TYBOY

Tsk tsk tsk. You really should have checked all this out before converting it. Contact Cadiz. They do warranty repair for the Saiga.. find out if you voided the warranty with the conversion. Since it is gas-block oriented and, assuming you've never had the gas block off before .. they may still cover the work. They'll get it running for you.. hopefully for no charge. Not to chastise you, but it is mind boggling to me the number of people who dig in, convert their guns and buy all sorts of aftermarket stuff before they even know if their gun works right. Form follows function, guy

I just said by taking part of the spring off (lessening the tension) on my extractor claw, my bolt closes easier. This is not debatable, I just didi it. I am aware of the fact it rotates and causes friction but you can lessen that friction by rounding the edges in your carrier and doing the spring mod. TYBOY

HEY ALL, SO I'VE BEEN TINKERING FOR AWHILE NOW. THE LAST 3/4 INCH OR SO OF THE BOLT CLOSING WAS BOTHERING THE SHIT OUT OF ME. I HAD DONE ALMOST EVERY THING MENTIONED AND STILL HAD RESISTANCE. I FINALLY CUT 1.5 TURNS OF SPRING OUT OF MY SPRING THAT CONTROLS TENSION ON THE THING THAT GRABS THE ROUNDS AND RIDES UP ON THE BARREL RAMP AND PROBLEM SOLVED. I DONT KNOW IF THIS WILL HELP MY INABILITY TO FIRE LOW BRASS, BUT I WILL FIND OUT. TYBOY SEE COBRA'S WARNING ON DOING THIS IN THE 'TUNING THE EXTRACTOR THREAD" (saw this after I posted, thanks Cobra)

benelli's have issues with certain "low recoil" ammo also. My shooting buddy has one and his will cycle some of the stuff my saiga won't (current config) but not all of it. TYBOY

Thanks for info Pauly TYBOY

FUMES and RUSTY Thanks, That what I was looking for. TYBOY

Hey all, Does anyone have any links to or helpfull tips on tuning the extractor. I have heard it mentioned for helping the bolt close easier and was wondering how well and how to do this. I hear it involves cutting part of the spring. Thanks TYBOY (yea im still lurking around here)

First off,. you guys rock on speedy delivery. I was surfing and saw your Low Brass Combo deal. It had a Puck and Spring and said you could shoot low brass with this combo as long as your gas ports were drilled right. What is the proper number and size according to you guys to function with this combo and shoot the low brass??? Also, have you had many comments or responses on customers that have purchased this??? Thanks TYBOY You guys do set the standard for customer service......

I want to apologize. This forum has alot of very helpful and friendly people willing to share alot of info. Peace TYBOY

PSL. Good for you.

I guess maybe I will Thanks for your input

PSL, I've been on this forum a little longer than you and have heard all the gas plug and spring theories. Polishing and whatnot, been there done that. There are some pretty basic things to do to this gun and people are not sharing. I'ts not about springs and polishing or break-ins, there is a simple reason these guns wont cycle low brass. Buy all your aftermarket shit and drink your Koolaid brother. I'ts a simple system and it needs more gas. The guys here with weapons that have been modified by pros know what I'm talking about. TYBOY

To All, I have been discouraged on this forum for quite awhile now. I believe that if these guns wont cycle low brass then open the ports up. I have a 4 port now with about the largest holes ( .095 ish each) and my gun won't cycle less than 3 dram shells. A picture popped up the other day of a well known modifier and it had as many hole as he could fit in there. People on this forum know how to cycle low brass effectively and are unwilling to share it, That is a fact. I will not continue to contribute money to a forum that holds information like this from do it yourselfers like me

4444, 2010, 6969 Thanks Mike, TYBOY

I will not buy any PROMAG products based on past experience's. I have been burned before and will not do it again. I do here others talking about this new drum working but it's too early to really tell in my opinion. My MD-20 works. I will have my third MD-20 shortly. TYBOY

Evilblkwpnz, HELL YAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!! You do look a little irritated. You weren't putting your dog down with those bursts were you. LOL TYBOY

I don't use WD-40 either on anything. I use the Break free as a Lube for my weapons. I do use brake cleaner to spray out my FCG and reciever after I do little filings here and there. I suggested the brake cleaner to remove the CPC film that hardens on the FCG and bare metal areas, I'm not sure if the Break Free or Break free powder blast can break down that type of CPC film. TYBOY

Rider, If you are going to be storing a gun for any length of time and don't want to worry about re-oiling those bare metal areas try this.... There are corrosion preventative compounds that you can spray on and they harden. They are less prone to just waste away like a WD-40 or some other quick spray. I would use something equivelent to LPS-3. You should be able to find a CPC that will provide a drying film to protect that bare metal at a hardware store for more of a longterm storage protection. Just spray the film off with a brake cleaner and lube with something like Break-Free p

Eric, If you have minimal thread damage try this. Find or borrow any smaller cheaper metric Tap as long as it is X 1.0 thread pitch. Place it in the Block on the threads and work it side to side following the threads. You will feel the damage. Just work the damage area slowly until the plug will go back in. The Stock plug is a little more forgiving than the close tolerance Gunfixer Plug. You may be able to do the finishing by working it with the stock plug. I used a Metric 7X1.0 that I had in the garage. Those big taps aren't cheap. This worked for me but I only had minimal thread

BUMP +2.5 TYBOY

NineRider, I guess I will settle for how the Gun functions now. It will run High and Low brass (Just not Walmart Universal Low) LOL. I will not open up the ports any more than I already have and will just replace the Hammer I screwed up. I do want to do a little more work on the feed ramp I saw mentioned before. Thanks Again TYBOY

I appreciate your input. How does a ferrous metal become non-magnetic with heat??? TYBOY When you heat ferrous metals beyond their transition point, they become non-magnetic due to changes in their crystalline structure. Sweet... Good info, I never knew that happened during that process. Thanks TYBOY

NINERIDER, Thanks I'm not meaning to come off bad. I guess what I'm trying to do is best described like this: If I was to build a Dragster, I would rather start with a V8 than a 4 Banger. I could get the 4 banger to run fast but it would take alot of add-ons. I will still have to add-on to the V8 and tune it, but it sure does make an easier starting point for the build. Thanks NineRider TYBOY

I appreciate the replies.. My goal in this thread was to just more or less hear what people with guns cycling the low to high brass had for total total port size. I figured we had alot of people on this forum that met this criteria. I have almost whipped my own issue's with the way I want my S-12 to perform. This was really to help the new guys on this form (like myself). It kind of seemed to me that you could buy every aftermarket part on this forum and might get it to work, but all of these parts seemed to be compensating for the real issue GAS PORTS. I have been on this forum fo

I appreciate your input. How does a ferrous metal become non-magnetic with heat??? TYBOY