exred 0 Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Hey guy's need some help, I was cleaning my saiga ak47 and got stock on removing pins on the bolt, there are two pins one for the firing pin and the other for extractor, I've checked video on youtube on how to do it and I can't get those 2 pins to move at all, also found spring under extractor is very hard to compress almost no movement, the rifle shoots and extracts fine just wanted to do some cleaning I did go thru over 2k rounds and never cleaned the bolt. In the video the guy shakes the bolt and firing pin is loose which is a good sign, mine also makes loose sound but a little sticky. Any advise on how to remove those two pins? Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mullet Man 2,114 Posted May 26, 2014 Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Don't obsess over it. If you're dead set on cleaning it, hose it with brake clean, assembled. It takes a whole lot of shooting to foul an AK bolt. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matthew Hopkins 1,065 Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 (edited) you don't ever need to take apart the bolt for cleaning, like mullet man said, just take a can of brake cleaner and blast it Edited May 27, 2014 by Matthew Hopkins Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spacehog 2,218 Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 ^^^^ What they said. The extractor spring should feel stiff. It should require some pressure and screwdriver or punch to manipulate the extractor back from the bolt face, and it should spring back to starting position smoothly. With that said, the only time you should have to disassemble the bolt, would be if the extractor was malfunctioning or the firing pin is not moving freely even after cleaning with brake cleaner or other solvent. The pins vary in tightness by AK. If they are being stubborn, soak the bolt in some break free. Also, if you have an AK cleaning kit, it should come with a punch for those pins. That is what I have used on stubborn pins and it works well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
exred 0 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Eagle 839 Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Remember the firing pin channel is to be clean and dry. DO NOT oil the FP. Ask me how I learned the hard way. If the carbon build-up is really bad(Tula loves to leave presents), use carb cleaner instead of brake cleaner. I use it on my piston head, and it literally melts the carbon away. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rhodes1968 1,638 Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Remember the firing pin channel is to be clean and dry. DO NOT oil the FP. Ask me how I learned the hard way. If the carbon build-up is really bad(Tula loves to leave presents), use carb cleaner instead of brake cleaner. I use it on my piston head, and it literally melts the carbon away. So how did you learn the hard way? Yeah carb cleaner works well and doesnt leave any residue in the bolt. Just wear glasses the splashback will hurt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone Eagle 839 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Remember the firing pin channel is to be clean and dry. DO NOT oil the FP. Ask me how I learned the hard way. If the carbon build-up is really bad(Tula loves to leave presents), use carb cleaner instead of brake cleaner. I use it on my piston head, and it literally melts the carbon away. So how did you learn the hard way? Yeah carb cleaner works well and doesnt leave any residue in the bolt. Just wear glasses the splashback will hurt. Let's just say the rangemaster wasn't happy when I ripped through a 30 rounder with my finger off the trigger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.