gunfun
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Image Comments posted by gunfun
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It should still be in front of her face in restored configuration. I use a short WARSAW length stock on both of mine and have shot lefty. Even my big friend who always shoots lefty and said he didn't like semi tried it and changed his mind. IMO AKs are lefty for the bolt handle, and righty for the safety. A galil type safety mod would be good choice for anyone who regularly shoots left handed.
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ak builder sell one ready to get riveted in for like $10
It would take as long to order that as to make this. I find my own work looks as good and is more satisfying. I did two of these in under an hour while taking pictures. (not counting painting mine.)
Nothing wrong with going that route though. IIRC theirs is level in the safe position instead of the fire. I think the angle on mine looks better and feels better.
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Thanks CH. If you notice, I am offering to do this for a 4 more people in the PIF thread.
CH- if your safety is stiff, you need to lift it past your safety stop, rotate it down as far as it will go. Then sit on the gun and lift upward on the safety very hard, while pressing with the other hand at the pivot point Tweak back and forth as needed. My other gun needed two hands to move from the factory it was so tight. Now they are both easily moved with index finger and click at each stop. I also put a divot in the safety scratch at a mid point that is 'safe' yet allows the bolt to be cycled to charge or clear, so long as the hammer is already cocked.
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I made a How-To.. It's toward the end. Guide Comfortable Wood Goodness with a modern touch. - Tech Section - forum.Saiga-12.com
And I think few things are uglier than that grenade pad. Even counting the saw grip on this gun.
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It looks good.
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Pretty cool info. When was it done?
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Nurp freezing paintballs makes a very effective blender in your breach and that is all. They also deform from shrinkage and shoot in random directions even if they do not cause a break in the action or barrel.
But the FN303 is an effective riot weapon based of a PB gun. It uses weighted projectiles that work similarly to foster slugs. They can also be fired from a higher velocity version of the excellent tiberious T8 pistol. Further pepperballs fire out of any .68 paintball gun.
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Then you mail that lead box to me...
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My goal was to have an effective load suitable for HD/ cougars & coyotes, that was quick to assemble and cheap enough to practice with.
For HD, to achieve effective penetration, #4B needs to be moving at least 1325 FPS (Standard velocity in commercial rounds to achieve 12" FBI standard)
Even a 1 oz load can be 21 potentially lethal wound channels (depending on brand of shot), so a lighter load mass at an even higher velocity getting better penetration could outperform a heavier load of larger shot diameter, while still having lower recoil, and deeper penetration. It would also fill in that 7" circle of shred a lot more fully than the popular 9 pellet OOB load does, or even the heavier recoiling 16 pellet #1B load.
Also consider that even if say a quarter of the pellets do not penetrate to the full depth because of striking bone, etc. , that still leaves at least 16 pellets which do penetrate to full depth, and the cumulative trauma of additional pellets striking that bone. I suspect that a 23 pellet #4B load moving at between 1350 and 1400 FPS might be about the perfect HD round. High instant lethality, tight controlled pattern with no big gaps, reasonable effective range, reduced over penetration threat to bystanders, moderate recoil for fast follow-ups.
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IIRC, this load costs around 24 cents to assemble, assuming you already have the hulls.
It is intermediate recoil. Based on feel alone, I estimate the velocity to be around 1300 FPS. 22 pellets shown, but 23 fits very nicely and comes in just over my data's weight limit. Therefore, when I send a package in for testing, it will include 23 pellets and an OSC just in case I feel like it needs one for good crimps. I will share the data, once I get safety numbers back from the lab.
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Won't be the first time shooting slugs, but I will be doing much more of it, now that it costs me less than birdshot.
I am eager to get some steady sources of free lead going too.
Now if only I could get cheaper bird and buckshot than I can find at the present, I would do a lot more shooting all together.
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This pic is showing how Rem feild grade "#4 Buck" can be poured in rather than stacked.
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No prob.
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Looks unique and tasteful, but get a nice limbsaver or kickeez, fit it to the stock and ditch that grenade pad.
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You are probably the only guy on the forum who needs a breaching standoff.
Only for you , it is to keep dirt out of the bore.
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Most people look pretty ridicolous when they go to courses like that. Your pics actually make you look pretty BA.
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So those are stacked to form the baffle? Now the holes make more sense.
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If he is awaiting Jesus, why would he be all superstitious about mayan prophesies. (That the mayans didn't actually make.)
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steel fosters?
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OK, you've piqued my curiosity. What are these?
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I really don't like the trigger on LCP. It breaks in a very awkward position for me. The TCP breaks about .25" earlier, and is much smoother, which is the primary reason I have been looking at it over the ruger. Then S&W has to complicate things by making a nice offering.
I know I would want a laser on whichever I got for such a small sight radius. That's kind of a wash to me with the S&W though, because crimson trace has a nicer button location. Further if the laser on the bodygaurd dies, you're screwed.
Maybe a summer job will let me come to a conclusion about which of these is the one to buy.
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Similar disappointment with mec gar taurus 99/92 flush mags. Looked better made than factory, excellent reviews. Springs are weak and don't do well with the last few rounds.
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Is that a center balance .22 kit or what?
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Thoughts? How would you compare this to LCP or TCP?
River Rocks
in forum.Saiga-12.com Gallery
4Posted
Looks good.