Camo Paint Job

[trailthrasher 0]

So,

I see an older discussion of a rattle-can camo paint job.

I have a couple cans of Krylon ultra-flat sitt'n there just waiting...

I got ambitious and camo'd a cheap scope a while back using a base color and then overspray

through a - wait for it - fly swatter to get a "digital" looking design. I really liked it, but can't say how it holds up because I never really used it.

How does it hold up to heat and wear?

Is it worth throwing on your gun?

Anybody know?

[kiddykane 28]

Stay away from krylon paint. It isn't intended for finishing a firearm. Try duracoat or cerakote instead. It'll be more expensive but the quality of the finished product will be far superior to the spray paint. Then again its your gun so do with it what you would like.

[DrThunder88 912]

I used that Krylon Fusion stuff on a few things. It worked really well on an MD Arms Molot grip, but it got a bit soft on the combs of the few stocks I tried it on. I imagine this is because--like most people--it can only handle so much exposure to my face.

[MT Predator 2,294]

Krylon works fine, Aervoe is a bit better. Duracoat/Cerakote can't be easily be removed like paint can to change the pattern if you need to. Those in the Military allowed to camouflage a weapon use paint.

Edited June 7, 2012 by MT Predator

[storm6490 2,768]

Krylon or any other quality enamel spray paint will work just fine on your rifle. Krylon works well to prevent metal parts from rusting. I had an original bulgarian that was constantly changing colors. The paint will wear off with hard scratches, heavy use and some solvents. You simply clean off the old paint and start over. It's not nearly as nice as duracoat or similar permanent coatings, but it gets the job done with the advantage of being flexible in conditions where every bit of concealment helps. A black rifle looks like hunter orange in the desert and in the snow. Tan and white rifles suck at night. Just remember to never carry a can of spray paint in your ruck sack! It's worse than polished brass on your helmet!

 

Spray paint is for working men who want to paint their rifle as often as they paint their face.

Edited June 7, 2012 by Stryker0946

[trailthrasher 0]

Does removing the Krylon remove the original black finish as well?

 

Never seen it "burn" up around the gas port where the temp gets up ?

 

If it won't smoke and burn on the hot parts, I think I'll go for it - why not.

 

Thanks

[Fallschirmjager667 729]

Does removing the Krylon remove the original black finish as well?

 

Never seen it "burn" up around the gas port where the temp gets up ?

 

If it won't smoke and burn on the hot parts, I think I'll go for it - why not.

 

Thanks

 

it depends on what the original finish is, and no it will not smoke and burn

[storm6490 2,768]

It becomes a little harder to strip off where it gets hot but wont burn. It will go down to the original parkerized finish with acetone. Apply paint and then lubricate and grease the internals. Even your finger grease will make the paint not stick as well.

[uzitiger 193]

I use Dupli Color's ceramic engine paint in tan and semi gloss black, It's more durable than Krylon and once baked on, it gets more chip resistant. I allow the paint to air dry then bake in the oven at 275 degrees. Don't bake plastic parts unless you want them distorted.

[storm6490 2,768]

you could use duplicover or otber paints to do a more permanent job, but the point of using krylon is to blend in to whatever terrain you get stuck in. Seasons and climates change. A good parkerized base with a duracoat or similar finish make it easy to switch things up. You should see how well uncle sams stuff cleans up with a little solvent. If you dont want to spend money on a good finish, the duplicover will do the best at protecting from corrosion. If you want to be a chameleon, use cheap rattle can paint that can be added to or stripped in minutes.

 

post some pics when youre done!