tStreets

When you said new front sight, what do you mean? New FSB or new KNS front sight post? I just bought a new KNS front sight post and wanted to know if this is what you were referring to.

I shot an AR for the first time a few weeks ago as well as an M1 and M14 (I have an awesome friend lol) and instantly got to the point of boredom because sighting with the aperture sights was so effortless. I really want to see how I do with the new front sight first and then I might be tempted to change to the aperture sight. I really feel that if I could open the rear sight up more, I can have more success aiming 100m out. I just have a hard time getting an AK to sight like I prefer which is the "lollypop" target acquisition (target ontop of the front sight). The main problem is judgin

I went back to the fat post myself, as I found myself sometimes loosing sight of the thin front post during the recoil/muzzle rise and having to locate it again. That never happens with the fat post. The Krebs piece is nice, and does give a good sight picture for more precise shooting. Once again, I gave it up for the stock setup. One problem I had with the Krebs was that I had to try three different sliders to find one that would readily slide up and down. It could just be that I got a unit that was out of whack a bit. So would you say it is worth it to upgrade the irons or

I am looking to upgrade my iron sights. On order currently is a KNS .034 diameter front (the one that is stepped, no ball atop) but I am hearing mixed things about the Krebs rear aperture. I really want to know if the Krebs aperture is: A) Still true as far as distance markings on the rear sight vs the stock ak rear sight distance markings All around better sight picture I've practice a lot with the stock irons and I think I reached my peak as far as 100m accuracy goes with the stock setup... I just want to "tighten up", ya dig?!

The cost of threading may be an issue for some, but the gas tube and retainer are not really relevant to the discussion about threading the barrel and adding a muzzle device. You want a 74 muzzle brake... trust me. There is a very noticeable difference when using one. The most noticeable is that the rifle does not flip up after shots without a brake, but rather is deflected down and to the left for a much better likely hood of a follow up shot (easier targeting in general). Plus the 5.45 looks that much more bad ass and identifiable with one. I really do not notice that much difference

Can we nuke this thread?! Crooks? This deserves a "C'mon MAN!" Opinions are like A$$holes... everyone has one.

My BP-02 has front to back play (about a quarter'ish of an inch). Does anyone else have this problem? Mine did at first. It frustrated me until I realized that I could tighten it by one more notch on the nut. It is a little harder to get on and off, and a little harder to lock it on with the arm, but now it does not move at all when in the locked position. Give it a try. Turn the nut one more increment tighter. It should still slide on with a little effort. This is right on topic lol... I am not home unfortunately. I have no idea what nut yall are talking about. I m

My BP-02 has front to back play (about a quarter'ish of an inch). Does anyone else have this problem?

Thanks for clearing that up. I understand now. Can posp 6X42D be used for 5.45 rifles? That is, will the chevrons work accordingly for distant shots as they do for 7.62 and 308?

I actually have a Nayvis 34 and secured it on a post over at AKFILES.com. I got it directly mounted to a bp-02 side mount shipped for $120. My version is strange because the red dot does not have a weaver or picatinny mounting hardware but is directly bolted to the mount with two screws. I had to add red lock-tite to the screws in order to assure full mounting. I need to get to the range to zero it in @ 100 yards. Early on I had an issue with the dot turning off from the recoil if I had to guess, but I stretched the spring that was responsible for holding pressure on the battery to the termina

So what ever happened to the Nayvis 34 red dot?

I would...

Blah... another registration. Thanks for the info though. Need to inspire myself to register and read

Hands down, I used Mississippi Auto Arms for my parts to convert my 5.45 and I think they give you the most flexibility and decent choices to make a great budget conversion. Roughly, parts for a conversion (no hand guard) + rifle+ mags+ fees + shipping should cost around $550-$600ish. Compare that to hiring someone to convert a rifle for you and you would come up saving about $200... enough for almost 2 span cans of ammo. The savings are more than enough incentive to convert on your own. Good luck with converting!

Yeah... I don't plan on mounting anything up front... Just wanted a hand guard to improve functionality to grab the rifle and not burn the sh$t outta my hand which the OEM hand guard fails to protect. Loose top hand guard is not a problem. Just not looking forward to buying a new set of parts in order to get this hand guard. I'd rather spend my money on the battery case or Samson survival kit to go in the hogue grip. Thanks for the info!

+1 on the post... Man some people don't like this handgaurd

So that means I need to get the whole kit consisting of a retainer and new gas tube... Keeps adding up! lol. Thanks for the reply. BTW, do you have the hogue grip? I saw that you can purchase a samson survival kit to stick in the bottom of the grip with all sorts of goodies. $118 MSRP though...

I am in the market for a new hand guard to replace my stock Saiga hand guard. I've been looking around and I think that this hogue grip is in the lead. Does anyone have experience with this grip? Also, would I need to buy a new gas tube to install the top portion of this hand guard onto the rifle, or does the whole assembly attach together?

Do you have to purchase a retainer in order to strap one on or does it simply clamp on? Also, would you happen to know of a "weighted" or heavier stock that could counteract the weight up front of the rifle?

I am becoming ever curious about replacing my stock hand guard and wanted to know if anyone owns this hand guard in particular? Also, what is the best remedy for a hot hand guard after shooting(i.e. what is the best replacement hand guard for this problem)? I don't shoot rapidly, but would enjoy 3-4 mags in a 20-30 minute span while the range is hot without burning the sh&t outta my hand.

I had to modify the sh%t outta my bullet guide, but that was I started to drill/tap without a proper punch. Basically I drilled too close to the barrel, causing me to widen the already drilled screw hole on the BG. Also, the BG was too high and I had to grind it down a few mM to allow the bolt to close properly and finish the paint job with high heat enamel Rust-o-leum. In essence, you should be somewhat prepared to modify the BG before you permanently put it onto your rifle. FYI, I had a dinzagarms round trunnion BG... No regrets choosing Dinzagarms BG and works amazingly once fitted right.

I was wondering what is considered a damaged muzzle crown. I noticed that where the barrel ends, the chrome is "chipped" right where it meets the "crown". Is this type of wear normal? I attached a pick, hopefully there is enough detail to see what I am talking about.

What I do is clean my rifle thoroughly after every time I use it. That entails barrel, bolt, gas piston/tube, and gas block. The gas block is by far the hardest thing to clean on the rifle, but not impossible. I use a Hopp's 9 soaked pad and leave it in the gas block for 30 minutes or so and spin it all along the walls. I'll repeat this until I see chrome on most of the gas block. If that doesn't break it, then you can scrape the carbon build up off with the flat head (cleaning) tool and swab with hopp's afterwards. Talk about anal... lolz

Reminds me of a colonoscopy... That doesn't look right.

Wait till you get home!? It's not in the trunk of your car or the corner of your office? Something wrong with this picture... I'll double check my 5.45 barrel when I get home but that looks fine. Really amazed it's your rifle. If you have any good cameras try taking as hi-def picture as you can down the barrel. No flash from the camera and a very dim light at the bore face. If the barrel ID is OK and it's key holing like that all I can think of is something horribly wrong with the rifling that'd I'd think would be obvious to the naked eye. Hence the down the bore pic req