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Tried everything. Still won't cycle low brass.


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Well, I don't do it for a living, so I do not consider myself a professional. I have never needed heat to remove a gas block. I just get in touch with my inner Thor and don't take "no" for an answer.

 

The gas block is likely fine as long as it wasn't allowed to get too hot. I think it would take something really extreme (stupid) to damage the gas block with heat. It doesn't sound like you went there.

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Lots of people have reported good results for stubborn gas blocks that didn't want to come off with a press, when they used a cheapo air chisel and a blunt chisel to push the block off.

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I know it's superficial, but I wonder how the Russian paint fared the 300 degree temp swing?

 

I opt to try cold (freezer) before going to heat. Sometimes, it makes just enough difference to man handle something. Sometimes, it makes things worse until parts warm back up. Depends on the shape and mass of the parts... Cold is very limited though. Worked great when I cinched down too tight the poly choke I bought from EVL.

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You guys are a step ahead of me here. I haven't even gotten the second pin out of the gas block yet.

I've had good luck getting heat to suck in penetrating oil (WD, or PB blaster). Since you don't want to dick up your finish, I guess a torch is out of the question. I'm wondering if you could put a soldering iron to the pin and get it good and hot, then hit it with some oil and let it sit till it cools. The as others have said, smack the block a couple of times as there very well could be rust in there that's causing this to start with. Then make sure the gun is well supported. I put a 2x4 under the side of the gun. Then give her hell. You WILL get it. It just may take a little time.

Do you have an air hammer and welder?

Once this is all said and done, I'd make damn sure to antiseize all of the offenders.

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