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Kushnaup bullpup stock - MY PERSONAL REVIEW!


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This is the mount I used. http://www.leapers.com/prod_detail.php?mitem=mount&level1=Barrel_Mount&level2=&itemno=MNT-BR003XLS&status=&mtrack=11m

I used the un-railed half as a spacer by cutting off the flats with holes. When I tapped the stock, I held the railed piece against the rear of the gas tube. I drilled the tapping holes undersized to get as much thread contact as possible. The hex bolts included are 6-32 and I am engaging 6 threads where I drilled.

Is it Ideal. no. as I am mounted to the stock. I have to remove the rail to do a full cleaning. This is my HDG. I don't need 50yrd accuracy.

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i would stick some bushings internally between the ribs to add support... either nylon or aluminum... so when you tighten, the internal ribs wont flex, and possibly crack from the vertical stress... and if you have the room... perhaps epoxy some nuts in place under the last rib for one last point of support and tension... you cant be reefing on this like a mack truck lug nut... but it should help to beef it up some... 032.gif And I would think it would be MORE than rigid enough for a red dot type optic...

 

I gotta admit... its got ME thinking about more options a lot cheaper than a 100 dollar ultimak rail... 032.gif

 

 

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If someone were to apply this to a 16" rifle. That would be a short rifle. I wonder if someone would get grief for it.

 

ou CANT cut the tangs off a 16" rifle... you are then creating a TOO SHORT overall length firearm... a NO NO... nonono.gif

 

You would need to do a tang mod to the stock to increase the length to cover the tangs, like I and a few others have. 032.gif

 

 

000.gif

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Good luck. I had thought maybe you filed off enough of the clamp portion to fit between barrel and gas tube or maybe used some thin clamps. both of which works for sights but not so well for optics.

 

The verticle forces wont be much of a problem compared to the repetitive horizontal forces of recoil. Plastic is not a good anchor point. I ran into this with the KVar kit. Keep your optic as light as possible and it should last longer, but I predict eventual fail. I think there may well be a reason Bjorn recommends the Ultimak.

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i would stick some bushings internally between the ribs to add support... either nylon or aluminum... so when you tighten, the internal ribs wont flex, and possibly crack from the vertical stress... and if you have the room... perhaps epoxy some nuts in place under the last rib for one last point of support and tension... you cant be reefing on this like a mack truck lug nut... but it should help to beef it up some... 032.gif And I would think it would be MORE than rigid enough for a red dot type optic...

 

I gotta admit... its got ME thinking about more options a lot cheaper than a 100 dollar ultimak rail... 032.gif

 

 

000.gif

 

If someone were to apply this to a 16" rifle. That would be a short rifle. I wonder if someone would get grief for it.

 

ou CANT cut the tangs off a 16" rifle... you are then creating a TOO SHORT overall length firearm... a NO NO... nonono.gif

 

You would need to do a tang mod to the stock to increase the length to cover the tangs, like I and a few others have. 032.gif

 

 

000.gif

I assume one could install a permanent brake or hider to compensate for the removal of the tang. An extended one of course.

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