Adjusted/Heat Treated my Tapco G2 Trigger

[toshbar 36]

Well I think today I made history by adjusting my 'non-adjustable' Tapco G2 single hook trigger.

 

I successfully eliminated all excessive pre-travel and overtravel. I say excessive because some pre-travel is needed for the gun to function safely.

 

I got out my welder, a few files, and went at it. I simply welded a nub on the trigger where it contacts the receiver at full rest, behind the axis pin. I then filed it down until pre-travel was what I'll call 'safe'. If pre-travel is set too little, when the hammer is caught by the disconnector and the trigger is released slowly, the hammer will slip through and around the front hook and strike the firing pin. I then did the same for overtravel. This is managed by welding on a small bead under the front hook of the trigger where it hits the receiver when the trigger is pulled all the way back. I filed that bead down until the hammer could pass around the front hook without touching it. I extensively tested and made sure that in no circumstances would the hammer fall when the trigger is released.

 

I used my MIG welder to do the material addition. I set it on half the voltage needed to weld the thickness of the surrounding metal I was adding to. I did not want to melt the [sOFT] tapco metal. All the added material needs to do is stop the trigger from traveling too far in either direction. It does not get tensioned or twisted. If the new material falls off, the rifle will remain safe to fire and the only thing noticed will be either the factory pre-travel or overtravel returning.

 

While doing all this work to the tapco fire control group, I learned that the Tapco metal is extremely soft and not hardened in any way. It is very easy to file and polish(which I did a while back to the contact surfaces). I heat treated it with a small propane torch and some cold water. I'm not sure how well it worked, but it has to be better than it was. I concentrated heat on the front hook of the trigger, the axis holes in the trigger, the hook part of the disconnect, and the shelf and impact area of the hammer. Time will tell how this will hold up.

 

If anyone absolutely NEEDS photographs, I can provide although I already put everything back together....that BHO spring is a pain.

 

I'm going to test fire tomorrow.

 

Let me know what you think. Yes, I know I could have bought an adjustable, but why spend twice the money when I can adjust it myself and have fun doing it? It only needs to be adjusted once anyway.

 

-toshbar

Edited December 3, 2010 by toshbar

[essohbe 47]

Good job! Yea, I don't know, why do people put adjustable triggers in their AKs? It doesn't need that, and you probably aren't going to be shooting matches with them. To each their own I guess...

 

Just how soft IS the Crapco triggers? Maybe I'll anneal mine when I get it. I have one in my 7.62x39 Romanian and it has been fine so far.

[Dudethebagman 222]

Nice work. That's one thing I appreciate about AK's and AK people - we're willing to experiment and innovate a little. Most people wouldn't try that on an expensive AR, they'd just pay someone an inflated price for some part made of unobtainium or take it to a gunsmith.

 

Not that I'm knocking AR's. It's just a different animal. An AR's like a shiny Posche, an AK's like the old Camaro you are restoring in your garage.

 

Cheapness is the mother of invention. Plus it helps you learn stuff.

Edited December 4, 2010 by Dudethebagman

[toshbar 36]

Good job! Yea, I don't know, why do people put adjustable triggers in their AKs? It doesn't need that, and you probably aren't going to be shooting matches with them. To each their own I guess...

 

Just how soft IS the Crapco triggers? Maybe I'll anneal mine when I get it. I have one in my 7.62x39 Romanian and it has been fine so far.

 

I don't shoot matches, but this 5 shot group was done at 500 yards. You probably saw the other thread about it.

 

 

It was pretty soft. Just a few strokes with a non-aggressive mill file with little pressure yielded quite a few metal flakes on my workbench. I was worried about the close clearances of it wearing the metal down enough to make 'something interesting' happen in public, and I do NOT want that to happen.

[toshbar 36]

Nice work. That's one thing I appreciate about AK's and AK people - we're willing to experiment and innovate a little. Most people wouldn't try that on an expensive AR, they'd just pay someone an inflated price for some part made of unobtainium or take it to a gunsmith.

 

Not that I'm knocking AR's. It's just a different animal. An AR's like a shiny Posche, an AK's like the old Camaro you are restoring in your garage.

 

Cheapness is the mother of invention. Plus it helps you learn stuff.

 

Whenever I need stuff for any of my guns, I head to the hardware store. So far I've gathered some small cotter keys [hitch pins] for retaining my axis pins, hole plugs for the old trigger holes, and a ball bearing for the safety on my mossberg 500. Numerous springs too. He looked at me kinda funny when I asked for a 14mmx1 pitch left handed die though.

 

I'd never do any of this to my AR because if I royally screw it up, I CAN'T WELD IT BACK TOGETHER. I guess I need a spool gun so I can weld aluminum.

[WildmamWilliams 51]

some part made of unobtainium

 

I want a trigger made of that!!!

[toshbar 36]

Well I fired it yesterday and it was a dream. Did some slow fire to see how awesome the pull and reset is and then did 4 mag dumps at 99% the speed of light. I know bump firing is looked down upon, but it is SO much fun when it looks, sounds, and feels like the real deal. A little bit of effort to get it started and then it just continued.

[TYBOY 33]

Well I think today I made history by adjusting my 'non-adjustable' Tapco G2 single hook trigger.

 

I successfully eliminated all excessive pre-travel and overtravel. I say excessive because some pre-travel is needed for the gun to function safely.

 

I got out my welder, a few files, and went at it. I simply welded a nub on the trigger where it contacts the receiver at full rest, behind the axis pin. I then filed it down until pre-travel was what I'll call 'safe'. If pre-travel is set too little, when the hammer is caught by the disconnector and the trigger is released slowly, the hammer will slip through and around the front hook and strike the firing pin. I then did the same for overtravel. This is managed by welding on a small bead under the front hook of the trigger where it hits the receiver when the trigger is pulled all the way back. I filed that bead down until the hammer could pass around the front hook without touching it. I extensively tested and made sure that in no circumstances would the hammer fall when the trigger is released.

 

I used my MIG welder to do the material addition. I set it on half the voltage needed to weld the thickness of the surrounding metal I was adding to. I did not want to melt the [sOFT] tapco metal. All the added material needs to do is stop the trigger from traveling too far in either direction. It does not get tensioned or twisted. If the new material falls off, the rifle will remain safe to fire and the only thing noticed will be either the factory pre-travel or overtravel returning.

 

While doing all this work to the tapco fire control group, I learned that the Tapco metal is extremely soft and not hardened in any way. It is very easy to file and polish(which I did a while back to the contact surfaces). I heat treated it with a small propane torch and some cold water. I'm not sure how well it worked, but it has to be better than it was. I concentrated heat on the front hook of the trigger, the axis holes in the trigger, the hook part of the disconnect, and the shelf and impact area of the hammer. Time will tell how this will hold up.

 

If anyone absolutely NEEDS photographs, I can provide although I already put everything back together....that BHO spring is a pain.

 

I'm going to test fire tomorrow.

 

Let me know what you think. Yes, I know I could have bought an adjustable, but why spend twice the money when I can adjust it myself and have fun doing it? It only needs to be adjusted once anyway.

 

-toshbar

 

In my experience, a propane torch does not heat it up enough to properly heat treat.

 

Dry fire a couple of times and look at the results

 

TYBOY

Edited December 5, 2010 by TYBOY

[Dudethebagman 222]

 

 

Whenever I need stuff for any of my guns, I head to the hardware store. So far I've gathered some small cotter keys [hitch pins] for retaining my axis pins, hole plugs for the old trigger holes, and a ball bearing for the safety on my mossberg 500. Numerous springs too. He looked at me kinda funny when I asked for a 14mmx1 pitch left handed die though.

 

 

Same here. I have a hardware/sporting goods/gun store about 5 blocks from my house, and I spend more time and money there then I probably should. Sometimes I spend so much time in the aisle with all of individual bolts, washers, gaskets and doodads that I wonder if they think I'm stealing stuff or insane. Plus I always end up walking up to the register with a handful of random small parts, then pay for all that crap with 73 cents worth of change.

[Azrial 1,091]

... Just how soft IS the Crapco triggers? Maybe I'll anneal mine when I get it. I have one in my 7.62x39 Romanian and it has been fine so far.

These are great a FCG for the money and Tapco is one of our vendors. If you have never seen or used one, why in the hell are you trashing them? I would easily put the hardness on a par with my factory Polish and Romy FCG.

[essohbe 47]

If you have never seen or used one, why in the hell are you trashing them?

 

Lol! It's a long-running joke for some people to call it "Crapco." If you actually read what I posted, I said I have used it and do have one in another rifle.

 

 

I don't like their other stuff. The SAW pistol grip I had on another gun was a joke. The folding stock is better suited for an airsoft toy also.

 

Just say'n...

[toshbar 36]

If you have never seen or used one, why in the hell are you trashing them?

 

Lol! It's a long-running joke for some people to call it "Crapco." If you actually read what I posted, I said I have used it and do have one in another rifle.

 

 

I don't like their other stuff. The SAW pistol grip I had on another gun was a joke. The folding stock is better suited for an airsoft toy also.

 

Just say'n...

 

I have the SAW grip on my 5.45 and like it fine. The side folding stocks are flimsy.

[essohbe 47]

Hey Toshbar,

 

You said you have the entire Tapco FCG, have you had any problems with the hammer dragging against the bolt? There's another thread about this, yet another exquisite tapco product that isn't made right... wondered how your's fit. Mine drags. I'm fuck'n taking mine out. POS.

[toshbar 36]

dragging? It contacts the bolt, but doesn't hang it up or anything. I did smooth some burrs on my bolt and polish the bottom of it.

[toshbar 36]

Hey Toshbar,

 

You said you have the entire Tapco FCG, have you had any problems with the hammer dragging against the bolt? There's another thread about this, yet another exquisite tapco product that isn't made right... wondered how your's fit. Mine drags. I'm fuck'n taking mine out. POS.

 

just remembered you asked about this.

 

About a month ago I felt that it was dragging quite a bit, so I changed the angle of the hammer. If the hammer is cocked back, I changed the angle of the ramp towards the rear of the gun so the bolt carrier will have a less steep slope to come up and push the hammer down. It took 3 minutes with a hand file and all is well now. Be careful not to change the striking surface of the hammer where it hits the firing pin.

[jimdigriz 580]

Hey Toshbar,

 

You said you have the entire Tapco FCG, have you had any problems with the hammer dragging against the bolt? There's another thread about this, yet another exquisite tapco product that isn't made right... wondered how your's fit. Mine drags. I'm fuck'n taking mine out. POS.

 

What will you be replacing with? Just curious, as I'm considering alternatives myself at the moment (though not on account of this issue). Also, what caliber did you experience this problem with? My SGL31 has about 2000 rounds through, and there is actually minimal wear on the G2 hammer, surprisingly.