rocinante 100 Posted March 29, 2007 Report Share Posted March 29, 2007 I got the sucker all torn apart without nary problem. I used a dremel grinder on the rivets and weld from the inside and it was easy. For me any way the challenge is going to be putting it back together. Just don't have a puzzle gene sorry. I remember discussion of modifying the tapco hammer. Now as far as I can tell it looks exactly like the saiga hammer except the right side of the hammer on the saiga is ground down to almost a point. a v shaped. Oh yeah I am good at word pictures. Can I just use the saiga hammer if I am not too concerned about the stormtroopers? I also remember some discussion about the tapco missing a notch for the bolt hold open but both have a notch on them. Anything else I need to attack with my dremel? One guy said open up the right side of the trigger hole slightly but to me it looks okay. If so any photos? I have not seen any step by step or photos for reassembly and no real discussion of problems except swearing about getting the bolt hold open spring in right. I attribute this lack of detail to it being so simple not worth writing but could someone point me to a thread or resource where they cover this explicitly for the dummies? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted March 29, 2007 Report Share Posted March 29, 2007 All you have to do to the hammer is grind the big hump off the front at the bottom and take about 1/16" off the RH side of the axis to make room for the BHO lever on the same side. Use your factory hammer as a reference. I would not recommend mixing parts in FCGs period. I'm not sure what "notch" you are talking about for the BHO but all you have to do is what I said above. You will also need a disconnector spring. You can use one from an AK or drill out the sleeve in your factory fcg and rob that one. If you have one of the newer G-2's you shouldn't have to mess with the trigger hole, Tapco fixed that problem. Another solution for the older ones is to grind the trigger itself where ever it's hitting the hole in the receiver. Basically that's what they did on the new ones. See this link for all out overly detailed insructions for dummies. With over 17,000 views since I wrote it 2 years ago this month, it must be helping someone... http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=5178 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rocinante 100 Posted March 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 (edited) Well head hisser I did make sense of most your instructions and photos BUT I did not get a 100% understanding. So I am not as smart as a 5th grader. I would usually saay so shoot me but you guys are armed and maybe take things too literal So help me out. please. I'll beg if it helps. This is cut and paste from the tutorial. Then I noticed the Hammer on the new FCG has a big hump on the bottom front that I had to grind off so it would clear the reinforcement bar in the rec. Gotcha. My boy thought all those sparks flying was cool. I did too until I noticed I burnt a small hole in my shirt. hide the evidence from the mama. Also had to take some off the right side of the hammer where the axis pin goes through so it would fit in with the BHO lever and still allow room for the axis pin retainer spring or shepard's crook. LOST! Comparing the wings of the original and the tapco they are a lot different. Should I shape the right wing to match the saiga original? It has a wedge angle from the base of the wing to the tip. The right wing also a slanted notch on the front. I do have a factory BHO. Likewise I had to take a little bit off the right side of trigger pin sleeve too. grasped that too boss. Ground it down until it was the same length as the saiga original Edited March 30, 2007 by rocinante Quote Link to post Share on other sites
keyser223 0 Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 I didn't do anything to the "wings" on mine as the new hammer was designed to work that way with the rest of the fcg. I haven't had any clearance problems and it funtions perfectly. I just grinded down the hump and I was done. I didn't have a bolt hold open to have to cut the axis pin hole for. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bugeye 2 Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Why dont you put the hammer & trigger in the weapon and see if it works. Its easy to take out and put back in. Now, dont be like dumb a$$ me and put the hammer in backwards. Its easy to do and it looks OK. It will even lock into the trigger with your thumb BUT IT WILL NOT COCK USING THE BOLT! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bugeye 2 Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Why dont you put the hammer & trigger in the weapon and see if it works. Its easy to take out and put back in. Now, dont be like dumb a$$ me and put the hammer in backwards. Its easy to do and it looks OK. It will even lock into the trigger with your thumb BUT IT WILL NOT COCK USING THE BOLT! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jaak 0 Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 (edited) follow this link, it will show you EXACTLY where to cut... DO NOT FOLLOW THE TRIGGER CUTTING DIRECTIONS IF YOU HAVE A G2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! please make sure to listen to that part... G2 trigger doesnt need to be cut, just the hammer forgot the darn link http://www.gunsnet.net/forums/showthread.php?t=216631 Edited March 30, 2007 by jaak Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rocinante 100 Posted March 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 follow this link, it will show you EXACTLY where to cut... DO NOT FOLLOW THE TRIGGER CUTTING DIRECTIONS IF YOU HAVE A G2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! please make sure to listen to that part... G2 trigger doesnt need to be cut, just the hammer forgot the darn link http://www.gunsnet.net/forums/showthread.php?t=216631 Thanks all for the feedback. The only mod he does to the hammer in that thread is to take the hump off. I did that and shortened the right side of the pivot too per Cobra's instructions. Good thread though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra 76 two 2,677 Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 follow this link, it will show you EXACTLY where to cut... DO NOT FOLLOW THE TRIGGER CUTTING DIRECTIONS IF YOU HAVE A G2!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! please make sure to listen to that part... G2 trigger doesnt need to be cut, just the hammer forgot the darn link http://www.gunsnet.net/forums/showthread.php?t=216631 Thanks all for the feedback. The only mod he does to the hammer in that thread is to take the hump off. I did that and shortened the right side of the pivot too per Cobra's instructions. Good thread though. Then you are done. You don't have to touch the wings Now put it all in and see if the trigger hangs up in the receiver. If it does then relieve it where it hits the edge of the cutout. If it is hanging it will be in the front right corner across fron the single small cutout in the opposite corner. It may also hang in the middle of the front part of the trigger cutout. That's the best I can do with the word puzzle. You dig? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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