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Found 13 results

  1. I've run into this quandary a bunch of times lately. I go buy a few tools to do a job, and I use them once. Like ever. Now, here I am again. I want to cut my .308 Saiga barrel down from 22" to 20", reface it, put an 11 degree crown on it, then thread it in 5/8x24. I'm still on the fence about moving the FSB back and repining it. I'll likely never use the iron sights, so why bother. But I'm going to end up dropping like $250 on it, then using it once. After that, it'll sit in my roll away collecting dust. I wish this site had some sort of tool exchange where we could borrow each other's tools and share the love. I'm sure there are members out there who have every tool I need, but most people wouldn't just loan tools to a guy they don't know, and would worry about damage. If we had a system where we could pay a deposit, then get the money back when we were done with the tools that would be sweet. Well, because the golden rule, I do have a die, tat, and handle for 14x1LH if someone wants to borrow them. they'd have to cover shipping both ways, though.
  2. So, my AR-180B needed to be made a little bit more evil, so I decided to cut down the integral brake and thread the muzzle for a flash hider. If you haven't seen the tool in action, I took some video!
  3. Note: This is my first post on this forum. I’ve given this idea a lot of thought. Maybe I'm not the first to do this, but I thought I’d submit it to you guys to see what you think. – Bubba Zanetti, March 2014. “Saiga Defender” Concept in 7.62 x 39 I bought my Saiga 7.62 x 39 “Hunting Carbine” at a gun show three years ago. I’ll never forget my wife’s surprise when I brought it home: “What’s this box that says $349!??” That seemed like a lot of money to her, but I knew the Saiga was substantially undervalued. Unboxed, it looked plain and non-threatening, a kitten. But I knew it retained its tiger heart in the form of the Russian made AK 100 receiver. For a time, I kept my 7.62 dressed in its black polymer pajamas, but it wasn't long before I wanted more. What to do? The most popular Saiga conversion is the “Classic AK”: the modern, semi-auto version of the rifle that would have been used by hordes of dismounted Soviet infantry as they stormed NATO defenses. Much fun & satisfaction can be had when smithing your Saiga into this tiger! Valid option, but no…not for me. I thought briefly of adding a scope and converting it to a “Scout Rifle”, but decided that’d be more fitting for the Saiga .308. What else… I’m old school, a Cold War guy with a taste for older milsurp main battle rifles and carbines. I like carbines. I have an old IBM production M1 Carbine, and it’s still pretty tight. Those .30 carbine rounds hit like a .357 at close range. Good defense against home invading Hobos, but at longer ranges .30 carbine lacks the “ass” of the 7.62 x 39 round. Inspired by my M1 Carbine, I evolved the “Saiga Defender” concept. The Defender retains the rear mounted trigger assembly, eliminating the need for a pistol grip. Wood furniture replaced the factory issue polymer stock. Wood brings the classic lines of an old-school military carbine, married with the solid “smash” capability generations of soldiers took for granted. To get this, I refinished a surplus Romanian AK butt stock and an American walnut forward hand guard. A hard rubber pad extends the butt stock an inch and gives the shooter a bit more rifle to work with. This Defender wears a heavy bolt-on muzzle break. It was not cheap, but I believe this is an excellent example of you get what you pay for. It mounts over the barrel and slides up snug on both sides of the forward sight post. A separate piece secures the brake behind the post, locked down by 4 long hex screws. It’s solid and effective. It will not come off until I want it too. Others may opt to thread their barrel and install a permanent brake – that’s cool. I like this muzzle brake. When you combine this brake with the heavy wood furniture some of the wild “jump” is negated when firing the 7.62 x 39 round. I have not yet made the bullet guide modification. This will be a summer project. Who doesn’t want to use AK mags & drums? It did wear a surplus SKS sling, but it didn't match the new wood stock. I replaced it with a 3' long brown leather cobra sling, polished the sling to match the wood grain. The Defender is meant to be fired from the shoulder, delivering US style “aimed fire” (versus Soviet volume of fire). It retains the standard AK sights, but these are “zeroed” via standard 25 meter targets simulating the 250 meter silhouette. I have swapped out the standard Saiga dust cover for a US made cover that has a built in dovetail. If you have bad eyes, you can mount an optic. I’m searching for a low profile peep sight or leaf sight that I can use with the AK forward sight post. My goal is to increase the sight radius and accuracy to mirror the M1 Carbine. (UPDATE: Will be adding Tech-Sights model AK200S sights to meet this requirement - thanks Inebriated & Think1st). My end game combines the accuracy and physical ruggedness of an M1 Carbine, with the firepower and reliability of an AK. It is heavy, defense of compound weapon. It is meant to be fired from cover at short to mid-range. Not intended for CQB (we're not clearing jihadi’s in Fallujah) but if pressed, you could swing it like a club – old school! I attached a photo of the Defender, on the bench in my workshop. What do you think? Regards, Bubba Zanetti
  4. I have the stock threaded muzzle cap off of my Saiga-12 I do not need anymore. Perfect condition, removed for flash hider. $12.95 shipped. USPS money order or PP plus 4%. x_ra_y@yahoo.com
  6. I finally knocked my .308's FSB off and found that I have a 0.670" diameter underneath it. I've read Dinzag's tutorial on the subject, which says: But, if you'll excuse what reads like a child's temper tantrum, I don't want 17x1mm muzzle threads. I want a Battlecomp like Jim Digriz. I'd at least prefer the option to use any of the many, varied muzzle devices made for the 5/8-24 threads. So here's the question, is the conventional wisdom that a 0.670" muzzle cannot be threaded in 5/8-24 just a guideline, or is it a sure thing that I'm going to screw something up if I try it? I don't have access to a lathe, nor can I be arsed to hire the job out to a gunsmith. Paying for shop time to remove two hundredths of an inch from the barrel's radius just seems profane. If 0.670" is fatally wide, can I draw file some shallow flats on the muzzle, gradually connecting them to form a polygonal profile roughly approximating a circle of the correct diameter? I envision draw filing at 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock, 9 o'clock, and 6 o'clock before rotating the barrel 45 degrees and continuing the same pattern. If I use the same number of strokes each time, I imagine the end result will be close enough to circular that the die, indexed to the barrel via TAT, will round off the vertices.
  7. Hi All, After much research through the appropriate threads it's time for me to cut the muzzle fitting off the front of my Saiga x39. From the front of the FSB to the end of the barrel it measures a tick over 1-inch. The smallest pipe cutter I Have requires a minimum of 7/16-inch to the center of the wheel. Questions I have not found answers for in my thread searches: 1. Does anyone have a "thinner" pipe cutter to recommend? 2. If I use mine, will 9/16-inch leave enough thread surface for most muzzle brakes? 3. What should I expect once I've cut to the barrel? 3A. One thread said it will "pop" ...does that mean it will then simply slide off? 3B. If there is no "pop," how will I know when I've reached the barrel... by measurement alone? 3C. Although I am pretty sure my barrel is not threaded, if it is, will the cut piece unscrew? 3D. Once the pipe cutter reaches the barrel, how is the old muzzle piece then removed? Many thanks in advance of your experienced answers!
  8. Hey, quick question folks: Does anyone know for certain what the surplus amd65 muzzle brake's threads are? https://www.apexgunparts.com/product_info.php/cPath/21_69/products_id/453 i hear the tapco extension on the rifles civies buy are 14x1 LH, and it would seem common sense that the surplus brake is threaded the same, but i do want to make sure, because i have this idea to [oh come on now, i cant tell you that.. nobody else has done this yet.. no its not going on an amd] and with those parts being 10 bucks a piece, i figure i could get a couple of them if my idea is correct. Thanks.
  9. Hello, I'm Solhays85, I'm new to this site and new to the AK platform. Ok, so I just got a new to me WASR last week and during the time of shooting about 220 rounds, the muzzle nut came off once or twice. So I ordered a Midwest flash hider with 14-1 left hand. Well, come to find out the hider will not thread, it's too large and just slides on and off. I'm almost wondering by looking at the threads, someone tapped the threads. They also seem to be pretty long, the threads go halfway into the hider. Any input would be awesome and I thank anyone taking a look. Here is a video Here is a picture of the threads.
  10. Hello, New to the forum and figured I would start out by testing the waters to see if anyone has a Chaos Porkypine available. Looking for one that is either new in the box or just in really nice shape. Will pay well for one... I see they've been going for $100 to $150. I don't mind spending $150 to $200, depending on condition. Thanks! Chad
  11. Anyone install an AMD-65 style brake on their 308? Any thoughts on the AMD brake? As I have not shot an AMD, how effective of a brake are they? I am in the process of finalizing the front end of my 308. Like most in todays economy I am cash starved and need to utilize my funds wisely. I found surplus AMD-65 Brakes for $10. While they are M14x1L thread I don't think there would be any issue moddifying it to 5/8"x24R, which is what I plan on threading my barrel to. As funds permit I plan to upgrade to either an FSC30 or Big Chubby. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
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