jhelmuth

Just FYI... I ended up buying the V-Plug. In the end, I don't think it mattered - but for me, I knew I would not be "mixing" the loads, so the V-Plug made a bit more sense. Going out to the range over the next 2 days to get herr tuned in to some different loads. (Note: I had Pauly do his magic with his Glass Bolt service)

Just sent mine off to Pauly for the Glass Bolt service. As many of you have reported about how well it makes your S12 "work" so much more smoothly and with all types of ammo and I'm hoing to see the same results. Mine worked fine as delivered, but I'm hoping to see some improvement and maybe I can reduce the gass requirement for proper cycling (which I assume is better for the S12 in the long run).

Payment completed (for forearm).... Thanks!

I'll take the forearm

The front tabs are wider, thus force distribution is more favorable & the mag's more durable. I just got 10 new AGP's and 7 of them have a front locking lug like the MD-20 and the other 3 are square all say GEN 2. What else could be the difference I thought the square ones may have come from the DIY kits but I dont know. Also didn't the follower get changed on the GEN 2's Just got my 4 too (both Gen 2). Like you, my "newer" ones (bought them here on the forum store) have a wider squared front tang, while the older Gen 2 has the narrowed sided front tang. The older one is

This debate is good (I think all debate is good) - but the point really is moot on both sides. [1] In most (if not all) real world situations, the operator would be using a single load type in a magazine (and even between mag changes). So for real application NEITHER is better than the other. Both will work equally well. [2] In a RARE case where the load were to change from low/regular power shells to 3" Mag shells, again - there is no winner between the 2 (neither will work relaibly) [3] Neither plug will solve for a BAD production gun. [4] Each plug has it's caveats [5] Bot

I personally like the Duracoat product. (this is what it should look like just prior to applying Duracoat) folowing the Duracoat instructions for prep, mix, and application I applied approx. 36 ml of Combat Black... (here is a sample o the finished product)

Nailbomb... disagree after stripping the paint. The "paint" is somewhat like a stain (very thin and black - like ink. The park remained on the reciever after stripping. It did don't strip down to bare metal... Of note: Even simple acetone and denatured alcohol took of some/most (not all) of the black color - but left the park underneath. (this is what it should look like just prior to applying Duracoat) folowing the Duracoat instructions for prep, mix, and application I applied approx. 36 ml of Combat Black... (here is a sample o the finished product)

Well.... Duracoat is complete and so far, so good. Duracoat taks a few weeks to fully harden, but it seems reasonably durrable already (after just a couple of days).

My first Saiga... I'm not done (yet) - but I will be able to go out now and shoot her to see how she performs. 2008 RAA (October) with 3 holes (larger ones) and all of them are perfectly centered into the GB opening. Going to shoot some different low brass with stock parts and we'll go from there...

Hey guys, Did some research andI believe I discovered that the Saiga has a black paint finish over pakerizing (that's the factory finish). So I followed a tip and picked up some Acetone AND Denatured Alcohol (both will "strip" the paint of a Saiga, but leave the original Parkerizing). So my observation is that it does seem to be true (am I imagining this?). There is a blackish grey finish under the very thin layer of black "paint" (which seemed to come off quite easily with either the Acetone OR the Denatured Alcohol). Can anyone confirm this? Have you done this sort

I'll show you mine once all my parts come in (for the conversion) and I complete the conversion...

I'm going to use Duracoat (Combat Black) on my S12 reciever. I want to possibly do the barrel as well while I'm at it, but I'm unsure if the Barrel temps would get too high. Duracoat is good to temps as high as 600 degrees (Duraheat extends that to 1800). Dos anyone have any real idea of how hot these barrels get under heavier sustained fire (like maybe as much as 4x 10rd mags fired as quickly as possible back to back)? I seriously doubt I'd be firing it that hard, but it might happen...

I'm about to find out just how good Duracoat is.... (going to refiinish my Saiga 12 reciever)