Skitterfish 10 Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 I'm just curious if the design of Krebs lever will stop the lever from riding up and off the receiver when on safe like my factory lever does. If not is their a mod that I missed to keep the factory lever from doing this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jdtravers 637 Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 No, it won't. Two ways (I use), either weld a post (stop) into the receiver that will stop the lever where you want it, or weld one of the trigger legs to stop the safety where you want it and I would also drill a lite detent into the receiver for a positive stop/engagement for the safety/selector lever so it won't get bumped back into the fire position. Jack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gunman1 1,753 Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 (edited) If I'm understanding this correctly........it sounds to me like you don't have enough pressure/tension between the lever and the side of the receiver. Maybe take the safety out of the gun and form/bend the lever inward slightly, as to cause more tension between the two surfaces. Edited September 13, 2013 by AA re-cvrd Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jdtravers 637 Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 No, he is saying UP and off the receiver, which would be into the position which covers the carrier from getting debris, dirt, mud into etc (dust cover). Jack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Skitterfish 10 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Jack, thanks for the ideas. I have a small dimple already drilled in the safe position that could be used in conjunction with your idea of a small stud for a dead stop. In the fire position I got lucky in that my safety stop just barely lets the bump on the lever slip off the bottom of the receiver. Not so far that its difficult to slide back up but enough to hold it securely. Jack, would you be able to post a picture of how you do your stud just to make sure we are on the same page and I think we are. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jdtravers 637 Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Yes, but if you have the ability to TIG weld, it is easier to weld up the trigger leg to stop the safety from going up too high. I wish I still had my 3D CAD Programs to easily show these things, but I don't, so what you are doing is welding a vertical post on the right trigger leg that will stop the lever exactly where you want it in the safe position and then touch off the dimple with a 1/8 (.125) ball nose cutter for your indentation on the receiver. Pull the dust cover, recoil assembly, carrier assembly, and move the safety/selector lever where you would want it to stop. Now look at the right side trigger leg and the position of the safety stop. That is where the vertical weld would be to stop the lever from going any further up into the dust cover. Forward of the safety engagement and welded to the bar. Jack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Skitterfish 10 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Ok I see exactly what you are saying. Unfortunately I can't TIG so I was thinking of drilling and tapping the side of the receiver to except a small set screw as a dead stop so I could remove it to remove the safety should I ever have to. Is that a serviceable fix or a bad idea? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jdtravers 637 Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 That will work! Like a 5-40 Cap Screw. The head is plenty big enough to stop the lever. Jack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Skitterfish 10 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Thanks Jack, I really appreciate the advice! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jdtravers 637 Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Last thing; The cap screw doesn't have to be very high to stop the lever, this way you can just slightly lift the lever over the cap screw instead of taking it in and out. I would want to lock that screw in with Red Loctite to keep it there. You won't over stress the lever if you don't lift it excessively high. Jack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Skitterfish 10 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Perfect. I'm at work so I can go poke around the tool crib later on to see what I can find. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nephilim7 107 Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Thanks, Jack! You made it very clear what is needed. I've considered doing the cap screw idea, but I think I'll just find someone to TIG a few things at once for me. Not to hijack the thread, but is there an elegant solution for the downward "fire" position stop? Preferably internal as with the TIGed trigger leg stop? I keep gradually bending my traditional stop away from the bottom of the reciever with safety lever strikes. Thanks again! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Skitterfish 10 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 I'd suggest drilling a dimple in the receiver so that the bump on the safety lever clicks into the dimple at the same time the lever hits the stop. Pretty much what I'm doing in the SAFE position. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jdtravers 637 Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 The dimple in the receiver is actually more important in the fire position because during sustained fire, the firing hand can bump the selector/safety lever into the safe position if it is not retained by the female dimple in the receiver. Jack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deadclown 0 Posted September 14, 2013 Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 I thought it was just me that noticed that the lever goes over the receiver and is a PITA to disengage Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted September 14, 2013 Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 I thought it was just me that noticed that the lever goes over the receiver and is a PITA to disengage With the Krebs lever bent to the right tension, it is a non issue. With the flick of you trigger finger, it will even strip and load the top round with a minor bit if filing. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nephilim7 107 Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 (edited) I agree with Mullet Man. My modded OEM safety works beutifully as a BHO. I did have to adjust the lever tension and use a file to bevel the contact area of the top of the reciever edge where the end of the lever would slide off. I put my BHO notch much further back than the Krebs. That way, the bolt slams shut more violently (as all semi-auto's should) and it is more reliable for stripping the top round out of the mag and locking the breech with a single finger sweep. I will add small dimples to the receiver scratch and an internal TIGed trigger leg "Safe" safety stop eventually. I will also rivet an external "Fire" safety stop in place, as I keep bending the traditional-style stop thru hard use. Edited September 16, 2013 by Nephilim7 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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