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Problem closing bolt


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Sometimes the bolt does not fully close. Sometimes it is easy to push it the last 1/2" or so, sometimes it needs a good whack! Doesn't matter if there is a shell in the chamber or not.

 

I am trying to determine what is wrong with it. I flipped it upside down and can use a small screwdriver to push down on part of the bolt locking mechanism (for lack of a better term). One side goes down, the other side goes up. When I push down on the tab it closes immediately and it is very easy to push down.

 

I have well over 1000 rounds through this gun so I would think it is well broken-in by now. I tried to lube it, did not matter. Something is hanging-up in there, just not sure what.

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Remember these are are "War" guns meant to function in Russia in the winter... Since you have run a bunch of ammo through it I doubt this is your problem. You should be able to see some rub marks in the the bolt carrier group (plenty of "tips" for relieving tight spots ( look at the "L" channel were the bolt and the carrier interact. THE ABOVE MENTIONED, PIN COULD BE THE CULPRIT.... something is rubbing, you have run plenty of ammo through it.... IF ALL ELSE FAILS?... GAS PORTS BLOCKED???. THESE GUNS COULD DRIVE US TO DRINK... (I THINK I'LL BUY ANOTHER ONE)....AHH,Wiskey....

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If you are "riding the bolt home," this is normal. The bolt should be pulled all the way back and released freely and quickly to allow as much force as the return springs can exert on the locking lugs of the bolt to return the action to battery.

 

If you are doing this and it still hangs up, you do indeed have a problem- only a minor one though.

After skimming through your other thread, it seems that you may either be riding the bolt or not putting enough ass behind the gun. These things get finicky if they don't have a solid mass firmly behind them. (Insert "your mom" joke here) Watch a slow-motion vid of an AK firing with the dust cover removed and you'll see why.

 

We might need more info though: What year was it made? Have you done any polishing? What lubrication are you running?

 

Sometimes the extractor spring needs to be tuned properly to allow it to tilt into place easily, but that should probably be your last step.

 

If it's internal, my guess would be that either the rotating faces of the bolt are a bit jagged (which shouldn't matter at a 1K round count) or the channel within the bolt carrier that one locking lug rotates in may be excessively rough. Lots of threads on polishing, but let's start small.

 

Oh, and welcome to the forum!

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+ 1 to post #4, also, I cannot help but wonder if both sides of the bolt carrier are on the rails properly. Remove the top cover, the spring, slide the bolt carrier to the rear and make sure it is in both sides straight..

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You are right about not letting the bolt slam home. If I pull it all the way back and let it rip, it is fine. It never, ever hangs when firing it either. It only happens on a reload but does not happen if I let go of the bolt handle when I have it all the way back.

 

No problems cycling at all. I can hold the gun in one hand and rip off all five shots. Yes, NJ, we are only allowed pussified five round mags. :(

 

I figured if I made the action a little bit smoother then I would never have any issues.

 

As a side-note, I was looking at the different magwell that Carolina Shooters Supply has for this gun. Anyone here use it? Trying to load a full mag on a closed bolt in competition is very hard. This is where I usually run into problems. I hold the bolt back with my right hand with the buttstock against my hip and rock the mag in with my left hand. This is when I usually don't let the bolt handle go from the full extreme rear position and that's when the bolt doesn't fully close. So, if I could load a mag straight-up on a closed bolt, I wouldn't have the initial problem!

 

Thanks guys!

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Glad it was that simple! Loading on a closed bolt is also pretty simple. Once you get the hang of it, you can rock 5 rounders in on a closed bolt in a second or so.

Insert loaded mag, tilted only about half as far as you would if the bolt were open. When the plastic hull comes in contact with the bolt, push hard to depress the shells and magazine follower. As you push in, tilt the mag to catch the lip inside the gun like normal, then rock it back into place.

Ok, that description was God-awful... Hopefully you got the idea though.

Or you can send your gun out to one of the site's vendors who can relieve the bolt enough to allow clearance for the shell while closed.

Or, for $50, you could try the "Rock-n-Lock" magazine guide- also available at CSS.

Or you could go the magwell route- just remember that you'll have to mod your mags. No magwell experience myself, but GunFun knows a lot about them. Hopefully he'll take it from here...

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I have the JTE magwell It is excellent. The top video link in my signature shows why. I also suggest you watch it for the Rock'n' lock technique in the video. If you break down your actions and become consistent, your problems will go away and you will be able to reliably and quickly load by feel without taking your gun or your eyes off target.

 

This is what Johnny DD was talking about. Click the "show more" under the video for a very detailed break down & diagnostic of each minute motion.

Edited by GunFun
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