BuzzKillin

Here is the thread I was referring to talking about the UTG side mount: My link

I've fired hundreds of hp through my rifle using Sure Fire mags.. would love to know that reasoning behind that as well.

I have a Laser Bore sight for 7.62x39, and I actually never ended up using it. As others have suggested, it is probably most useful to help get you on paper. If you want to sight for 100 yards, you very likely will not be able to use it anyway. Plus learning to sight it properly without a laser is part of learning to use the weapon properly. You SHOULD be able to sight it in at 100 without a laser. I THINK this is the proper way, but nobody flame me if I'm wrong: If you are not even on the paper at 100, try to set it point blank (by pulling the elevation ALL the back towards you) or put i

The UTG side mount is a much much better option than a dust cover mount (which I would consider a complete NON-option). You don't want to go that way man. I've got the UTG and like it just fine, but some have had issues with getting it to hold zero. Search around here and you'll find a bunch of info on that mount. I know someone just posted a thread discussing the UTG within the past two weeks.

UTG is the vendor. If you search UTG quadrail, or UTG side mount, you'll get plenty of info. I've never tried the Russian milspec side mounts, but they are supposed to be superior. Do a search here on the forum for "side mount" and you will pull up several discussions about it. I think UTG stands for Under The Gun, at least in the poker world it does....

I've got the same UTG quick release side mount and have been pretty happy with it. I did have to tighten the screw quite a bit BEFORE locking it into place, but once I did that, it locked up really tight.

Ok, we have had 3 clips to fail so far on the muzzle brakes.. There is no issue with the flash hiders. We are going to redesign the brake mounting clip so we are asking everyone to NOT use the muzzle brakes with the clips. We are not sure if it is a clip problem or if it is an installation problem (I'm not blaming guys who have put them on). What I mean by that is there may be some inherent stress applied to the clip when it is tightened down. We had rather be on the safe side and do some due diligence on these. We will take care of anyone who has bought one so far. I'll keep everyone updated

Ok, we have had 3 clips to fail so far on the muzzle brakes.. There is no issue with the flash hiders. We are going to redesign the brake mounting clip so we are asking everyone to NOT use the muzzle brakes with the clips. We are not sure if it is a clip problem or if it is an installation problem (I'm not blaming guys who have put them on). What I mean by that is there may be some inherent stress applied to the clip when it is tightened down. We had rather be on the safe side and do some due diligence on these. We will take care of anyone who has bought one so far. I'll keep everyone updated

Thanks man. Always a little nerve racking putting anything out for scrutiny, but so far good overall response. I totally agree that the light needs to be better. I'll keep an eye on that in the future. This one was really just off the cuff, I was about to start cleaning it and thought, what the heck, might as well just turn on the camera. Thanks for the input.

yeah, ive had the same experience with them too, but there seems to be a lot of people on these boards that bash them all to hell...not sure why. They are among the best US made mags available, but as saigafreake says, why pay $40 each when you can pay $10 for an all steel magazine? It doesn't make economic sense, any way you slice it. +1 on the quality of the SureFires. I've got two, have dropped them several times fully loaded, and nothing...

yeah, ive had the same experience with them too, but there seems to be a lot of people on these boards that bash them all to hell...not sure why. They are among the best US made mags available, but as saigafreake says, why pay $40 each when you can pay $10 for an all steel magazine? It doesn't make economic sense, any way you slice it. Main problem is in Ca. we've got our ten round limit. I've looked but haven't seen 10 round steel mags very ofter. Any good tips on that, besides moving outta Cali?

Curious, how is the correct pronunciation then??

Unfortunately, I don't own a Siaga 12. Seems almost like it should be a crime on this forum, and I don't own an AR.. yet. I promised myself that if I could keep away from the tobacco for 2 months, I would order one. Thinking Stag 2T.

Hey Juggernaut, as a super duper uber moderator and longtime Saiga junkie, please let me know if you see any big mistakes. I don't want to be passing out bad info.. think its pretty straight forward, but experienced input would be great and I'll add comments or whatever if necessary.

Hey, how did you get my girlfriend to take that pic for your avatar!!

So, I couldn't find one anywhere else that was really worth a darn, so I'm posting a 4 part series of videos on youtube about quick cleaning of the Saiga. It would be great to get a little input from people on this forum who are certainly way more experienced than I am. It was just a quick shoot, and unless I've said something very off, then I don't really want to re-shoot it, but comments on the vid would be helpful for newer users (myself included) who have less experience in cleaning their weapons. I just know that when I first got my rifle, it was hard to find any videos that could help, a

Hi Scott, and thank you for your speedy reply. Yes, I would very much like to try again with a new clip, and although I don't want to exactly be a crash test dummy (I'm sure we could find those ), I would be more than happy to give it another shot using your instructions. My only word of advise would be to include a one page sheet with the brakes, with your installation instructions and maybe some best practices as far as checking alignment. There are a lot of relatively careless non-mechanically minded people out there, and someone could potentially get injured. Should I call your office, o

Hi Scott, and thank you for your speedy reply. Yes, I would very much like to try again with a new clip, and although I don't want to exactly be a crash test dummy (I'm sure we could find those ), I would be more than happy to give it another shot using your instructions. My only word of advise would be to include a one page sheet with the brakes, with your installation instructions and maybe some best practices as far as checking alignment. There are a lot of relatively careless non-mechanically minded people out there, and someone could potentially get injured. Should I call your office, o

I'm not sure that dimpling the shroud is going to help much at all unless the dimples are very deep. You can see how the force of the recoil just tore through the shroud steel like a tiger's claw. When I took the brake off after having tightened it once, there were very good dimples in the shroud, which I aimed for when I did the final seating. If I can get anew clip from them, maybe I can cut the old piece and create a lower support piece. I suppose I should just call DPH, but I want them to see this thread. The gentleman's name is Scott?

Thanks Superhawk. I wish I had seen this post earlier. The pattern where the brake broke is exactly the same as in your picture, and as I mentioned, I had tightened it pretty well especially towards the end of the thread. Maybe I can get DPH to send me a new clip and I'd be happy to retest and repost, especially if the metal is a little thicker. I'm sure they have considered this, but it seems almost as if there should be a separate threaded piece that supports under the barrel as well, with precut holes where the 4 and 8 o'clock screws could penetrate and contact the barrel sleeve. This

Sorry to hear that. I did not know that there were any other reports. I'm still thinking of what I possibly could have done wrong during the install, and the ONLY thing that I think I could potentially have done "wrong" was to over tighten the brake when I was putting it on. It did not move all the way to the top of the thread until I applied some pressure, but then again, I did take it off one more time before loctiting everything, and it looked just fine. No sign of aberration or metal fatigue that I could see. But it could be that tightening it hard weakened the metal, but still, I have to

Ok, I'm going to choose my words very carefully here. I'm not going to vendor bash in any way, and I will be MORE than happy to admit if I've done something wrong in the installation of the brake, but I had a potentially very dangerous situation arise with the clip on DPH brake today. I'll just report what happened. I put the clip over the fsb and threaded the brake on without difficulty (it was pretty tight, but it fit just fine). I tightened the two bottom screws good and tight. I used loctite on the main thread and the two screw threads. I checked alignment as best I could and everything se

WTB: I hope its ok that I dig this one up again, but I've been through the forum history, and I didn't see anything very recent. Anyone know where you can get quality windage adjustable rear sights? I saw K-VAR had a bunch that looked just fine (the red 1000 meter variety), but they seem to be terminally out of stock on these. Also, I'm assuming that any standard AK rear sight will just click right into place, no?

Might be a silly question, but how are you guys testing to make sure that it is on completely straight??

Great write-up imarangemaster. I just got mine in the mail today, so I'm looking forward to getting it mounted. It looks like loctite is a must on the set screws and threads as recommended. I'm not sure, but it doesn't look like there is THAT much room for adjustment errors, and you obviously don't want the projectile hitting the brake on the way out! Anyone know off the top of their head how much extra space there is in the brake's diameter vs. projectile diameter? Looks like a very well made product and I'm really looking forward to checking function.