RJWesleyIII 7 Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 (edited) So I was messing with my 12 again tonight, thinking of more ways to smooth things out, and I think I took too much off the hammer. The action is defiantly smoother and the trigger resets manually cycling the action. But I did notice than when you keep the trigger pulled, it does not lock under the disconnector, only the hammer. Is it suppose to lock under the disconnector first when you keep the trigger pulled? Im thinking so, but not 100% sure. Did I take too much off? My goal was to have the hammer completely flat where it strikes the firing pin. It was a bit off from being square. now it is perfectly square. If I did take too much off, can I buy the tapco hammer separately? Here is a pic of what I did compared to the stock hammer. Edited March 8, 2011 by WESLEY 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spartacus 1,619 Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 Yeah, that might be a problem.... looks like too much is missing out towards the end. It should be more curved and not so steep. It definitely should lock under the disconnector when you hold the trigger. The disconnector lets go of the hammer to the trigger hook when you let go of the trigger. If it's not doing that, it's not safe to shoot! I was going to say send a note and the pic to Cobra, but I believe he is busy, check his forum to see if he is taking more work. One of the vendors here should be able to help you. You can always put the Russian hammer in with the G2 FCG so you have a functional gun. I've tried that and it works fine, you just lose a little smoothness of the G2 FCG and of course you lose a 922 part. Make sure you manually function test the FCG for safety before running live ammo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RJWesleyIII 7 Posted March 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 Yah I figured I did. I wasn't sure on the part name. So I will edit my post to disconnector instead of sear. Thanks for catching that. What would happen if it didn't lock under the disconnector first when shooting? I will not fire until I put another hammer in it, but just curious. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dandiesel 16 Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 (edited) Not enough force to activate the firing pin because the hammer will just follow the bolt forward and not hit the firing pin with enough force to set off the primer..... So no u will not have a FA weapon. Not that thats what u were after but it's still not safe for obviouse reasons. It will chamber a new round when fired but your trigger (hammer ) will not reset, because the hammer will have already followed the bolt forward. Unless you are letting go of the trigger before the weapon goes into full battery. Any way this Is all hypothetical. As you know it's not safe as is. Also with as much as you took off of the hammer it may not Evan lock completly under the trigger hook. I have noticed that u can do this on some fcg by just pushing the hammer down until it catches on the front of the hook but not under it. That would cause an unexpected discharge if it was dropped or the trigger barely touched. So it's potentially unsafe for several reasons. Edited March 8, 2011 by Dandiesel 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paulyski 2,227 Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 Yes. You took WAY too much off. I check the engagement depth of the sear to the disconnecter of every set I do for this very reason. Pushing the limits on hammer profile is just dangerous. It's very wise of you to have asked before testing the weapon. That setup, if the right variables presented could lead to a slamfire scenario. AKA Kaboom. I am NOT a fan of mixing FCG components by any means, but anything is better than that. I really don't want to seem harsh, but that's scary. Thank you for posting. Many will learn from this thread hopefully. There's a reason the combined parts are called the Fire Control Group. They control the fire. This is not an area a person just wants to "bump their way through". The price of learning could be extremely high. When doing one's own work, they must carefully observe every aspect of what is happening as the weapon cycles. Unfortunately as my sig line used to read "those who don't know don't know they don't know." Therefore the DIY'er MUST carefully study everything before touching anything. Most operational aspects of most firearms perform multiple functions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 I may have an extra Tapco hammer I can properly mod and send you. Send me a PM with your shipping info. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RJWesleyIII 7 Posted March 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 I may have an extra Tapco hammer I can properly mod and send you. Send me a PM with your shipping info. I really appreciate it! But I ordered one earlier this morning. Guess I should have checked my emails, but I got busy at work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RJWesleyIII 7 Posted March 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 Does anyone have a pic of a hammer that is properly profiled? Or should I just polish the new tapco hammer when I get it and be done? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 One of mine... *NOTE* Anyone seeing this pic and trying to use it as a gauge to do their own...DON'T. You can't copy pics on the internet and do the kind of precise work necessary to have a perfect fire control group. I know just how much I can take off before it gets to the point where you run into problems. I test fit every one that I do. I also measure them all during the process so I don't end up with a hammer that won't catch the disconnect. Any hammers I now send out to others, are not taken down to the point where they are in danger of missing the disconnect. You need to have the gun it's going into, in hand to fit it, if you really want the sweetest trigger (and smoothest cycling bolt carrier) that's still functional and safe. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nattyiceking 33 Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 (edited) One of mine... *NOTE* Anyone seeing this pic and trying to use it as a gauge to do their own...DON'T. You can't copy pics on the internet and do the kind of precise work necessary to have a perfect fire control group. I know just how much I can take off before it gets to the point where you run into problems. I test fit every one that I do. I also measure them all during the process so I don't end up with a hammer that won't catch the disconnect. Any hammers I now send out to other's, are not taken down to the point where they are in danger of missing the disconnect. You need to have the gun it's going into, in hand to fit it, if you really want the sweetest trigger that's still safe. Is it necesary to grind down that part of the hammer? If so, for what reason? I'm just curious because I'll be doing a little work on mine within the next couple days Edited March 8, 2011 by nattyiceking Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 Yes, that part needs to be removed from the hammer if it's used in the S-12. If you don't it will hit the cross member support. You also have to remove the thickness of the BHO lever from the right side of the hammer axis. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nattyiceking 33 Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 Well shit, I must of had a massive brain fart. My hammer came from CSS already modified, so that part has already been ground off.. I've completed two conversions already..WTF was I thinking? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RJWesleyIII 7 Posted March 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 Hey cobra, I know I already ordered a hammer, what would you charge for the one you have already profiled like the pic? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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