operationlattethunder

Finally got this thing done. Did pretty much all myself, except a bit of lathe work, where I "supervised". It cycles low brass on a test fire, and it's the first SBS I've seen with the Chaos quad rail. Originally went for 11", but cross threaded the muzzle and had to cut it off and re-thread, so 10" now. Gotta fire off the amendment to my length to the BATFE. Pretty happy. Just gotta bead blast and paint. [url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/OperationLatteThunder/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_7435.jpg.html] Bad link. Sorry.

The more I think about it, I'll probably take it off the op-rod and re-contour it. After all it's only a $25 part and it's easily accessible if I need to replace it. Also, that would let me run my CSS puck and my Auto Plug, both of which are longer than the factory bits. Like you said though, I'm hoping a few others chime in.

A pic of the gap I'm speaking of:

Old thread, but the best spot for this question I think... I've got the Tromix shortened op-rod and gas tube installed, and I'm measuring and marking the barrel before I chuck it in the lathe. As I'm test fitting parts, I notice that the op-rod is still too long. With the factory gas puck and factory 2-position regulator in place, the op-rod bottoms out on the puck before the gas tube fully seats onto the gas block. It comes up about 1/16" short. Obviously something has to be shortened, either the regulator, the puck, the op-rod, or the BC where the shortened op-rod threads in. I'm le

CSS puck did the trick. Still FTE's Winchester bulk, but no problems with Federal bulk. Also got my Tac47 autoplug. I like it, done worrying about changing settings between shell types. I did have a little trouble putting it in though. Turns out that my gas block is actually drilled a little off center for the puck/plug, in the sense that it's a little close to the barre.l By the time I got the autplug all the way into the gas block, the plug had rubbed a stripe on the barrel where it took the finish off. It also seems that my gun might be just a little undergassed even though it's a 4 por

Yeah. It's no glassbolt, but I did the trigger face, bottom of the bolt that rides on the trigger, the nubs on the rotating portion of the bolt and the channel in the carrier. It's pretty smooth. *hammer face.

I understand the auto plug isn't going to change the under gassing issue. It's the fact that I forget to change the plug setting every time I switch ammo. It's a 4 port gun, and they're all clear. I'm unsure of the size though. If I decide to pull the gas block and drill the ports, what is the optimum size ports on a 4 port gun?

Well, I **THINK** I might be retarded. I threw the CSS puck in there and I'm getting ejections now, but they're pretty weak and last round stovepipes. I know that's because the next round in the mag helps with ejection, and the last round doesn't have that but of help. Progress nonetheless. The retarded bit is that I went back and watched my video a few more times, and the best I can tell those shells were black, meaning they were a box of high brass I had. I could still swear that I also put a box of low brass through it that day, but now I can't remember. Who knows. At least n

Burn... Should have kept checking. Dirty 3rds.

I thought the same thing, and I'm going to try it, seeing how it's only 2 screws. I seriously doubt it though, as the Vltor tube is actually more stable than the Tapco I originally had on it as seen in the video. I can't force any movement or flex with the new setup whatsoever. Later today I'm going to see if last night's inspection/cleaning resolved the issue, and if not, I'm going to swap the stock back and give it a whirl.

Yeah, I did that today at the range. Ran the plug all the way in, backed it out to 1. Spun 180 degrees to 2 for low brass. FTE. Spun it out another 360 degrees back to the 2 again, FTE. Didn't matter. I'm really hoping that it was the puck binding up, even though it was relatively clean. I've got a CSS puck on the way now, and I'm still on the fence for the Tac47 plug. We'll see. As well as this shotgun worked right out of the box without any break-in or polishing, it's gotta be something stupid keeping it from working.

I pulled the rails and it still stovepiped, not that I can figure out how it would affect the gas operation anyway, It doesn't bind during installation at all. It was at least worth a shot, no pun intended.

Well, all 4 ports clear. I can't feel any binding in the bolt traveling through the gas tube. The only thing I did notice is that the puck didn't drop free when I pulled the gas plug out. I know I'm going to get some fouling, but having to push the puck out with a cleaning rod seemed a bit much. Maybe there was just a bit of schmutz around the puck and it was binding up a little. Rubbed down the inside of the gas chamber with some 600 grit, as well as the puck a little bit to get rid of any burrs if there were any. cleaned it up, blasted it with some remington dry-lube with teflon(hopfully tha

I'll check the ports, but It would surprise me if that were the issue, as it worked fine, I cleaned it, put it away, and then the first round today FTE'd. Unless I clogged the ports when I cleaned it, how else could I go from successful 10rd mag dumps to not a single eject? Weird. My other concern is that when I drifted the rear sight off to fit the Chaos extended rail, maybe I bent something. After lots of inspection and sliding the bolt with no spring behind it, it seems to travel fine. Maybe I'm just paranoid now that I can't figure it out.

I was looking at the autoplug, and probably the CSS puck while I'm at it. My concern however is not fixing it, but rather figuring out why the sudden change.

Nope. Pulled the rails off, stovepipe.

I converted my S-12 and that went smoothly. First day at the range it ran through a box of low brass with all factory gas system parts in place. See? No problem. Since then the only changes I've made are the addition of the Chaos extended rail with HK sights, and a Vltor stock tube and Magpul stock. Now, It fails to eject EVERY. STINKIN. SHELL. Any thoughts?

I've read about some of the Bulgy 5.45's (Century Arms builds) having barrel issues which caused key holing. On another forum one individual fixed the issue by replacing the barrel. From what I understand, some of the CAI 5.45's were fitted with .223 barrels... just that little bit of difference (5.45 vs. 5.56) and you get those inconsistant key-holes. -ASC

Wolfie thought he was hot shit @ 2:20, waggin his tail until, uh-oh... Birdie has a buddy. Awesome video. -ASC

I just had the same issue. Hammer is all good, but the front of the trigger was snagging on the receiver. Took a 6" file to the front of the hole in the receiver. Couldn't tell I removed much of anything, but it's good to go now. -ASC

I like the classic light wood look, but I'm still leaning towards refinishing them with a dark charcoal grey stain and switching out for a hogue grip. I may buy another set of furniture from Mark if he has them to refinish in blonde, just to have them around. Also... I beat her up a little in the process, and I think I'd like to refinish the metal now that it's all together. I have access to my father's blast cabinet for stripping purposes, but don't know what method to try for the refinish. -ASC

Update: Got my goods from Mark. He is great to deal with. Tracking number in my email right off the bat, everything showed up quick, and packaging was excellent. Also got my goods from CSS. Props to Greg. I placed my order on Sunday, and then proceeded to FUBAR my lower HG retainer. Monday morning I called him and added a bolt on LHG retainer, and he went and found my order, stuffed it in the box, and it still made it here by today(Wednesday). Awesome. I've got her all put together and I'm happy with the way everything came out. I didn't paint the bottom of the receiver yet, and I

He's right. There are way more options with the 14x1 LH threads. BUT... The bulgy sight block was a breeze to install, and the spring detent is built in and locks the brake in the vertical position every time, without locktite or trying to figure out how far to thread so that your brake comes to vertical just when the threads get tight. Just my $.02. Both have their advantages. -ASC

Oh I didn't mess it up... I should have been more clear. That's why I was saying to drill from the top. It let me pop the 3 rivets from the top side, and then drill the trigger guard spot weld from the top of the cover plate, leaving the trigger guard in pristine shape. ...and I plan to jam it under the mag catch as you say. -ASC

Pics as promised... Right outta the box: My rigged gun vise. Actually worked really well: Quick shout out to Greg @ CSS for a killer instructional YouTube video: Stocks off: Drillin the stock FCG hinge pins. (you can see the zip tie on the hammer/hammer spring. that's an excellent little tidbit): Now, on this, DO WHAT THE CSS VIDEO SAYS... I see a lot of tutorials on here where folks grind and dremel the rivets off from the bottom and make a mess of the receiver. DRILL THEM FROM THE TOP. So easy, and you don't make a mess of the trigger guard, so