Displaced Yankee 3 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 Quick question. On my 7.62x39, I have the std Saiga Hand Guard with vents drilled in it and I'm looking to install the std AK looking hand guard from KVAR. I should know the answer to this but don't. Do Saiga's have a milled or stamped reciever? Should I also get the heat shield they sell for it? Thanks in advance!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kresk 10,063 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 They are stamped receivers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dinzag 31 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 Are you talking about a real set of AK HGs with the upper and lower? That's a pretty serious mod, not just a bolt on thing. Doest this mean you might be coming to see me again soon? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Displaced Yankee 3 Posted December 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 Are you talking about a real set of AK HGs with the upper and lower? That's a pretty serious mod, not just a bolt on thing. Doest this mean you might be coming to see me again soon? Well??? I guess I don't know. I checked the Tech Section and didn't see anything (unless I overlooked it) about replacing the Saiga handguard with a KVAR lower and upper handguard. Although I was looking at some stuff from Dinzag and I see he has retainer clips and gas tubes available. I guess I don't just take of the Saiga one and put these on??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 You need to get a AKM gas tube and lower HG retainer. Dinzag has these for sale. The tricky part is pressing off the FSB and gas block to install the lower HG retainer, then pressing them back on. Then you have to notch the top of the barrel for the cam lock. Some rifles even require cutting notches on either side of the barrel for the retainer. I can do all this if you want to bring her back up here again. PM me if you are interested. There's also a quicker easier way to do it but we can talk about that too if you want. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dinzag 31 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 Ah - a chance to try out the press plates Cobra! DispYank - Cobra is right, pressing, dremeling, etc... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Displaced Yankee 3 Posted December 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 I figured these small purchases would be hidden among all the other credit card purchases and my wife wouldn't know better. She would definately know when I disappeared for the day with a trip to Cobra's House!! Looks like this is one modification I'll have to pass on. I am going to get a muzzle break from Dinzag though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 LOL! Well when you get ready just let me know. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AegisDei 2 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 (edited) LOL! Well when you get ready just let me know. Can you just weld on a retainer to the saiga gas block? I know it's not quite as easy as I make it sound, but it is a valid option, right? Edited December 12, 2006 by AegisDei Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dinzag 31 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 (edited) LOL! Well when you get ready just let me know. Can you just weld on a retainer to the saiga gas block? I know it's not quite as easy as I make it sound, but it is a valid option, right? Nope, the S-12 & S-20's gas blocks sit in the right location. But the rifles and 410 have a gap between the GB and where the front of an AKM HG would be. Edited December 12, 2006 by dinzag Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AegisDei 2 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 But the rifles and 410 have a gap between the GB and where the front of an AKM HG would be. Well f**k. Hey Cobra...add another rifle to the list to work on over Xmas. PM inbound. Thanks for the info Dinzag! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 Shweeeet Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AegisDei 2 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 Shweeeet What all are the difference between milled and stamped receivers? With some minor mods, can I make milled receiver furniture fit a stamped receiver? PG? Stock? HGs? Thanks!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 (edited) Well anything can be done if you want it bad enough but it's easier to use stamped rec parts on a milled rifle because you are taking material away insted of adding it. The milled receivers are thicker. Also the milled rec stocks have a lower tang inlet milled in them. Edited December 12, 2006 by Cobra 76 two Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dinzag 31 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 The batmobile/shark gun used milled receiver furniture. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 The batmobile/shark gun used milled receiver furniture. Batmobile? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AegisDei 2 Posted December 14, 2006 Report Share Posted December 14, 2006 http://www.k-var.com/shop/product.php?prod...=293&page=1 Is that the right one? And does the Tapco gas piston fit the Saigas? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted December 14, 2006 Report Share Posted December 14, 2006 Yep that's it. I believe the other answer is yes too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hunter78 1 Posted December 25, 2006 Report Share Posted December 25, 2006 Read this on retainers. the pic I posted looks bad, it was before I cleaned it up undefined Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AegisDei 2 Posted December 25, 2006 Report Share Posted December 25, 2006 Read this on retainers. the pic I posted looks bad, it was before I cleaned it up undefined That damned FSB was darn near impossible to remove. I got it off, but wowsers did it take a lot of convincing. Now I have to tackle the gas tube next. Ugh Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted December 25, 2006 Report Share Posted December 25, 2006 Read this on retainers. the pic I posted looks bad, it was before I cleaned it up undefined That damned FSB was darn near impossible to remove. I got it off, but wowsers did it take a lot of convincing. Now I have to tackle the gas tube next. Ugh Bro do you use brute force to remove the FSB, just curios what do you going to install on the barre, I mean the original GB and SFB? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AegisDei 2 Posted December 25, 2006 Report Share Posted December 25, 2006 Bro do you use brute force to remove the FSB, just curios what do you going to install on the barre, I meanthe original GB and SFB? I'm swapping to traditional AK handguards (blond SA-85 stock and handguards) and I wanted to be sure that it looked good enough to meet people's expectations of what a Russian/Hungarian AK should be. So I'm swapping to the SA-85 gas tube (assuming it fits) and soldering+pinning on a lower handguard retainer. I originally tried brute force. I'm a strong guy, but not that stong! I heated it up with a blow torch, removed the pins (which was a challenge itself), reheated, then used a vice and a steel punch to slowly shimmy it off the barrel. I flipped the gun upside down so the vice was pushing on the FSB against the tip of the barrel and used the punch on the bottom of the FSB. I then kept vicing a fraction of a milimeter, then wailed on the bottom for a milimeter with the punch, then viced for a milimeter, then whacked. It took a while, but it worked. It scraped up my gun just a tad, but the FSB + AK-74 brake will hide the scrapes on the barrel and a black coat of paint will fix the scraps in the FSB. With the gas tube, I'll start by heating and trying to pound the gas block/tube off. But if I get too frustrated with that i may just cut the gas tube out with a dremel since I'm replacing it anyway and once it's gone, the gas block should be easier to pound out. Any suggestions from the masters? And don't say "press + press plates." I know that's the right answer, but I have neither and I'm trying to keep costs minimized. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted December 25, 2006 Report Share Posted December 25, 2006 Bro do you use brute force to remove the FSB, just curios what do you going to install on the barre, I meanthe original GB and SFB? I'm swapping to traditional AK handguards (blond SA-85 stock and handguards) and I wanted to be sure that it looked good enough to meet people's expectations of what a Russian/Hungarian AK should be. So I'm swapping to the SA-85 gas tube (assuming it fits) and soldering+pinning on a lower handguard retainer. I originally tried brute force. I'm a strong guy, but not that stong! I heated it up with a blow torch, removed the pins (which was a challenge itself), reheated, then used a vice and a steel punch to slowly shimmy it off the barrel. I flipped the gun upside down so the vice was pushing on the FSB against the tip of the barrel and used the punch on the bottom of the FSB. I then kept vicing a fraction of a milimeter, then wailed on the bottom for a milimeter with the punch, then viced for a milimeter, then whacked. It took a while, but it worked. It scraped up my gun just a tad, but the FSB + AK-74 brake will hide the scrapes on the barrel and a black coat of paint will fix the scraps in the FSB. With the gas tube, I'll start by heating and trying to pound the gas block/tube off. But if I get too frustrated with that i may just cut the gas tube out with a dremel since I'm replacing it anyway and once it's gone, the gas block should be easier to pound out. Any suggestions from the masters? And don't say "press + press plates." I know that's the right answer, but I have neither and I'm trying to keep costs minimized. Here My e-mail vjor40@bellsouth.net send me a e-mail before the you proceed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted December 26, 2006 Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 Aegis it's not like the shotgun. To take the gas tube off all you have to do is flip up the release lever on the right side of your rear sight block. Then just lift it right out. You have to have the bolt carrier and gas piston out first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AegisDei 2 Posted December 26, 2006 Report Share Posted December 26, 2006 (edited) Aegis it's not like the shotgun. To take the gas tube off all you have to do is flip up the release lever on the right side of your rear sight block. Then just lift it right out. You have to have the bolt carrier and gas piston out first. Holy hell, that's much easier than I was making it out to be! Once it's gone, whacking the gas block out ought be lot easier as well. Thanks!!! This is fun stuff, I love Saigas! Edited December 26, 2006 by AegisDei Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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