Joe**Dirt 21 Posted August 24, 2013 Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 (edited) I haven't shot it since I got it a couple of weeks ago. Unfortunately the closest out door range is 50 miles away so I will be going to the in door one that's only 12 miles away. I will be bringing the MKA, KSG, my competition Glock 35 and my 2 carry guns Glock 26 & Ruger LCP. I will report what happens later. Edited August 24, 2013 by Joe**Dirt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joe**Dirt 21 Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 I just got back. First round I had a stove pipe. After that it shot great until the 21st round. I got a failure to extract. The bolt is locked up tighter then a drum. I can't move it at all. I will be dissassembling the gun in a few minutes to see what happened. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anubis 38 Posted August 24, 2013 Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 It's not uncommon for the factory to poorly stake the extractor pin in place. It can work itself out during firing and bind up on top of the bolt. Not saying that's what's going on for certain but it's a possibility. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joe**Dirt 21 Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the tip! At the range I was pulling on it with all my might and it wouldn't budge. I started dissassemble and it moved about 1/2 way. After I removed the fore end it went all the way back and ejected the empty casing. Now the barrell won't come out. Any ideas? Edited August 24, 2013 by Joe**Dirt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anubis 38 Posted August 24, 2013 Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 You have a Tooth and Nail handguard, you have to remove the op rod and that little mounting plate before the barrel will come out. If your action is free now that you've removed the handguard, and the extractor pin isn't the problem, I would inspect the carrier and drive collar, perhaps there is some binding there on the inside of the handguard. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joe**Dirt 21 Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 Thank you. I will let you know what I find. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joe**Dirt 21 Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 (edited) I think I found the problem. I installed the lower rail after the fore end was installed. One screw was too long. It was binding the action. I have a question about that washer. Does it have to be over the lip of the barrel? Does it hold the barrel in place? Can I file it a little bit to clear the barrel so I can remove the barrel without removing the guide rod? Thanks again for your help. Edited August 24, 2013 by Joe**Dirt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anubis 38 Posted August 24, 2013 Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 Well it doesn't hold the barrel in place, the retention nut over the gas block ends up doing that. It just prevents you from removing the barrel when it's installed. But I can't really speak for T&N parts, ours are designed different. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joe**Dirt 21 Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 Well I tweaked it a little. Now I can remove the barrel when it's on. I have your receiver and it's a really nice stout piece. I bought the T&N fore end because it didn't look as bulky. I'm now second guessing my decision. I will see what happens next time out. Thanks agian for all you help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toothandnail 275 Posted August 24, 2013 Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 You DON'T need to remove the centering washer to remove the barrel, only when doing a TOTAL break down, which is hardly ever necessary , and only adds about 30 seconds to the process. You can remove the two "ears" on the washer which will allow the removal of the bolt and carrier, that will sacrifice a slight bit of stability of the forend, but still MUCH more solid than the factory. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waynefi 4 Posted August 24, 2013 Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 (edited) I think I found the problem. I installed the lower rail after the fore end was installed. One screw was too long. It was binding the action. I have a question about that washer. Does it have to be over the lip of the barrel? Does it hold the barrel in place? Can I file it a little bit to clear the barrel so I can remove the barrel without removing the guide rod? Thanks again for your help. If you are referring to the washer/spacer, that goes on the guide rod to lock the forend from moving. It rests on the shoulder of the barrel that protrudes a bit from the receiver. I have had my barrel out twice with that lower forend washer/spacer in place , with the ears still on it. The ears only stop the bolt assy from being removed. I liked the smooth look of that forend my self, I don't see where that could be causing any of the problems. Edited August 24, 2013 by Waynefi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joe**Dirt 21 Posted August 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 (edited) I guess my washer or my gun wasn't at the exact tolerance. It had to be put on the lip in order to fit the fore end over it. I fixed it with a little filing. The other thing is the drive block is rubbing on the insde of the fore end. If I don't have it just right it will stop the action from cycling. Edited August 24, 2013 by Joe**Dirt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toothandnail 275 Posted August 25, 2013 Report Share Posted August 25, 2013 Make sure the bolts on the rail you installed are flush with the inside of the forend. If you filed the washer, that allows the forend to move upand can cause the drive block to rub. The tolerances are tight for good reason. While it's possible yours has more space between the barrel and guide rod in the receiver, we have not seen that up to this point, most forends and recievers fit square,some will have a slight gap at the top,no way around that without fitting those one by one by hand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joe**Dirt 21 Posted August 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2013 (edited) It's rubbing on the side of the fore end. Edited August 25, 2013 by Joe**Dirt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joe**Dirt 21 Posted September 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 Went to the range today. I put 50 rounds through the gun. I would have shot more but my shoulder couldn't take it. The only problem I had was the Fiocchi low recoil slugs would eject but not cylce the bolt far enough to pick up the next round. I would imagine in time that will change. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KIRCH76 12 Posted September 27, 2013 Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 I have had 100% success with winchester AA. It's not much more the Walmart bulk but the success rate it well worth the extra money Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toothandnail 275 Posted September 27, 2013 Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 I have had 100% success with winchester AA. It's not much more the Walmart bulk but the success rate it well worth the extra money Same here, Joshua did get a bad primer on one this week during practice(on the video) other than that ONE , they have been excellent. The WM bulk pack aren't bad for everyday stuff, not good enough for a match, IMO Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joe**Dirt 21 Posted September 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 I'm sure after I get enough rounds though mine it will loosen up to the point where I can shoot the cheap stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.