down just slightly when its' cocked, it works. I'm hoping that I didn't get a "vodka special"! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Ok, have you used an AK FCG before? Because in my reading of your description it sounds like its working correctly. Are you perhaps mixing the directions for an AR-15 FCG with the AK FCG? I'll record a video of my .308 and you can compare it to yours. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Buck Snaked 0 Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 ^^ Thanks! It may very well be that it is how it supposed to work, but why have a sear then? (not trying to sound snarky, I'm not well versed in the AK) I even took the sear out and it still does the same thing! On my X39, when I pull the trigger, the sear makes contact with the back of the hammer and pushes the hammer off the disconnector. On this 308, the sear never even touches the hammer. I do not have an extensive AK background so any and all info is appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Sorry got derailed between taking the video and posting it. video. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brokenfeather 2 Posted February 22, 2011 Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 Thanks for the video. I enjoyed the information. I was reasonably sure that was how it worked and this verified it. Don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Buck Snaked 0 Posted February 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 Can somebody out there look into their 308 to see if their sear is actually making contact with the hammer as you pull the trigger? Please? Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brokenfeather 2 Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 Hope the photos help. I pm'd you earlier. Still willing to help out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Buck Snaked 0 Posted February 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 (edited) OK, these pics really help! Thank you! I see where I had gone wrong, I'm using the wrong terminology. Now I "get" the question about AK and AR FGC's. Everything I asked about in first post discribes my problem but I should have said trigger hook(front hook) vs disconecctor and disconecctor(rear hook) vs sear. I feel like an idiot. It would appear that my disconnector is waaay further back than your disconnector. It looks like if I grind the front bottom of the disconecctor, it will close the wide gap. Do these trigger groups require a little fitting? I had thought that these were drop in but hey, I shouldn't assume. Edited February 24, 2011 by Penzanse Quote Link to post Share on other sites
csspecs 1,987 Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 My understanding is that the only job of the rear hook is to transfer the hammer to the front hook.. Gap is meaningless provided it does not allow the hammer to pass through the gap as you release the trigger. If you trim them it could possibly cause the hammer to bind on the top of the rear hook.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brokenfeather 2 Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 You put in a Modified G2 from CSS correct? Did you install the spring under the disconnector/spring loaded rear hook? Is the distance between the hooks of the two assembled FCGs the same? The new one and the old one? The G2 that I got from CSS was ready to go, just drop in. The only thing I did was polish the trigger hook where it makes contact with the hammer. No further fitting should be necessary. Remember if you move the hammer back to engage the trigger, the trigger hook is the only one that will engage unless you pull back on the trigger. With the trigger pulled back the disconnector or rear hook will engage. As you let off the trigger the trigger hook should catch the hammer preventing the hammer for slamming forward. OK BTW I sent you my phone number. Check the top right hand corner of the screen and see if there is a number by you login status. If you still want help give me a call. I'm really a reasonable old nice guy. We'll get this resolved. Patience shall prevail. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Buck Snaked 0 Posted February 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 OK, just got this link from someone: http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/notes/notesak/aktrigger/pageaktrigger.shtml This article is in reference to Hammer Follow but I can see where my prob is from this. My hook to hook gap is .425 on my 308 tapco G2. It is .398 on the factory FGC. Looks like for 308's some fitting may be required. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brokenfeather 2 Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 That was an awesome report. I just put my old FCG back together and I'm going to measure it. They are different but don't know how much yet. Later I still say don't start modifying any thing yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brokenfeather 2 Posted February 24, 2011 Report Share Posted February 24, 2011 New FCG gap is .360 +/-.005 Old FCG is .350 +/- .005. It is kind of had to get an exact measurement because of the slight offset. Why are me seeing such a large difference? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Buck Snaked 0 Posted February 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 I think this may be a case of tolerance stacking for my 308. I only have a mic to measure things so my measurements are crude at best but I don't see any real out of tolerance measurements. I took my working X39 and shimmed up the front of the disconector to increase the gap and I was able to recreate the prob in my 308. I'm going to locate a spare disconector before I grind mine though. This was a very arcane problem (to me anyways). One thing I did find out is that how little I knew about FGC's! I had way too many people tell me "it's an AK/Saiga, that's how they are". Thank you for your help Brokenfeather. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brokenfeather 2 Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 Your welcome. Still sorry I missed your call. I think we would have had a good time. But more so I'm glad you are finally getting results. These things can almost drive us nuts. But all's well that ends well. Good luck and keep us posted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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