wispa78

It's fine for 5.56 cartridges. Just to make things more official here's a screen shot of an email conversation between the US importer of Saiga rifles (Clyde Woods of RAAC) and myself. I've used 2009 IMI 5.56 in my rifle with no problems at all. I hope this puts your mind at ease.

Well, here's my '06 vintage Saiga. Nothing out of the ordinary as far as reverting it close to the way it was intended. I'm going to get a Hogue pistol grip soon and I'm thinking of trying the Krebs aperture sight too. There's a Russian military sling on its way to me now and I think that will be a nice addition. I wanted to keep mine very basic right from the start and so far that's what I've done. It has a Tapco G2 FCG, retaining plate, SAW grip, K-Var warsaw length buttstock and an angled trigger guard all bought from Dinzag. The SGM 30rd magazine is from Carolina Shooters Supply.

There's nothing wrong with the longer barrel versions. If I were you I'd convert it then put a nice Russian scope and a skeleton stock on that bad boy. Saiganov Light

Sounds great, but how did the rifle turn out?

You've already got some good answers but I'll list what I bought... All from Dinzag Modded Tapco G2 FCG - FCGPGC1 AK retaining plate - AKRETP1 Saiga Conversion Kit - CONVKITSAW K-var black WARSAW buttstock Tapco SAW grip - TAPSAWBK At the time I ordered this stuff I didn't realize Hogue or Ergo had grips to fit this rifle. They've been out for a while but I just didn't hear about them until after I converted my Saiga. I'm not sure if I'd like the pronounced finger grooves on the Hogue grip so I might lean towards getting the Ergo grip. That's just personal preference though. J

I've read that the k-var stock has a better (more secure) mount for a sling and is more accurate to the look of an AK stock. It also has the trap door for the cleaning kit and a metal butt plate (not sure if Tapco has that). I went with the k-var for mine and have no regrets. I can't speak for the Tapco stock since I've never tried one. People tend to say they aren't built as well. I do have the Tapco SAW pistol grip and probably will be swapping that out for the Hogue version. There's nothing wrong with the Tapco PG but I would have originally went with the Hogue if I knew they made one

Well, it's not always the best source but Wikipedia has this: Difference between 5.56 and commercial .223 "The 5.56 mm NATO and .223 Remington cartridges and chamberings are similar but not identical. Military cases are generally made from thicker brass than commercial cases; this reduces the powder capacity (an important consideration for handloaders[12]), and the NATO specification allows a higher chamber pressure. NATO EPVAT test barrels made for 5.56 mm NATO measure chamber pressure at the case mouth, as opposed to the location used by the United States civil standards organization

That's reassuring, thanks! I just got a few boxes of 5.56 and it's nice to have a definitive answer. Many people here use it with no issues but it's nice to hear it from the source.

Thanks! That's what I was thinking, but just wanted to stop by here to get someone's opinion.

I recently converted my rifle. Originally I had the intention of installing the BHO lever but changed my mind during the conversion. Since there's a space between the wall of the receiver and the hammer I'm thinking I should use something (a washer maybe?) to fill in the gap. I've already taken it out to the range once and it works great. I'm concerned about the hammer spring though. The right side looks to be sitting a little more slanted than the left side. This is due to where the hammer was cut to allow for the BHO lever be installed. Am I probably going to run into trouble if I leave

My .223 version doesn't have the vents. It might help to have them but I guess they're not needed. I'm interested to learn more about the differences though.

Your right they're for 1/2-28 threaded barrels only. The barrel on mine is still as it was from the factory so I was thinking I could get it threaded to that spec and use the AAC flash hider. Mississippi Auto Arms sells a Saiga 223 kit for 1/2-28 threads. One thing I'm going to have to consider if going the 1/2-28 route is the difference in length from the front sight block to the tip of the muzzle. I think it's different from AR-15's, which is what this FH is intended for. That could mean I may not want to thread that entire area. I'll have to check around but I think it'll work. Then aga

Never tried that one. I'm deciding between an Advanced Armament Corp. Blackout or Breakout. The Blackout is a flash hider and the Breakout is both a brake and flash hider. I'm leaning towards the Blackout model for money savings and because I really don't want a brake on mine. That's just a personal choice. If you're going for all out cool factor the Brakeout would probably be the better choice between those models. They're both availible with threading for a silencer, which AAC offers as well....if you're into that sort of thing. Here they are if you're interested... Blackout

I just converted my rifle today and used a paint my father had from another project. It matched up nicely. I only painted the small bare area on the bottom of the receiver (after you take the trigger guard/plate off). Also, mine had a few chips on the barrel from the gun shop I bought it from. They must have had it on metal wall hooks or something. Anyway, the color is hot rod black and it's a lacquer aerosol. I can't remember which brand it is but I'll check and post back tomorrow. It may not be the best choice if you're going to refinish the entire rifle, but for touch up spots it's gre

Thanks for the pics Superhawk. I'm still trying to figure out what type of forearm I want. I like the factory look but I often think about the Galil style handguard too. The MP5 style is nice that it shows off a little more of the gas tube and has a similar look to the factory piece. Decisions, decisions.