tapco g2 trigger

[beast556 0]

W@hats up every one I just had a quick question. Ive seen on some of the other members posts they had to modify the g2 trigger to fit, Is this true just want to know what im getting in to. By the way I have a pistol grip conversion done already. I just need to find a trigger to be done. Any thoughts on the k-var arsenal usa trigger thanks for an info.

[wlnt 2]

W@hats up every one I just had a quick question. Ive seen on some of the other members posts they had to modify the g2 trigger to fit, Is this true just want to know what im getting in to. By the way I have a pistol grip conversion done already. I just need to find a trigger to be done. Any thoughts on the k-var arsenal usa trigger thanks for an info.

 

Saiga's are made with a one hook trigger. If you look at the trigger slot in the receiver (where the trigger passes through the bottom of the receiver and into the trigger guard) you will see a rectangular box. In that box one of the corners has a slot that extends about 1'/8 th of an inch beyond the box itself. This means it can accept a one hook trigger with on further modification.

 

I would buy the G2 Tapco trigger group with one hook trigger for $39.99. You should also get the retainer plate (for 11.95 I think) and that will save you a lot of headaches.

 

 

You say you have the conversion done except for the trigger, have you changed the hammer yet? If you have not changed the hammer you will need to and the hammer also has to be modified.

 

 

louielouie

Edited May 14, 2007 by louielouie

[quinci956 1]

W@hats up every one I just had a quick question. Ive seen on some of the other members posts they had to modify the g2 trigger to fit, Is this true just want to know what im getting in to. By the way I have a pistol grip conversion done already. I just need to find a trigger to be done. Any thoughts on the k-var arsenal usa trigger thanks for an info.

 

The Tapco double hook trigger works very well and feels good once you make the minor modification to the frame. I prefer the Power Custom SAR3 trigger from Brownell's (part #713-00-016). Yes it cost a little more $84.99 but it drops right in on the 7.62, .223, and S12 without having to modify anything. It is a two stage/single stage adjustable trigger. I have them in my rifles and shotgun and love them. I put the Tapco double hook in one of my S12's and found that for all the extra work it was not worth it for me. The hammer can be purchased seperatly for about $20.00 if you convert an S12. I had to grind my hammer but that made the metal softer and I have noticed that it is getting dimples in it where it strikes the firing pin.

[JK-47 33]

I had to grind my hammer but that made the metal softer and I have noticed that it is getting dimples in it where it strikes the firing pin.

 

I'm guessing either the heat of the grinding altered the temper of the metal, or the part was case hardened, and so you've ground the hardest part away leaving the softer metal exposed.

[quinci956 1]

I had to grind my hammer but that made the metal softer and I have noticed that it is getting dimples in it where it strikes the firing pin.

 

I'm guessing either the heat of the grinding altered the temper of the metal, or the part was case hardened, and so you've ground the hardest part away leaving the softer metal exposed.

 

I'm told there is a way to re-harden the metal but I have not really looked into it.

[wlnt 2]

I had to grind my hammer but that made the metal softer and I have noticed that it is getting dimples in it where it strikes the firing pin.

 

I'm guessing either the heat of the grinding altered the temper of the metal, or the part was case hardened, and so you've ground the hardest part away leaving the softer metal exposed.

 

I'm told there is a way to re-harden the metal but I have not really looked into it.

 

I know you could temper the metal using one of those pocket butane torches, but you would have to know what color to heat to, before you plunged it into an oil bath.

 

louielouie

[beast556 0]

Thanks for all the info guys, after I checked out what fcg are avabile I think im going to go with the k-var arsenal usa fcg its only 44 dollars and the hammer dosent have that hump on it. Im no gun smith by any means and I hate messing with trigger parts I just dont want any accidental discharges.

[vjor 2]

I have use Tapco and FSE FCG

 

Hey, I have rework the tapco to acept the bolt carrier stop, but the FSE dont need it

plus the feel on the trigger itself is a lot nicer than the tapco.

 

With all my triggers I can feel when it is going to brake, but with the FSE is easier

to make it that way, like that you can feel when it stops and ready to brake.

 

I usually use single hook the less metal to metal contact the best for a nice

smooth brake.

 

Hey simple comes, polish the ear on hammer were the trigger claws touches it

and the polish claw on trigger were it touches the ears on the hammer, if you can polish

it to mirror like, the pull is going to be nice and smooth.

 

By the way the FSE are like 35 bucks a FCG, but may be they when up on price.

Edited May 15, 2007 by vjor

[JK-47 33]

I belive these are FSE trigger groups, RPB INDUSTRIES though I'm not 100%. does anyone know if the ak47 or AKM trigger group is a better choice than the other for saiga>?

Edited May 15, 2007 by JK-47

[vjor 2]

I belive these are FSE trigger groups, RPB INDUSTRIES though I'm not 100%. does anyone know if the ak47 or AKM trigger group is a better choice than the other for saiga>?

 

The AKM is single hook, the AK is double hook.

 

Simple AKM stamped receiver, single hook.

 

AK milled receiver, double hooks.

 

 

Same with the nuts for the pistol grip

the ak nut is a little bigger and have to be reworked to fit the saiga

the AKM nut will fit the Saiga receiver no problem at all.

Edited May 15, 2007 by vjor

[Outlaw 0]

So let me get this straight. The Tapco G2 trigger group needs modification to function in a Saiga 762x39 and the FSE trigger group does not need any modifications to function in the x39?

[wlnt 2]

So let me get this straight. The Tapco G2 trigger group needs modification to function in a Saiga 762x39 and the FSE trigger group does not need any modifications to function in the x39?

 

If you want to keep the BHO (Bolt Hold Open) feature on your Saiga rifle, then you will have to mill, grind, file, chew, about 0.040-0.050 inch off the side of the hammer that shares the retaining pin with the BHO.

 

If you don't reinstall the BHO (pain in the ass to install but worth it to me) you won't have to modify the G2 Single Hook trigger group.

 

louielouie

[Outlaw 0]

So let me get this straight. The Tapco G2 trigger group needs modification to function in a Saiga 762x39 and the FSE trigger group does not need any modifications to function in the x39?

 

If you want to keep the BHO (Bolt Hold Open) feature on your Saiga rifle, then you will have to mill, grind, file, chew, about 0.040-0.050 inch off the side of the hammer that shares the retaining pin with the BHO.

 

If you don't reinstall the BHO (pain in the ass to install but worth it to me) you won't have to modify the G2 Single Hook trigger group.

 

louielouie

thanks for the help louielouie. I forgot to add that I will not be converting to pistol grip. I'm going to keep the sporter configuration but modify it to take AK mags. Any trigger group help for this config. appreciated.

[JK-47 33]

I've got confirmation that these are indeed FSE fire control parts: http://www.gunmallusa.com/gunmallusa/prepa...p;storeNumber=1 . If you want to do a sporter-conversion you would most likely add the three FCG parts and either a piston, or followers or floorplates. I would recomend the piston. To get the FCG to fit, you will need to remove the actual trigger from the trigger part. sounds confusing, but is fairly simple. Dinzag or BRG3 can do it for you for a fee. here is a rough example of what you need to do, cut along the red line and discard the part below the red line.

This website shows how to do a pistol grip conversion, but it will help give you some idea of what the guts of the saiga look like: http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/ you will be removing pins, but DO NOT drill out those two rivets that the cross-conn guide starts with! You need to keep those intact, since I've not seen or heard of a good replacement for them.

 

DO NOT do this:

Edited May 16, 2007 by JK-47

[Outlaw 0]

I've got confirmation that these are indeed FSE fire control parts: http://www.gunmallusa.com/gunmallusa/prepa...p;storeNumber=1 . If you want to do a sporter-conversion you would most likely add the three FCG parts and either a piston, or followers or floorplates. I would recomend the piston. To get the FCG to fit, you will need to remove the actual trigger from the trigger part. sounds confusing, but is fairly simple. Dinzag or BRG3 can do it for you for a fee. here is a rough example of what you need to do, cut along the red line and discard the part below the red line.

This website shows how to do a pistol grip conversion, but it will help give you some idea of what the guts of the saiga look like: http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/ you will be removing pins, but DO NOT drill out those two rivets that the cross-conn guide starts with! You need to keep those intact, since I've not seen or heard of a good replacement for them.

 

DO NOT do this:

Cool. Those pics. helped. Now do I have to do any other mods for the BHO to work?

Why do you recommend replacing the piston?

I was thinking of just US made furniture and FCG for my conversion.

[JK-47 33]

furniture and fcg will work just as well as a piston and fcg. I recomended the piston because there are plenty avaliable and often 10-20$ each, furniture is often custom and will cost a bit more. I don't think the BHO will need to come out, but you may need to file down part of the hammer to fit next to the BHO.

[wlnt 2]

I've got confirmation that these are indeed FSE fire control parts: http://www.gunmallusa.com/gunmallusa/prepa...p;storeNumber=1 . If you want to do a sporter-conversion you would most likely add the three FCG parts and either a piston, or followers or floorplates. I would recomend the piston. To get the FCG to fit, you will need to remove the actual trigger from the trigger part. sounds confusing, but is fairly simple. Dinzag or BRG3 can do it for you for a fee. here is a rough example of what you need to do, cut along the red line and discard the part below the red line.

This website shows how to do a pistol grip conversion, but it will help give you some idea of what the guts of the saiga look like: http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/ you will be removing pins, but DO NOT drill out those two rivets that the cross-conn guide starts with! You need to keep those intact, since I've not seen or heard of a good replacement for them.

 

DO NOT do this:

Cool. Those pics. helped. Now do I have to do any other mods for the BHO to work?

Why do you recommend replacing the piston?

I was thinking of just US made furniture and FCG for my conversion.

 

 

Outlaw,

If you want to keep the BHO (Bolt Hold Open) feature on your Saiga rifle, then you will have to remove about 0.040-0.050 inch off the side of the hammer that shares the retaining pin with the BHO. The reason for this is the width of the BHO in the original Saiga FCG is already included. When you remove the BHO and leave the original FCG you create extra hammer play (from side to side).

 

When you install a hammer from a different source (like G2) the new hammer does not have the extra clearance in width where the retaining pin passes through the hammer and seats in the receiver. This means to add the BHO you have to remove the width of the BHO (measured at the end of the BHO that has the hole in it for the retaining pin to pass through) from the new hammer.

 

In other words take a caliper and measure the distance from one end of the hammer (where pin enters) to the other end (where the pin exits the hammer). The width on the Saiga hammer is approx. .035-.050 inches less than a new G2 hammer. To add the BHO with the new hammer you must remove the difference between the two hammers = approx. .035-.050 inches from the end of the new hammer.

 

Make sure you remove material from the side of the hammer that seats against the BHO. The other end of the hammer has been "relieved internally" to allow tapered end of the retaining pin to seat in it.

 

Hope this helps. Also, re-installing the BHO is a @#*^%%&^..

If you do want to add it, just email me and I will give you the list of topics that tell you how to compress the BHO spring when installing it.

 

louielouie