leadchucker

That's not too much more than the used ones I've been looking at. Thanks!

The gas blocks look different between some AK47's, AK74's and AKM's. Vent angle and all that. Looks to me like the gas tube lengths are different. And the vent holes look different too. I just want to know which ones will fit my Saiga.

I want to put an upper handguard on my IZ-132, and I don't know which gas tubes will fit it. AK 47, AK 74, or AKM? What are the differences between them?

Anybody figure out what to do with all the stuff you take off of your rifles when you do a conversion? I figure the trigger group stuff is pretty useless, but how about stocks, handguards, and gas tubes?

A side mount is what I was talking about. The side mount is the most stable place to mount a sighting device. More stable than a dust cover, unless it has radical modifications. Better positioned than the stock sight mount location. Yes, any stock side mount will be too tall. They were intended to mount a scope which would look over the usual sight line. That is where the "modifying" would come in. I'm not above putting a cheap mount in a vise, and bending it down as needed.

The main reason that an aperture sight doesn't work so well in the standard location is that it is too far from the eye. I'm not too thrilled about the Tech Sights approach to moving the aperture back though. I was thinking of buying a cheapo scope mount, cutting it down and modifying as necessary it to mount an aperture peep rear sight on. Anyone tried that? Would it work?

I hope you also have a bullet guide ordered .You'll be spending some time on the Saiga with a file before you can try those mags out.

http://www.aimsurplu...x?item=MAK47E30

I saw these surplus European, new condition, steel AK47 7.62x39 30rd mags for $9.95 each. That's the cheapest I've seen the all metal mags. I see others for $15 or more each. Anyway, at that price, I bought one. Seems well enough made, but there are a lot of sharp metal edges on it. I haven't tried to load it or shoot it yet. I don't know anything about AK mags. Are the more expensive ones any better, worth the extra bucks?

A paper plate at a hundred yards is dwarfed by the end of the standard front sight pin on a Saiga rifle. Not very precision for aiming at that distance. I was considering turning down the stock pin just a bit, making it thinner/smaller. Any better ideas to improve the sight, besides getting a scope?

That looks about the same as mine.

I may want to reload some ammo to shoot in my IZ132 later, but this thing is pretty rough on the empties. It is putting a fairly large dent in the sides of the empties as it ejects them. They are evidently hitting the dust cover when the ejector flips them out. Anything I can do to stop that?

The half-inch cylindrical stone bit did well for me, although it was a little slow. The grinder will want to jump off of the work, so use something as a steady rest for your hands while gripping the tool. A #17 or 11/64 drill bit worked nicely for me on those axis pins. It's just slightly smaller than the hole, so there's no danger of damaging the holes with it if you drill too deep. It takes out enough metal to make the pins easy to drive out.

Make you a cleaning rod out of brass, and paint it black. The factory cleaning rod will work fine, as long as you never allow it to contact the muzzle crown or the bore. Make a muzzle protector to use with it.

Centerfire Systems and Classic Arms both have them for $299 + shipping. Local FFL charged me $20 for the transaction.

Here is what I'm considering trying. If your handguard isn't drilled for the rod, drill it, or get one that is drilled. Then drill a hole in the bottom of the trunnion and tap it for the threads of the cleaning rod, or if that scares you, just install a cleaning rod retainer nut in the handguard, like what is on a Mosin rifle. Then just screw the rod into the threaded hole, just like on a Mosin. No clamp really needed on the FSB or gas block.

Duh! That's the one video I didn't watch all the way through. Works for me. Thanks!

After installing the Tapco trigger group, I noticed that the slide sticks about halfway back sometimes. The right leg of the hammer spring is slipping to the left, and is getting pinched between the back of the hammer, and the trigger/sear, preventing the hammer from being pushed all the way down by the bolt carrier. The original disconnector/escapement had a small extension on its rear side that stuck out between where the ends of the hammer spring meet, preventing the ends of the spring from slipping out of place like this. The Tapco part does not have this extension. I figured I

On a IZ-132. Is it possible with the stock (or at least modified original) handguard? The cleaning rod that came with this rifle is way too long to mount as it is. I can shorten it as needed, if I can figure out how to mount it.

I ordered the kit that was supposed to have the retainer plate in it. There was a note in the kit that said that the plate was back ordered, and would be sent in a week or so. One of these freakin' shepherd's crooks was included though. That video above shows installation of some different kind of part than this v shaped crook. Damn that shepherd's crook. It's going in the trash as soon as I can get the retainer plate.

Noob here with a question. I just got a Saiga 7.62, and I have a conversion kit ordered. The kit I ordered includes the trigger guard that bolts into the two forward holes left over from removing the trigger plate. I have seen pictures of a one-piece trigger guard/mag release housing, but I can't find any supplier that still has them. I know that installing one of those would require some extra grinding and riveting work, but that doesn't necessarily scare me. Are they still available anywhere? Is it really worth it to pursue this, or should I just be happy with the two-hole guard?