7808

Don't thread them, you want it to clamp that metal not thread into it My holes were pretty far off in my gun from the internal reciever block lining up, I had to oblong the holes in my receiver whichni wasent too happy about

mines about as done as I can afford right now

anyone know exactly why the stock hammer opposite the pivot back side that doesn't hit the pin has that notch/point to it? The guy cloned his stock hammer (found it in the let me Google the for you link above)

Thanks, ya thanks to this forum I have learned alot fast and that seems to be where everything points.. as a DIY'er I tried to search for what felt like days for info on reprofiling the hammer without much info Good thing is, the Winchester is the cheapest target ammo lol

I'll check that, thanks Drilled my ports out to 5/64 the recommended size for 4 port gun, went out with a 25 pack of fed target loads 8 shot 1145fps and Winchester 8shot super target 1200fps both 1 1/8oz Only had about 2 FTEs with the Winchester and alot with the federal Half way through both packs I swapped out my original puck for a css puck, didn't seem to make a diff, not sure it would just sayin. I didn't file my gas block, just drilled the holes, angled towards the gas block puck like it was. any ideas? Or will this gun jut not run anything below 1200fps?

I can make any length stock you want that bolts to a css reciever block, I'm 5'9 but I have long alien arms and made my self a 10.25" stock, which is still slightly shorter then a fully extended ar stock from grip back, which I find about perfect..ak tapco stock was too short for me

So I guess I'm going to pop off the gas block and open up the 4 holes with a 5/64 bit, sand my inside reciever rails with some fine paper, I have a Css puck on the way to get my parts count up too, then hopefully it cycles target loads for cheap fun

Yep

Went to the range today. 5 pack of slugs no prob 25 pack of target load 1oz 7 1/2 or 8 shot non stop FTEs, gona pull the gas block off tonight Whatever I took off the hammer seemed like I can cycle it by hand a little easier that's about all that did

Pretty sure they sell every part to do that at Carolina shooter supply

If your gun works fine now it probably will after the conversion, if it doesn't have the one side of the original hammer shaved down to clear the bolt hold open or whatever. I had a few drinks in me last night and took the grinder and some sandpaper to my Tapco hammer, we'll see if I screwed it up or not. Still have my original Anyone know how square the hammer has to contact the pin? Its pretty square but not perfect

While you have it apart swapping out the crook, go ahead and compare your new hammer with the Russian hammer. I believe that you will see a major difference, this is a very common cause for after conversion problems with cycling on a gun that functioned well prior to the conversion. I was trying to compare them on my bench today and see where the problem material is,and decide if its something I can do my self(i was told it does not require a gun smith, and also read if you take too much off its dangerous. I'm not expert, but, I'm guessing the area that needs material removed is the top whe

Oops, ya my browser was so full of tabs searching saiga related info, and I did search a little for gunfun here, I guess I didn't search very well

So the tapco fcg kinda sucks or what ?

I checked with a piece of 18awg solid copper wire, I was able to push it through all 4 ports pretty easily. I might swap out my retainer plate for the Shepard crook too, I seen that pop up a few times , then I might try it after that see if it makes a difference, probly dig in deeper after that. Tryin the easy stuff first obviously