What constitutes "heavy loads" for gas setting #1 ?

[poser 0]

Are 2-3/4" slugs and 00 considered "heavy" ? Or is setting #1 for 3" loads only?

 

I ask because I use gas setting #2 all the time, mostly shoot cheap #8 birshot and sometimes I shoot slugs or 00 buck. Gun runs 100%. Slugs and 00 seem heavy to me, but are they heavy enough for #1 setting?

 

 

 

 

 

[Paulyski 2,227]

Are 2-3/4" slugs and 00 considered "heavy" ? Or is setting #1 for 3" loads only?

 

I ask because I use gas setting #2 all the time, mostly shoot cheap #8 birshot and sometimes I shoot slugs or 00 buck. Gun runs 100%. Slugs and 00 seem heavy to me, but are they heavy enough for #1 setting?

Yes, slugs & buck should be run on setting 1 to prolong the service life of the weapon.

 

Edit to elaborate;

 

With regards to gas, in Russia, & most of Europe for that matter, they generally don't have weak loads like we do here.

But the American market has quite a bit of the super weak ammo & the public demands to be able to run it.

 

Some just want it to run so they can go plinking on the cheap.

In these uncertain times it's quite therapeutic & empowering to go out shooting in the woods & do 100 rounds worth of MD-20 Drum dumps for around $20.00.

Like I've always said, nothing adds inches to your dick like a drum'ed up S-12.

 

Some want it to run the weak/cheap ammo because they have the S-12 as a potential survival tool & want it to be able to run just about any ammo they come across in a survival situation.

 

Some want to run the weakest loads possible so they can get back on target quicker in practical shooting competitions.

 

Some are just looking for maximum versatility even though the gun will be a safe queen.

 

But the guns were still originally designed for more powerful ammo, so the original intent was to run less gas than the American guns generally run.

 

In response to the American guns generally needing more gas to run a wider range of ammos companies like Gunfixr developed the Gunfixr Gas Plug & later the MD-Arms the V-plug to be able to tune the guns down further than the factory 2 setting gas plug allowed for shooting the really hot rounds like the 3" magnum slugs.

 

To go in the opposite direction & add power to the system products such as the MD-Arms Booster Puc and CSS Performance Puc were developed.

 

To keep Power in the system without adding force to the cycle, modifications such as GlassBolt came about to reduce resistance & smoothen transition as the bolt rotates & extracts over the shells in the mag pressing against them (especially important with a drum's added spring pressure) & to match the pieces to the right specs so the gun doesn't have to work so hard to cycle. This can be done by one's self or professionally done. Also, to go even further for competition shooters who need to run the weakest possible loads so they can get back on target quicker, JT Engineering released their reduced power recoil spring.

 

So the object is to get the gun to run as wide a variety of ammo as possible using as little gas as possible so the gun doesn't beat it's self to death.

 

Now here's where it gets tricky... The guns are built to a design but there's a lack of consistency to say the least.

Many factors can cause a gun to under perform.

 

Izmash, as of late, has been releasing 19" guns with 3 ports in the mid to high .08"'s. However many guns are still in circulation with 3 ports as small as .065 & everything in between.

The warranty repair center's fix is 3 @ .093. Some master builders prefer 4 @ .074".

With these sized ports the guns, if built properly will shoot a wide range of ammo using the factory gas plug, but if you're shooting a bunch of 3" magnum slugs, that can be pretty hard on the gun.

You can try a heavy duty op-rod to reinforce that part, but the carriers also can have issues.

Some carriers have much deeper female ends where the op-rod screws in than others do & some are MUCH shallower & weaker, as well as at times there are gas pockets trapped in the steel causing weak spots or there could be improper heat treating.

That being said, the gas plugs with the ability to be more restrictive aren't a bad idea on guns that shoot low brass well on setting 2 & high brass well on setting 1 so they can dial down for slugs.

 

If a gun is UNDERgassed to the point that it'll only cycle high brass on setting 2, a person may want to look into getting it brought up to where it'll function correctly because they're really rolling the dice even if they have no intention of shooting low brass. You really do want to know where the gun stands.

 

Then...... There's random stuff like canted gas blocks that will misalign the carrier & add resistance, gas blocks or op rods mounted out of spec, friction around the chamber & barrel hood that will add resistance against the shells during the feeding &, more importantly the extraction cycle, timing issues which can add a great deal of resistance to the action, warped rails which will do the same & sofourth. Addressing all these issues will really help a gun run.

 

So in conclusion, if you can get it to run on setting 1, you should run it there.

If it should run on setting 1 but won't, one should tune the gun correctly so it will.

 

Welcome to the forum.

Edited September 21, 2011 by PauIy

[YOT 3,743]

Generally speaking, if the shell has a high brass base use setting 1, low brass setting 2.