Saiga Conversion newbie questions

[Rustie 0]

Hey guys, I’m new to the forums and new to the weapon modification scene. I’ve done my fair share of research; however I still have a few questions about my build that I’m having trouble getting answered.

 

I’m starting off my build with a Saiga 7.62x39 16” BBL. I want to put a Bulgarian Wooden Stock Set on it. From my research I have read that the Bulgarian AK-74 Gas Tube fits the Saiga 7.62x39 very well; however I was unable to find one of these. I did find an AK-47 Polish gas tube and from what I have read online, these fit with minor adjustments, i.e. a small amount of filing. Does the original Saiga 7.62 gas tube have to be changed to fit the Bulgarian upper hand guard, if so will the Bulgarian upper hand guard be compatible with the Polish gas tube? Also does the Upper hand guard need extra hardware to be fastened on (like the lower hand guard needs a retainer)

 

I am looking at a Vulcan Arms Saiga Lower Hand guard Retainer for 32.99 but it does not have a Sling Swivel on it like Saiga-ak.com has. So I am thinking about waiting for Saiga-ak.com to get there next batch in. I do know that the Retainer I want is one that doesn’t require taking off the Front Site Post and Gas Block, and I would prefer to have one that requires the barrel to be filed down to create a groove to keep the Retainer from moving forward. Is there anywhere else that offers one similar to the Vulcan Arms with a sling swivel besides the Saiga-ak one, or should I just wait until Saiga-ak gets some in stock?

 

I have read a lot about the tapco G2 triggers having problems with double firing. So I was contemplating putting a Red Star 7.62 Adjustable Trigger on in place of the G2. Is the flaw in the G2 trigger worth spending an extra $40 dollars?

 

I am looking at a Tapco Intrafuse Slot Muzzle Brake on Amazon for $14.49. At such a low price I am wondering if this piece will make a noticeable difference, or perhaps should I look for something higher end?

 

Here is a list of all the pieces I am ordering, please let me know if you see anything I may be missing:

Bulgarian buttstock (W/buttplate), Butt Stock Screws, Bulgarian Pistol Grip, Bulgarian Lower Handguard, Lower Handguard retainer, Bulgarian Upper handguard, Polish Gas Tube, Trigger Guard, Trigger Guard Mounting hardware, Trunnion Bullet guide, Red Star 7.62 trigger, Tapco intrafuse saiga grip screw and t-nut, tapco intrafuse slot muzzle brake, Sling swivel for Bulgarian buttstock.

 

Thanks alot in advance for any responses.

[semper299 284]

I have the G2 and never had a problem. YMMV.

 

Personally, I would get a bulgy 74 muzzle brake, then have it reamed out for the 7.62 bullet. I think the size needs to be something around .400, but someone can correct me on that. The real 74 muzzle brake is simply better than a 74 style muzzle brake. A decent smith can drill it out for you for about 20 bucks, or you may be able to do it yourself.

[bert7.62x39 10]

I'm pretty new here too, definitely not as knowledgeable as others here, but I have a Saiga 7.62x39 16" too and can answer some of your front end questions with confidence since I just did mine earlier this week... 

 

http://www.carolinashooterssupply.com/product_p/css-bracket-ak.htm

 

The link above is a lower handguard retaining bracket that doesn't require you to remove the front sight block or gas block. It isn't exactly the style that requires you to notch the barrel but it does have a set screw to keep it from moving... and a sling attachment. I think Dinzag arms has a bracket too that doesn't require removing the front sight block and gas block. I personally bought the one from Carolina and it seems solid.

 

You won't be able to use the standard Saiga gas tube with the Bulgarian upper handguard (or any other traditional AK upper handguards) because the Saiga gas tube doesn't have the upper handguard retaining brackets (in addition to being different in other ways). If you're looking to convert the front end to a traditional AK style, your stock Saiga gas tube and stock Saiga handguard won't be used anymore.

 

You won't need any extra upper handguard retaining brackets as they will simply be included with your Polish AK gas tube (or any other standard AK gas tube you find). The Bulgarian upper handguard will twist into a standard AK gas tube.

 

You should be fine with using a Polish gas tube on the Saiga and you should also be fine using the Bulgarian upper handguard on the Polish tube. You will probably need to file the Polish tube to fit the Saiga some. I bought an East German gas tube for my Saiga and I had to file a tiny bit off of the front of the tube and I had to file the upper back angle to get the lever to lock in to place. Just compare it to the stock Saiga tube and file where needed.

 

By the way, http://www.k-var.com/shop/AK-030EG.html still has those East German AK gas tubes for sale if for some reason you don't get the Polish tube. It comes with an upper handguard but you can switch it out. The finish was a little flat compared to the Saiga finish but some high temp spray paint fixed that easiy.  

 

I threaded my barrel and put a slant brake on it (the slant brake was $10.00). It doesn't reduce recoil much but it does stop the muzzle climb almost completely. There's almost no recoil anyway. I don't know much about the Tapco brake you mentioned... and I don't know enough about the G2 trigger to comment. Hopefully some of that helps.

[Rustie 0]

I have the G2 and never had a problem. YMMV.

 

I think I may end up going with the cheaper G2, the problem does seem few and far between and that is a hefty price difference for a problem that I may never even experience.

 

I don't really want extra work to do on the muzzle break right now, so I don't believe I will be going with one that needs drilling out. However I hear alot of people talking about the Slant Muzzle Brakes. Would a slant muzzle brake be better than the 74 style muzzle brake. Or is it really just coming down to personal preference at this level? Later on I may go more in depth with it and try some other things, but right now I'm wanting to keep it as simple as possible for my first build.

 

I've heard problems with that bolt on handguard retainer not staying in place. I think I will definitly prefer one that I know for sure will stay in place. I'm pretty sure I'm just going to wait on the Saiga-ak.com one to get back in stock if their is not an alternative that has a sling swivel.

 

Thank you for the East German AK gas tube suggestion, I am definitly going to go with it instead. It cost $7 extra but I will save that in shipping since that was the only item I was getting from Ak-builder.com and I already have other items coming from K-Var.

 

Thanks guys. I wont be ordering all the parts for atleast another week or two until I finish up all my research so I would love to hear any and all suggestions from other users as well.

[Rustie 0]

I'm looking at the G2 trigger and it says Axis Pin Retaining Plate or Spring needed and disconnect spring not included. I guess (Plate) or (Spring) is what i need. The spring is only $2 where as the plate is $8, is there an advantage to the plate over the spring? Is the disconnect spring the spring that is already on the trigger assembly that the rifle comes with or do I have to buy it separate also?

 

Are there any other pieces like this that I may be missing?

Edited October 5, 2013 by Rustie

[LuPiN8oR 333]

Just a note: in that configuration you will only be able to use us made mags per 922r.

[Rustie 0]

Yes I already know, thank you tho.

[bert7.62x39 10]

The slant brake doesn't really reduce recoil or flash... it just prevents almost all of the muzzle climb whereas the 74 brake will reduce muzzle climb AND recoil. Some say slant brakes even increase recoil slightly by pushing the rifle back into your shoulder vs up and to the right... I guess it's as you said, personal preference.

 

The 7.62x39 Saiga, to me, barely has any recoil anyway and I'm not so concerned with muzzle flash at the moment so the slant brake is good for me because it only adds a slight bit of weight and length to the muzzle... and with the reduced muzzle climb, it makes controlling followup shots easier. The 74 brake is longer and heavier but better at reducing recoil.

 

The East German gas tube does have a brown plastic hand guard attached to it that you'd need to remove if you want to use the Bulgarian wood one. That's the only catch, you remove it like any other ak handguard, not a big deal... and the finish will be slightly more dull than your factory finish.

[Rustie 0]

Thank you for the explanation. If slant brake "prevents almost all of the muzzle climb" 74 "reduces" muzzle climb, I'm thinking I will be more interested in a slant brake. I am truly not to concerned with muzzle flash or a little more recoil ither.

[Jaba1017 71]

Not many 922r parts in your build.

never heard of anything wrong with the G2.

yes polish tube can be made to fit with some work.

axis pin retaining plate is easy to install. The spring is tricky. Stock rifle uses a spring to hold the axis pins.

yes you need the little spring from the stock trigger to use it in the g2.