Price001 0 Posted January 27, 2007 Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 There are 5 trigger guard rivets total. 4 in front, one in back. How did you get to the 2 foremost rivets under the ejector block? I built a notched tool to buck them but I haven't tried it yet. Is there an easier way? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Price001 0 Posted January 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 There are 5 trigger guard rivets total. 4 in front, one in back. How did you get to the 2 foremost rivets under the ejector block? I built a notched tool to buck them but I haven't tried it yet. Is there an easier way? Don't hold back!!! Still waiting... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted January 27, 2007 Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 LOL! Just got here man! Hey I ran into the same problem when I did my AKS-12 build. Check out my tutorial thread (pinned in the S-12 section) for a good disciption of what I did about it. I made a tool out of bar stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shaneman153a 39 Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 There are 5 trigger guard rivets total. 4 in front, one in back. How did you get to the 2 foremost rivets under the ejector block? I built a notched tool to buck them but I haven't tried it yet. Is there an easier way? I couldn't do it the way Cobra did, so I drilled the whole too small and tapered the rivet post, heated it up, and slammed it in. I've put at least 1000 rounds through it since then and they haven't moved. Of course it could be the barbeque paint holding them in.............. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Bbq paint lol You can cheat the two front ones definately. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Price001 0 Posted January 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 Bbq paint lol You can cheat the two front ones definately. Thanks for the input. I wanted to drive them down like the others so I fabricated a tool out of 1/2" x 1 1/2" bar stock. I cut a 5/8"x1/2" notch and did some fancy grinding. It allows you to crush the rivet without damaging the ejector block. Worked perfectly. Took less than 15 minutes to drive all the trigger guard rivets, and that's with my girlfriend helping. I did have to pay her back later : ) Looks awesome. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shaneman153a 39 Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 Bbq paint lol You can cheat the two front ones definately. Thanks for the input. I wanted to drive them down like the others so I fabricated a tool out of 1/2" x 1 1/2" bar stock. I cut a 5/8"x1/2" notch and did some fancy grinding. It allows you to crush the rivet without damaging the ejector block. Worked perfectly. Took less than 15 minutes to drive all the trigger guard rivets, and that's with my girlfriend helping. I did have to pay her back later : ) Looks awesome. Whoa Price.....there are rules here.........PICS!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
762minigun 1 Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 What front four rivits? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aurbis 1 Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 That looks good, 762minigun. Definitely the easy way out (not that there's anything wrong with that). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
762minigun 1 Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 That looks good, 762minigun. Definitely the easy way out (not that there's anything wrong with that). Easyway out ? I was trying to duplicate the TG found on the factory S-12C. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aurbis 1 Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 Well, then you done good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
inparidel 4 Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 There are 5 trigger guard rivets total. 4 in front, one in back. How did you get to the 2 foremost rivets under the ejector block? I built a notched tool to buck them but I haven't tried it yet. Is there an easier way? There are only TWO trigger guard rivets. Don't fool with the selector stop rivets, and I don't know where the other one you found comes from. ONE: in front of the trigger guard, which holds the guard to the raised front section, and TWO: the one at the rear of the guard, which after conversion will be under the PG. HAcksaw the importation cover plate just behind the selector stop. File the edge smooth and match the cover plate (back side) to meet the front of the selector stop / cover plate. Search this forum for relevant pics. It's the simplest and most looksome method--as opposed to tearing out literally EVERYTHING associated with the trigger guard, and then having to re-rivet EVERYTHING, which is not any near necessary. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Price001 0 Posted January 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 I wanted the AK look. On an AK there are 5. I drilled the 4 new front holes and the rear one is already in the correct spot. It turned out great. I installed a tapco double hook trigger group, ace folder (without the folding mechanism), and a TDI tactical grip. It looks amazing. Only thing to do it fill the old trigger group holes... not sure about that yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
inparidel 4 Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 Cool, but thhe Saiga does not get the clasic AK rifle rivet group anyway. Just do as I said and you will be on a clasic Saiga 12 look. Either way, dude, looks GREAT! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whatmanual 44 Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 Well done. Learning a lot from this forum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted January 31, 2007 Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tomovich 0 Posted February 3, 2007 Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 That looks good, 762minigun. Definitely the easy way out (not that there's anything wrong with that). Easyway out ? I was trying to duplicate the TG found on the factory S-12C. Did the same thing on mine. Factory job. Three rivets only and a LOT less work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bugeye 2 Posted February 3, 2007 Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 You guys are such craftsmen! I took the shit bird easy way out. When I did my conversion I went with the two hole trigger guard. I put a bolt in the rear of the trigger guard so I would have the hole under the mag catch just right. As I started to drill I realized that the trigger guard was in pretty dang tight as is. So I stopped drilling and just left the edge under the mag catch and put a dab of lock tight on the rear bolt. So far its still tight as a tick and that left me some more room near the hammer to put that damn bolt hold open back in. Beautiful pistol grip Cobra and the mag catch is one of a kind. That photo does not do it justice. Since I am addressing craftsmen here.....what is the secrete to putting the BHO back in? That was the hardest part of the conversion. I put the trigger in first and then put the hammer in but that seems backward. There has got to be an easier way! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted February 3, 2007 Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 I think I spelled that out pretty well in my tutorial. Check that out. The dental floss method works well for some. i've done it that way and using a popsycle stick or screwdriver. If you go ahead and get your axis pin almost ready to push all the way thru and stop just at the edge of the sleeve, you can push the bho spring down and hold it with something small from the outside of the hole while you push the axis pin all the way in and up against the receiver wall. At this point the pin is holding the spring and you can just grab the trigger and rock it in place to push the pin in. All that will make more sense after you do a few of them...lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted February 3, 2007 Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 BTW thank you Duke and I think you meant selector stop... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G O B 3,516 Posted February 3, 2007 Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 I have an unconverted S-12 that I put Makc's BHO in. I use a pin punch from the right side of the reciever to hold the BHO and spring, and push it out with the axis pin from the left after putting the trigger in. I use a ty-wrap to hold trigger and spring together and cut it when done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bugeye 2 Posted February 3, 2007 Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 BTW thank you Duke and I think you meant selector stop... Yes sir...Cobra, I do indeed mean the selector stop. The little Skull....or is it a Cobra head?? The photo does it no justice! Does anybody use the notch on the selector switch for their bolt hold open device? Any opinions? My son carefully counts his rounds, when he fires his last round he puts upward pressure on the BHO selector and the selector (Usually) stays open for easy mag changes. Always trying to show up the old man! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bugeye 2 Posted February 3, 2007 Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 I think I spelled that out pretty well in my tutorial. Check that out. The dental floss method works well for some. i've done it that way and using a popsycle stick or screwdriver. If you go ahead and get your axis pin almost ready to push all the way thru and stop just at the edge of the sleeve, you can push the bho spring down and hold it with something small from the outside of the hole while you push the axis pin all the way in and up against the receiver wall. At this point the pin is holding the spring and you can just grab the trigger and rock it in place to push the pin in. All that will make more sense after you do a few of them...lol. Ah my friend I did read your tutorial front to back and back to front. Couldent have done the conversion without it! Wouldent have even tried! Tried it your way and for some reason I could not make all 10 of my thumbs make it happen. So I put the trigger in first and then put the hammer in and that was an ordeal as well. But....... Improvise, adapt and overcome...right? Appreciate everybodys help & advice though! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted February 3, 2007 Report Share Posted February 3, 2007 BTW thank you Duke and I think you meant selector stop... Yes sir...Cobra, I do indeed mean the selector stop. The little Skull....or is it a Cobra head?? The photo does it no justice! Does anybody use the notch on the selector switch for their bolt hold open device? Any opinions? My son carefully counts his rounds, when he fires his last round he puts upward pressure on the BHO selector and the selector (Usually) stays open for easy mag changes. Always trying to show up the old man! Yep it's a skull. The next one's gonna be a cobra though. You can click on the picture to enlarge it. On my browser you can then click again in the lower right corner of the image and enlarge it again. Are you talking about the selector with the BHO notch that RSA and Blackjack sell? If so that sounds scary trying to time it with the last shot. Now on a regular factory BHO you can hit the button while firing to grab the bolt and hiold it back at any time. Works great for a LRBHO if you count em down. I found some more pics I had saved of TGs I've done. The black one shows the basic way I usually do them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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