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Tyrvidar

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About Tyrvidar

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  1. Played around with the saiga recently. Drilled out a 5.45 bulgarian comp to work with 7.62, tested, and it works perfect. Threw a bakelite on it... enjoy.
  2. Looking for a good used Saiga .223 to play around with. If you're DFW local that is a big plus. Let me know whatcha got.
  3. You would be better off using a .223 Saiga for the conversion.
  4. I think you are right about a vendor buy. I bought one about a month ago. Cost $339. I have arthritis in my right arm/hand and found the length/angle of the pistol grip was tough on my trigger finger and made for a hard pull. I also scoped it and wanted a higher comb, bought a skeletonized stock from Gilberts and it has worked out perfect for me. It gives you the feel of a true pistol grip, and has a flip up/down type pad which (for me) is perfect for scope or iron sights. I really like it. Took it and my Valmet M76 .223 for a comparison shoot. Shot both with their iron sights, the Valmet
  5. I'd take a small drill bit to the shroud on the front sight block, drill a small indent where the screws leave their grip mark. This will give them something to bite into and probably provide a better fit... and file down what ever else.
  6. My PK-AV mounted on my yugo... It's designed for use with a 5.45 round but can be adjusted properly for use with a 7.62 once you learn your hits points at certain ranges. If you dial it in at 25 yards, I'm sure it's fine out to 300, as you'll have a similar battle zero with your iron sights. Just aim a little higher . The dot is small enough and vivid enough for use at targets out to 200+ yards. I got mine from Tantal earlier this year for about $190. I don't think he has anymore though.
  7. I want to see this, throw up some pics! As for the over heating, if it was automatic and I had plans to blow through 5 100 round drums within a few minutes... I bet I could get something to catch on fire on the gun. Then I might have some problems with the finish on the barrel haha.
  8. Appliance Epoxy I left the original russian finish in place, I scrubbed the gun with paint thinner, scrubbed it in the sink, and then let dry... After drying I applied a few coats over an hour, then let cure for 24 hours. The next night I put the gun in the oven and baked at 200 degrees for an hour, then cranked it up to 375 for 30 mins, then back down to 200 for another hour. Prior to taking it out I cranked it back up to 375 for 30 more mins... then killed the oven. Let it sit for a couple of hours while it cools... and presto Came out tough as nails. Worse case scenario... if you f
  9. 24x1.5mm Combloc flash hider K-var has them here... http://www.k-var.com/shop/product.php?prod...=289&page=1 I saved money and bought the same exact thing from here... http://www.blackjackbuffers.com/index.php?...products_id=475
  10. Thought I'd share mine. Few things left I need to do. Plug the holes from the conversion. I have some nylon plugs in the mail... I don't feel like pissing around with the welding the holes closed... Had enough fun doing the trigger guard. This is just a beater rifle. Looking for a military sight leaf to replace the original... and I'll wrap the folding stock with paracord when I get my hands on some... other than that... this thing shoots like a champ. Dead on. Total investment- $325 gun + $250 in parts. I put 2 weeks of on and off work into it. The 2nd week consisted mainly of working on
  11. 7.62x39 Saiga... Full conversion. I wanted to build a modern AK at a good price as my personal beater rifle. Some PK-A action 2 days before I finished the gun in the above pictures... Shoots damn good... got a few more touch ups to do but my full conversion is more or less completed. I'll probably wrap some paracord around the romy folder... for some cheek support. $300 rifle + $250 in parts + a week of on and off labor... = a gun I would of paid $750+ for.
  12. The factory Saiga rifle has a longer magazine release lever. It is designed to work with Saiga magazines, and is too long to work with miltary magazines. The Saiga magazine has a thinner locking tab at the rear, and is about 3 or 4mm higher in the front, which acts as a feed ramp. Thanks for this info, I was curious as to what exactly that difference was between the 2. Once I get my Saiga in, your information will help make my military magazine conversion alot easier.
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