aurbis 1 Posted January 6, 2007 Report Share Posted January 6, 2007 So I pulled an all-nighter working on converting the Saiga. What a pain in the ass... (Going on hour #5) Anyways, after installing hammer, trigger and disconnector, I noticed the hammer could not be set in the cocked position. So I ground down a large hump that came in contact with the bottom of receiver and the front trigger guard bolt located above the mag latch. It cocks fine now. But the trigger/disconnector are too sensitive; as soon as I manually cock the hammer, it releases, almost catching my finger as I was pulling away from it. Even worse: when I managed to put the piston/bolt back in (was tricky as the hammer would want to keep getting in the way), and then the recoil spring, when I pulled the bolt back it would get stuck (the hammer sprung up and pushed against the bolt). It will only fire if I push the bolt foward, the hammer will instantly follow. So my question is if anyone has had experience in this, and what can I do to fix it? It is a G2 assembly from Tapco. I most likely need to grind down the trigger/disconnector or the hammer so the contact surface between them is not as slick. Also, I noticed the trigger itself sits slightly lower than it should, like it is already being pulled a tiny bit instead of being in a resting position. That could account for why the hammer releases when a breeze passes by. I have not put through any other pins besides the one to hold the hammer and one to hold the trigger assembly. Perhaps the 'backstop' pin will fix this? Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aurbis 1 Posted January 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2007 (edited) Update: Trigger is fine now. I put in the retaining plate and keeper sleeve, trigger works as it should. However, a BIG however, the gun is not functional: When I pull the bolt back to engage the hammer, the hammer is not pushed down enough in order for it to set. When I pull the bolt back, it just gets stuck on the return because the hammer is not engaged with trigger assembly. I don't know how to fix this, seems like it may require welding on additional material rather than grinding or cutting away existing material. Any ideas/experiences? Edited January 6, 2007 by hellgrün-K Quote Link to post Share on other sites
747mech 1 Posted January 6, 2007 Report Share Posted January 6, 2007 Did you modify the hammer, trigger or disconnector? On the 308, the trigger or reciever needs to be relieved for full travel. Did you install a disconnector spring? You have to harvest it from your oe fcg. Did you have a breakfast boilermaker and get some sleep? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AKOK 4 Posted January 6, 2007 Report Share Posted January 6, 2007 (edited) Is the hammer upside down/backwards ......not that uncommon of a mistake. Been there done that myself! Edited January 6, 2007 by akok Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vjor 2 Posted January 6, 2007 Report Share Posted January 6, 2007 Send it to a pro to get fix. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AegisDei 2 Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 Update: Trigger is fine now. I put in the retaining plate and keeper sleeve, trigger works as it should. However, a BIG however, the gun is not functional: When I pull the bolt back to engage the hammer, the hammer is not pushed down enough in order for it to set. When I pull the bolt back, it just gets stuck on the return because the hammer is not engaged with trigger assembly. I don't know how to fix this, seems like it may require welding on additional material rather than grinding or cutting away existing material. Any ideas/experiences? I'd suggest welding a small strip to the bottom of the bolt carrier where it runs over the hammer. It's a flat surface so it's posssible to JB weld a small strip of polished and lubed metal to it which hopefully will fix the problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pointer 21 Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 (edited) I 2nd on the hammer put in upside down. Edited January 7, 2007 by Pointer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aurbis 1 Posted January 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 I 2nd on the hammer put in upside down. I'll try the other way, but like I said, it sets fine if I push the hammer down manually, but not if I bring the bolt back. The bolt is actually held open by the hammer holding it back. Did you modify the hammer, trigger or disconnector?On the 308, the trigger or reciever needs to be relieved for full travel. Did you install a disconnector spring? You have to harvest it from your oe fcg. Yes, I modified the bottom of the hammer so there was clearance between it and the receiver when it is depressed.Yes, I got the pesky disconnector spring out and into the new trigger assembly. Send it to a pro to get fix. After $200+ (parts and tools needed), I am not gonna spend a couple hundred more just to modify the trigger assembly. Whether by welding or turning the hammer right-side up. I got myself into this, I sure as hell will fix the problem. Worst case is I buy a different trigger assembly or reuse original hammer/disconnector. I'd suggest welding a small strip to the bottom of the bolt carrier where it runs over the hammer. It's a flat surface so it's posssible to JB weld a small strip of polished and lubed metal to it which hopefully will fix the problem. That sounds good, but just more part$ and tool$ to buy. Never welded before either. Thanks for the advice guys. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AegisDei 2 Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 (edited) That sounds good, but just more part$ and tool$ to buy. Never welded before either. Yea, i wish i could get set up to weld for real. I don't have the knowledge, the money, or the equipment either. But JB-Weld is a good fall-back. It's a metal epoxy sold at home depot for $5. It's incredibly strong, resists heat, and can be sanded/ground to shape. It's a neat product. You could probably use a nickle that you file down to the dimensions of the underside of the bolt carrier and then file it into a smooth parabola that travels over the hammer. All in all, it would cost $5.05 (JB-Weld + Nickel) and you ought be good to go. Edited January 7, 2007 by AegisDei Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vermiform 26 Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 Try sticking your original hammer back in there and see if it works. I didn't have to modify my Tapco hammer to fit in my 7.62x39 conversion, nor have I heard of anyone needing to. That doesn't neccessarily mean yours did not need it, nor does it mean you screwed yours up. It could be though that Tapco sent you a bum hammer. If your original hammer works ok, then you have isolated the problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aurbis 1 Posted January 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 lol, I had the hammer in backwards. Works great now! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
747mech 1 Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 1 shot of whiskey, in a shot glass. Drop into a glass of the most available beer. Enjoy a better perspective. B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
scoutjoe 276 Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 1 shot of whiskey, in a shot glass.Drop into a glass of the most available beer. Enjoy a better perspective. B isn't that step one for the conversion? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AKOK 4 Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 lol, I had the hammer in backwards. Works great now! Dumbass.....lol....glad you got er going! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aurbis 1 Posted January 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 Crappy pics, but I'm no photographer... I think the original HG makes it looks 'chubby' I really can't wait until Dinzag finishes those AK HG no-gunsmith retainers, I have my eye on a nice set of AKM black synthetic hanguards. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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